Leader Or Not, Where, When, How Long

[silvercliff_46]

I fish mostly shallow water slop, wood, or docks. Almost all my rods are bait casters, and not the ones where you can easily change line. About a year ago I had a discussion on the board on whether to use a leader. The consensus was, yeah it did seem to add a fish or two at the end of the day.

Okay I'll buy it. I would like to know if I am using 50 pound braid what should I use for a leader. How long should the leader be...,when I am flipping, skipping, when I go to the weed edge (not to often) and use a crank bait. I really don't need it in the slop or do I ??????

FYI - I have an extra heavy flipin' stick and half dozen bait casters all med. heavy to heavy action, most in the 7 foot range. I have one spinning rod med heavy action 7 foot, I use to skipping, it also has 50 pound braid on it.

Oh yeah I also have some of the Storm swim baits. They weigh a ton but I have some folks say they get good results with them. How about those do I use a leader.

Just for clarification I'm talking floro or mono leader not wire. That is not facetious either, we have plenty of large pike and musky around.

[nvhsaccel]

What's the water clarity like? If the water is really murky, then a leader is not necessary. But if it's clear than a leader 2-4 ft tied with an Albright knot is the best.

[ROCbass]

There's two reasons why I use a leader with braid: Abrasion resistance around rocks, and (in)visibility in clear water. Up until last year I only used mono for leaders, but last summer I started experimenting with fluoro leaders in 8# for spinning gear and 12# for casting gear. I usually tie relatively long leaders, like 6-7'. This way I can change lures or trim and retie damaged line several times before I have to tie another leader, which I do when the leader gets down to 12-15" or so. If I'm drop shotting, I'll tie an even longer leader, like 10 feet or more, to account for the long tag end going to the weight from the hook.

[silvercliff_46]

nvhsaccel I'm going to say water clarity runs from Tannin (brown stain not dirty) seepage lakes in the forest, to partially stained in the flowages. Nothing pea soup, like I have seen in the tounaments down south.

ROCbass you really peaked my interest. I started using 50lb super braid because of abrasion, your conclusion is that floro stands up better to that the braid?

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Zebra Mussels and braid don't mix. A relatively heavy fluoro leader will work in mussel beds. I don't find normal rocks or wood to be especially abbrasive on braid. I think a leader should be at least 18" to have any affect. I usually use 2-3 feetof 15 or 20#. I'm not 100% sold on line visibility. I think line diameter and the vibration put out by it is more important in finesse fishing, but I sometimes throw on a long leader of 8# if the water is gin-clear.

[B@ssCrzy]

There's two reasons why I use a leader with braid: Abrasion resistance around rocks, and (in)visibility in clear water. Up until last year I only used mono for leaders, but last summer I started experimenting with fluoro leaders in 8# for spinning gear and 12# for casting gear. I usually tie relatively long leaders, like 6-7'. This way I can change lures or trim and retie damaged line several times before I have to tie another leader, which I do when the leader gets down to 12-15" or so. If I'm drop shotting, I'll tie an even longer leader, like 10 feet or more, to account for the long tag end going to the weight from the hook.

x2...except I still use only mono. Like to tie long leaders so I can switch out lures all day and not have to take the time on the boat to tie two lines together. I firmly believe that it makes a difference in how many fish get in the boat.

[3assmaster]

I always use a fluorocarbon leader attached to my main braid line. I typically use 50lb Power Pro attached to 36" 15lb Seaguar Premier leader. I fish very clear shallows with heavy cover, brush and tree bark and have found this setup to work very well.

The problem I do have is that I only have 2 combos, and depending on the conditions and how the bass are biting, I'm often changing leaders and bait setups. Does anyone here use some sort of quick release swivel to connect their main to the leader? It would make things so much easier for me, as I often fish off a kayak and hate having to tie knots on the go. I'd love to be able to have a few different leaders setup and be able to quickly attach them by a quick release swivel.

[silvercliff_46]

Interesting discussion here, thanks for the info. I'm pretty used to tying one line to another, as I have been tying my own trout leaders for years. I guess now I just need to figure the right combination for my fishing.

[Jaheff]

I like to run a leader an inch ahead of my reels line guide, to the top tip of my rod.

[Catt]

If you are fishing vegetation regardless of water clarity a leader is not needed

For those who believe bass can see your line just what do they "think" it is?

[Stasher1]

If you are fishing vegetation regardless of water clarity a leader is not needed

For those who believe bass can see your line just what do they "think" it is?

I find this interesting as well. Bass are afraid of fishing line but they're not bothered by the treble hooks swinging from the underside of a jerkbait?

[Bassn Blvd]

If you are fishing vegetation regardless of water clarity a leader is not needed For those who believe bass can see your line just what do they "think" it is?

Maybe they'll listen to you. I have been saying this until I'm blue in the face but people still use a leader. What I don't understand is this. Someone uses 50-70 pound braid for flipping and then goes ahead and ties on a lower pound test leader. Think about it- you use heavy braid to horse the fish through and from cover but add an extra knot and lighter leader? And I'm really stumped when I see people tying on 6-10 foot leaders to their braid. Why even use braid?

[SirSnookalot]

I'm kinda with Bassn, if someone uses a leader weaker than their main line they have reduced the overall strength, seems pointless. I guess this is why I'm not a "real bass fisherman", no way in the world am I going to horse a 3 or 4# fish thru heavy slop using equipment I could catch an amberjack with. It may be one thing to land a fish super fast if in a tournament, but being a recreational fisherman I'm there there for the fight, and if Iose a fish........so what, it won't be the first or last. I hate fishing slop and try to avoid it, but when I do a 7' 8-17 spinning rod with 15 or 20# braid and 20# leader is plenty of horsepower. If I'm fishing slop I'm fishing plastics rigged weedless, if I lose a setup it's a hook and a bait, not like losing a $20 lure. If my average bass were to be 5-10#, which they ARE NOT, but more like a pound or so, then I would use heavier gear. Being what it is I'm overpowering the fish now.