Effects Of Cutting An Existing Rod Down In Length

[Lucky Craft Man]

Say you had a store bought Medium Power, Fast Action Rod that measured 7' in length and you removed the handle and the reel seat, cut about 3 inches off the butt section of the blank and reassemble the reel seat and cork handle (maintaining the same rear handle length as before). What would that do overall to the action and power of the rod? I assume it would tend to make it a Mod.-Fast Action rod now, but would it do much to the power?

[Tony Monticelli]

oooooooooooooo this is a mouth full.

not saying it will do nothing because it could have a big affect or none at all.. considering your cutting 3" and thats below the reel seat? more or less you will not see a difference at all. you will get the bigger difference from the real seat now moving up the blank 3" because more or less the action starts there. i don't think your going to get what your looking for by doing so and if you did its at a point where its not worth it and more on that below.

first off how you going to save the handle and reel seat and not damage the blanks integrity.. boil it NO WAY you heat that blank and thats it and sitting it in hot water long enofe to break the epoxys hold NO your going to heat the blank... you see great ideas like that and stuff online and on rod building forums. but after saying soak in hot water they also say pull it strait off dont twist the handle or you will damage the blank well if twisting it will damage it the the integrity is already damaged...

if you want to save the handle BOIL it. but even then you still might not be able to save it all, the cork might fall apart becuase the rings are just glued together or the grip id will be to big for its new location etc,, most factory rods the grip fit is poor anyway and they build it up with cardboard or something, there not fitting these things perfect there down and dirty assembling them but the reel seat might be worth something i snagged reel seats off old rods sale rods before cuz i liked them.

if you want to save the blank cut the handle off with a really dull stiff knife eva or cork it all cops of in under a min nice and easy but your not going to re-use it... then flash cook the reel seat real fast with a blow torch, doing so your only heating the reel seat and then wearing a glove twist and pull twist and pull off if it doesnt go give it another flash cook and twist and pull, the blank is not damaged because you never heated the blank just the reel seat and it doing so just the epoxy bonding to the reel seat is weaken and the blank is in perfect condition because you never heated it at all... but one thing for sure your not going to re-use the reel seat unless its aluminum.

if you boil it for 10 min your heating everything in the water equally including the blank and yea well there ya go throw the rod in trash

if its a wood insert seat chip and crack the seat off with a chisel and remove the hardware with the torch method

if its a skeleton seat probably just a fast hit with the torch to just the hardware being careful to no let the flame wave near the blank i mean aim it like a gun and just shoot the hardware probably be better to use a small pocket torch if your not used to using a real torch for those skeleton things... try though at first to see if you can work it off without any heating, depending on the person who assembled the rod it might not take much more than a few mins of elbow grease..

so now you need a handle and reel seat... lets say $20 now plus shipping and that's a good price you can pay more allot more for a handle, the one you have will probably cost more to replace if you want the same one... so now you total $30 plus all that work and stress i just put you threw and you could have went to bass pro and for the extra $30 you would have a whole new rod that fits the action your looking for.

[tomustang]

To sum it up, your cuttin the backbone, not the top, so action won't be affected but the length the backbone can pull on will take more load

[smalljaw67]

I don't know what affect it will have but I can tell you this, no matter what you do, you can't change a fast action graphite rod into a moderate fast action. A moderate action graphite rod is done using different materials and tapers, thats why you see a resurgence in glass rods as blank makers can only make a graphite rod so soft, I think Falcon rods have the most moderate action blanks for graphite rods.

[Crookedneck]

A question like this is hard to answer as there are no real grading systems from one blank manufacturer to the other on power and action.

to answer your question on this specific blank move your hand position up the rod 3 inches to get the feel of it.

I do not believe that you are going to make the rod a moderate by cutting 3 inches you may see a little bit of a difference. It will be minor when it comes to action I would believe.

You will probably see a bigger difference in the power but even that will be slight with only 3 inches. By trimming the butt you will see the power drop more towards a medium light (not saying it will be a medium light) if you were to trim the tip you would be moving more towards the heavy side.

Now again let me restate that it is all relative on the maker and construction of the blank.

My question is if it is a high end rod becareful as any modification to the rod or blank will probably void any warranty.

I would be intererested to hear what Deleware Tackle would have to say on this subject.

[BobP]

I think it would do virtually nothing to the action or the power. But the best solution may not be as simple as you want. To get a new reel seat and new cork over the butt of a tapered rod, you have to oversize their diameter and use what I consider excessive amounts of filler and epoxy when you glue them in their new, smaller diameter position on the blank. To avoid that, I have always removed rod guides until the new handle components will slide over the tip of the blank and down into position with a proper fit. Basically, it's like building a completely new rod - only you have to also strip the blank of many of its existing components without damaging the blank. Bottom line, it's not something I'd recommend trying unless your are into rod building anyway, or don't mind trashing the rod if you screw it up.

[Tony Monticelli]

I think it would do virtually nothing to the action or the power. But the best solution may not be as simple as you want. To get a new reel seat and new cork over the butt of a tapered rod, you have to oversize their diameter and use what I consider excessive amounts of filler and epoxy when you glue them in their new, smaller diameter position on the blank. To avoid that, I have always removed rod guides until the new handle components will slide over the tip of the blank and down into position with a proper fit. Basically, it's like building a completely new rod - only you have to also strip the blank of many of its existing components without damaging the blank. Bottom line, it's not something I'd recommend trying unless your are into rod building anyway, or don't mind trashing the rod if you screw it up.

if eva is an option it will make life easyer for ya, i wouldn't bother with the cork unless i was to strip the rod down and do it correctly...

eva though get em in an id small so its going to fit good n tight... just tight enofe to where your going to need to soap it up to get it on there, work it on and thats that. just scuff up the blanks paint a little but if it has some old glue and stuff left on there you dont need to scuff it just get the handle on there, its not going anywhere as long as you make sure to get the right grip id to where you can work it on with a fight. its not going anywhere you don't need glue i mean really it took soap and elbow grease to get it on... its on there.

the foregrip you will probally glue though by the time you get that all the way up there to where it need to go it should be perfect fit for working the glue in...

the rear grips though shouldnt need it. unless it a split grip then maybe drop some glue in the rear butt cap end anyway,

the rear grip to the reel seat should still be a tight fit there and it not going to want to back down the blank it gets thicker there and the reel seat going to stop it from crawling up the blank..

and if its a full length rear grip well good luck working all that grip on but ounce it on its there till you cut it off.

[Lucky Craft Man]

Well, you guys all gave great advice. After reading your posts I realized this is something I will not be trying to do myself. A professional will have to be retained. Here are the specifics of the project I am considering. I have a G Loomis GLX CBR855. It is a very nice rod as is, but I want to convert it to my ideal jerkbait rod. First, the 7'1" length is a little too long for how I like to fish jerkbaits, so I wanted to cut it down about 4" (for an overall length of 6'9"). Also, the action of the rod is Mod.-Fast, which I like, but if is was slightly more moderate than it was fast, that would be ideal (which I was hoping would happen if I cut it down slightly, because the flexpoint vs. the overall length of the rod would change). The 855 is Med-Heavy in Power and I was hoping that cutting it down would also make it slightly lighter in power. Though, it sounds as if no matter what I do to the rod, the action and power will not change, which would make this whole project mute, unless all I cared about was achieveing a shorter length.

[.RM.]

Well, you guys all gave great advice. After reading your posts I realized this is something I will not be trying to do myself. A professional will have to be retained. Here are the specifics of the project I am considering. I have a G Loomis GLX CBR855. It is a very nice rod as is, but I want to convert it to my ideal jerkbait rod. First, the 7'1" length is a little too long for how I like to fish jerkbaits, so I wanted to cut it down about 4" (for an overall length of 6'9"). Also, the action of the rod is Mod.-Fast, which I like, but if is was slightly more moderate than it was fast, that would be ideal (which I was hoping would happen if I cut it down slightly, because the flexpoint vs. the overall length of the rod would change). The 855 is Med-Heavy in Power and I was hoping that cutting it down would also make it slightly lighter in power. Though, it sounds as if no matter what I do to the rod, the action and power will not change, which would make this whole project mute, unless all I cared about was achieveing a shorter length.

LCM,

Removing any length from the butt of the blank will make the Action/Taper more moderate (SOFTER), it will DECREASE the Stiffness/Power, it will change the lower end of the line rating (slight decrease), and the upper range will DECREASE. Your reel seat might need arbors, also the blank weight decreases.

Hope this helps with your decision..

Tight Lines!

[Tony Monticelli]

LCM,

Removing any length from the butt of the blank will make the Action/Taper more moderate (SOFTER), it will DECREASE the Stiffness/Power, it will change the lower end of the line rating (slight decrease), and the upper range will DECREASE. Your reel seat might need arbors, also the blank weight decreases.

Hope this helps with your decision..

Tight Lines!

yea but whole new problem now, its a GLX and he hasn't done this stuff before..

nice rod as is but its a high performance blank. the walls are pretty thin, right in manufactures build recommendations they say to underwrap guides the first 20 some of inches from the tip because the walls are so thin that you could put the guide foot right threw the blank.. its not a nice work friendly rod at all it will be subject to damaging the blanks integrity easier when doing this stuff. not to mock the glx line at all but as for a beginners project its not a blank i would suggest without experience and even with experience your playing dodge ball doing this stuff with that blank.

[Tony Monticelli]

leave that rod alone, forget you even though of all this. the rods fine its not broken don't fix it.

[Lucky Craft Man]

yea but whole new problem now, its a GLX and he hasn't done this stuff before..

nice rod as is but its a high performance blank. the walls are pretty thin, right in manufactures build recommendations they say to underwrap guides the first 20 some of inches from the tip because the walls are so thin that you could put the guide foot right threw the blank.. its not a nice work friendly rod at all it will be subject to damaging the blanks integrity easier when doing this stuff. not to mock the glx line at all but as for a beginners project its not a blank i would suggest without experience and even with experience your playing dodge ball doing this stuff with that blank.

As I mentioned before, I would not be doing this work. I will retain the services of a professional. Also, as per the Rech Mechanics post, by cutting the butt section, the rod will become more moderate in action and decrease the power rating, which are both of the things I want to achieve. I do think the 855 is a great rod, but I have yet to find a rod that meets what I want in a jerkbait rod and by doing this modification, I may get exactly what I am looking for. Now I just have to find a professional who might be willing to take on this project...

Thanks again for all the comments! I greatly appreciate it.

[Tony Monticelli]

good luck

[.RM.]

As I mentioned before, I would not be doing this work. I will retain the services of a professional. Also, as per the Rech Mechanics post, by cutting the butt section, the rod will become more moderate in action and decrease the power rating, which are both of the things I want to achieve. I do think the 855 is a great rod, but I have yet to find a rod that meets what I want in a jerkbait rod and by doing this modification, I may get exactly what I am looking for. Now I just have to find a professional who might be willing to take on this project...

Thanks again for all the comments! I greatly appreciate it.

LCM,

I have retired from building, old eyes..

Might try DVT here...

or

This is the list of pro builders in your state that I have, it might help..

GoldenWitch

Bamboo Rods, Custom Rods, Rod Building Supplies

info@goldenwitch.com

PO Box 159

Hopeland , PA , 17533

Phone: 717-738-7330

Fax: 717-738-4957

www.goldenwitch.com

==========================

J. Kesckes Custom Rods

Custom Rods, Rod Repair, and General Fishing Information

Kesckes1970@verizon.net

6402 Sundra Drive

East Petersburg , PA , 17520

Phone: 717-572-4765

mysite.verizon.net/resuf4hu/jasonkeschesrodmaker/

================================

MSO Custom Fishing Rods

Custom Rods & Repair. Specializing in Steelhead, Trout and Salmon rods.

msorods@bmer.org

303 W. Shawnee Avenue

Plymouth , PA , 18651

Phone: 570-779-4527

====================================

Rick's Custom Rods - Rick Koontz

Custom Rods, Rod Repair, Rod Parts

rkoontz@andrew.cmu.edu

127 Second Avenue

New Eagle , PA , 15067

=================================

Rod Z Rods/Rod Zeller

Rod Repairs & Restorations, Rod Parts, Custom Rods

rodzrods@gmail.com rodzrods@gmail.com

1117 Mercer Road

Franklin , PA , 16323

Phone: 814-437-7347

Tight Lines!

[Lucky Craft Man]

David,

Thank you so much for that information. I have to say, you have been the most infromitive person I have ran into on here. You always give me great advice on rods and reels and the assistance you provided me when I started servicing my own reels has been incredible (plus I love your Table Top Refernce Book). Thank you again for this information and all the great information you have provided me in the past. I truly appreciate it.

[smalljaw67]

Well, you guys all gave great advice. After reading your posts I realized this is something I will not be trying to do myself. A professional will have to be retained. Here are the specifics of the project I am considering. I have a G Loomis GLX CBR855. It is a very nice rod as is, but I want to convert it to my ideal jerkbait rod. First, the 7'1" length is a little too long for how I like to fish jerkbaits, so I wanted to cut it down about 4" (for an overall length of 6'9"). Also, the action of the rod is Mod.-Fast, which I like, but if is was slightly more moderate than it was fast, that would be ideal (which I was hoping would happen if I cut it down slightly, because the flexpoint vs. the overall length of the rod would change). The 855 is Med-Heavy in Power and I was hoping that cutting it down would also make it slightly lighter in power. Though, it sounds as if no matter what I do to the rod, the action and power will not change, which would make this whole project mute, unless all I cared about was achieveing a shorter length.

I' sorry if I seem out of line here but why do you want the rod more moderate for jerkbaits? Jerkbaits are a close second to spinnerbaits as both are favorites for me and after a long time fishing them I have what I feel is a great set up but I have tried soft rods and it is so hard to work a bait with one it seems hardly worth it. I fish a jerkbait pretty aggressive in warm water and I'll do it in cold water but I use long pauses and only short movements but I can change the way I use them but with a soft rod I found myself moving the rod a foot and the bait only moving a few inches because as I moved the rod it would flex as the bait would move so half of the time the rod would flex rather than the bait move. For making long sweeps and stops it was ok but other than that it was really hard to fish and that is why I use a fast action rod but I recently found a moderate fast rod that had a tip more like a fast action rod that allows me total control over the bait yet still flexes when hooked up and applying pressure. I'm just curious if you have used a soft rod for jerkbaits or is it something you want to try, because that is a good rod that you may end up making it a bad rod. I suggest if you haven't fished a jerkbait on a truly moderate action rod that you try it on a moderate rod befor transforming the GLX, you may like it but you also may end up not caring for it, either way it would be worth your time considering the cost involved.

[Deleted account]

I have a lot of my rods modified, from Walmart specials right up to $illy expen$ive ones, the mod you are contemplating will work well, have it done from the butt, don't let anyone talk you into stripping that blank. Everyone loves to talk theory, I fish with what feels right, I don't care what the specs or #s say. Also keep in mind that different jerkbaits fish best with different actions/powers.

[Lucky Craft Man]

I' sorry if I seem out of line here but why do you want the rod more moderate for jerkbaits? Jerkbaits are a close second to spinnerbaits as both are favorites for me and after a long time fishing them I have what I feel is a great set up but I have tried soft rods and it is so hard to work a bait with one it seems hardly worth it. I fish a jerkbait pretty aggressive in warm water and I'll do it in cold water but I use long pauses and only short movements but I can change the way I use them but with a soft rod I found myself moving the rod a foot and the bait only moving a few inches because as I moved the rod it would flex as the bait would move so half of the time the rod would flex rather than the bait move. For making long sweeps and stops it was ok but other than that it was really hard to fish and that is why I use a fast action rod but I recently found a moderate fast rod that had a tip more like a fast action rod that allows me total control over the bait yet still flexes when hooked up and applying pressure. I'm just curious if you have used a soft rod for jerkbaits or is it something you want to try, because that is a good rod that you may end up making it a bad rod. I suggest if you haven't fished a jerkbait on a truly moderate action rod that you try it on a moderate rod befor transforming the GLX, you may like it but you also may end up not caring for it, either way it would be worth your time considering the cost involved.

Ahhh…now we are getting into a conversation I like. Here is a brief history as to my evolution to the point where I am now (which is considering having someone perform this modification for me). This rod is going to be designed for Lake Erie Smallmouth Bass from ice-out into pre-spawn conditions. From my experience over the last 5 years fishing for these fish, there seems to be a distinct jerkbait action that these fish like. That particular action I would describe as a very erratic wide path of travel. Granted, this isn’t a be-all-end-all action, but it does seem to have the best overall results. I have also toyed with tight in-line aggressive actions along with very methodical moderate actions. I have had success with both of these retrieves, but again, the majority of my success has come with the wide erratic action. The only difference from ice-out fish to full blow pre-spawn fish is the pause between jerks. I’ve experimented with about 15 rods of different length, action, power, and sensitivity.

The lengths I tested ranged from 6’3” to 7’1”. The rods 6’6” and under were just too short for my liking. The shorter length seemed to limit my casting distance. Rods that were 7’ or greater really allowed me to bomb the lure, but at that length, I didn’t feel like I had adequate control over my lure and I couldn’t work exactly how I wanted to. From all my experimentation, a 6’9” rod really hit the sweet spot. It had that little added length to gain some distance in the cast, but was short enough that I felt like I had complete control over my lure.

As far as action is concerned, I experimented with moderate action rods all the way up to extra-fast action rods. As you mentioned, a faster action rod would move the bait, but for some reason, that wide erratic movement with very little direct movement to the boat was the ticket, hence why a more moderate rod seems to work so well. Though, I have found a completely moderate action rod was a little too much to overcome and I was losing a little too much through the soft rod. I have found that a nice moderate-fast action rod is really the ticket. An added bonus is that fish seem to stay hooked up better with a softer rod when using a treble hooked lure like the jerkbait. That added absorption in the rod I know has really helps when that smallmouth decided to go crazy right at the side of the boat.

I have experimented with medium powered rods and medium-heavy powered rods. I have found that a medium powered rod can handle jerkbaits from the Pointer 78 up to the Pointer 100 (along with the Megabass Vision 110, Ima Flit, Jackall Squadminnow, Zip Orbit, etc.), but it struggles with the Pointer 128 and the Magnum Vision 110. A medium-heavy powered rod can handle those larger jerkbaits I mentioned, but it’s a little too much for the Pointer 78’s. Also, a medium powered works quite well for handling smallmouth, but I have found it a little more difficult to bury the hooks into the bony mouth of the occasional pike or muskie I run into up here. With the potential of catching those two species, I like having a little power to bury the hooks home. So, a rod with a power in-between a medium and medium-heavy would be ideal.

Now down to sensitivity. Many people have told me that sensitivity is not needed when fishing jerkbaits or crankbaits. I actually disagree with that statement. When a smallmouth crashes through your lure at mach 3, you could be holding a 3-inch thick tree branch and have no problem feeling the strike. Though, I have seen many times (and I’m sure it happens many more times when I can’t see it) a smallmouth lightly slap at the bait and I’ve never felt it. Also, when dead sticking a jerkbait in the cold water, I have seen fish slowly swim up to the lure, gently mouth it, then spit it out and swim away. You never feel a thing with the less sensitive rods, but with a highly sensitive rod and fluorocarbon, those really soft hits transmit through.

So, a long story short, I am on the hunt for a 6’9”, Moderate-Fast action (though, I would prefer it to be slightly more moderate than fast), between Medium to Medium-Heavy power, and as sensitive as GLX or equivalent. I have yet to find a rod that meets all those criteria. This is why I thought if I took a Moderate-Fast action rod that is Medium-Heavy in power and cut it down from 7’1” to 6’9”, then I would not only get the length I want, but by cutting down the butt section, I would get a rod that is a little more moderate than fast, but not a fully moderate and a rod that would fall between the medium and medium-heavy power. Also, with this rod already being a GLX, then the sensitivity I desire is already there. Now, if you guys know any blank out there that will fulfill all my criteria that I can get a custom built, I am all ears. The unfortunate thing with me is I am beyond picky when it comes to my equipment and I have already talked with a few custom rod builders and they could not provide me with a blank that I am looking for.

I apologize for boring you with that explanation as to why I have come to the current project at hand. The only problem is the unknown of whether the modifications I want made will actually yield the results I am seeking.

[smalljaw67]

Ahhh…now we are getting into a conversation I like. Here is a brief history as to my evolution to the point where I am now (which is considering having someone perform this modification for me). This rod is going to be designed for Lake Erie Smallmouth Bass from ice-out into pre-spawn conditions. From my experience over the last 5 years fishing for these fish, there seems to be a distinct jerkbait action that these fish like. That particular action I would describe as a very erratic wide path of travel. Granted, this isn’t a be-all-end-all action, but it does seem to have the best overall results. I have also toyed with tight in-line aggressive actions along with very methodical moderate actions. I have had success with both of these retrieves, but again, the majority of my success has come with the wide erratic action. The only difference from ice-out fish to full blow pre-spawn fish is the pause between jerks. I’ve experimented with about 15 rods of different length, action, power, and sensitivity.

The lengths I tested ranged from 6’3” to 7’1”. The rods 6’6” and under were just too short for my liking. The shorter length seemed to limit my casting distance. Rods that were 7’ or greater really allowed me to bomb the lure, but at that length, I didn’t feel like I had adequate control over my lure and I couldn’t work exactly how I wanted to. From all my experimentation, a 6’9” rod really hit the sweet spot. It had that little added length to gain some distance in the cast, but was short enough that I felt like I had complete control over my lure.

As far as action is concerned, I experimented with moderate action rods all the way up to extra-fast action rods. As you mentioned, a faster action rod would move the bait, but for some reason, that wide erratic movement with very little direct movement to the boat was the ticket, hence why a more moderate rod seems to work so well. Though, I have found a completely moderate action rod was a little too much to overcome and I was losing a little too much through the soft rod. I have found that a nice moderate-fast action rod is really the ticket. An added bonus is that fish seem to stay hooked up better with a softer rod when using a treble hooked lure like the jerkbait. That added absorption in the rod I know has really help when that smallmouth decided to go crazy right at the side of the boat.

I have experimented with medium powered rods and medium-heavy powered rods. I have found that a medium powered rod can handle jerkbaits from the Pointer 78 up to the Pointer 100 (along with the Megabass Vision 110, Ima Flit, Jackall Squadminnow, Zip Orbit, etc.), but it struggles with the Pointer 128 and the Magnum Vision 110. A medium-heavy powered rod can handle those larger jerkbaits I mentioned, but it’s a little too much for the Pointer 78’s. Also, a medium powered works quite well for handling smallmouth, but I have found it a little more difficult to bury the hooks into the bony mouth of the occasional pike or muskie I run into up here. With the potential of catching those two species, I like having a little power to bury the hooks home. So, I rod with a power in-between a medium and medium-heavy would be ideal.

Now down to sensitivity. Many people have told me that sensitivity is not needed when fishing jerkbaits or crankbaits. I actually disagree with that statement. When a smallmouth crashes through your lure at mach 3, you could be holding a 3-inch thick tree branch and have no problem feeling the strike. Though, I have seen many times (and I’m sure it happens many more times when I can’t see it) a smallmouth lightly slap at the bait and I’ve never felt it. Also, when dead sticking a jerkbait in the cold water, I have seen fish slowly swim up to the lure, gently mouth it, then spit it out and swim away. You never feel a thing with the less sensitive rods, but with a highly sensitive rod and fluorocarbon, those really soft hits transmit through.

So, a long story short, I am on the hunt for a 6’9”, Moderate-Fast action (though, I would prefer it to be slightly more moderate than fast), between Medium to Medium-Heavy power, and as sensitive as GLX or equivalent. I have yet to find a rod that meets all those criteria. This is why I thought if I took a Moderate-Fast action rod that is Medium-Heavy in power and cut it down from 7’1” to 6’9”, then I would not only get the length I want, but by cutting down the butt section, I would get a rod that is a little more moderate than fast, but not a fully moderate and a rod that would fall between the medium and medium-heavy power. Also, with this rod already being a GLX, then the sensitivity I desire is already there. Now, if you guys know any blank out there that will fulfill all my criteria that I can get a custom built, I am all ears. The unfortunate thing with me is I am beyond picky when it comes to my equipment and I have already talked with a few custom rod builders and they could not provide me with a blank that I am looking for.

I apologize for boring you with that explanation as to why I have come to the current project at hand. The only problem is the unknown of whether the modifications I want made will actually yield the results I am seeking.

Excellent!!! I've been jerkbait fishing before they made suspending models, and over that time I tried a lot of rods with different lengths, actions and powers and what I found is pretty similar to you. For the water I fish total control of the lure is a must, I liked the fish fighting ability of softer rods but it came at a price, that being the loss of control which lead to a loss in action. The fast action rods were great for making the bait do what I wanted but landing a fish took time and you needed to be careful but I still lost more fish than I wanted to. The moderate fast rods were so different, some were just too moderate and others too fast so I found what worked very well which was a G.Loomis Jerkbait rod, the JBR752C but it struggled with anything slightly heavier than an X-Rap XR10. For Pointer 100's, Vision 110s and a Spro McStick I was using an old Cabelas XML medium power fast action almost the same as my Loomis but it was better with the heavier offerings and then this season I found a rod that works great with the larger jerkbaits. My Fenwick 6'10" MH-MF Elite Tech smallmouth casting rod, it has the fast tip which gives me the control I want but when you hook a fish and apply pressure you get the flex which makes fighting the fish so much easier, my only problem was getting used to the longer rod as I usually fish a jerkbait with a straight down jerking motion but with the longer rod I had to lear to use a slight sideways motion but all is good now. Thanks for the explanation, I've watched my fried fishing jerkbaits with a really soft rod and he is all over the place and it isn't really bad until you need to get the lure into a specific spot and that is were the proble is, not knowing how far the bait is going to move, you either miss it or over shoot trying to compensate but I now understand your method so thaks for that.

[Dwight Hottle]

Send a pm to Scott, sh fishinsticks, he is a member here & a very good rod builder. Also a PA boy. I'm sure he can help you.

[S Hovanec]

Thanks Dwight. I got a PM from Lucky Craft Man earlier today.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Trimming length off the butt of any blank slows the action and decreases the power. 4" off the butt of a 7'1" blank is not radical by any means and may get you close to what you're looking for. However, the stripping is a lot of labor and there are enough blanks to choose from that you can have what you're looking for built from scratch. You'll spend less and get a better job in the end. I'd be happy to work with you, but you're in good hands with shfishinsticks as well.

[Lucky Craft Man]

I just met with shfishinsticks at lunch today (where I work is somewhat close to his shop). What a nice guy! He had some great ideas on how he can do this without stripping the guides. The one idea is to not have cork on the rear handle, but instead a Winn rear grip, like they have on golf clubs. He said he can slide that on over the end of the blank and it would be a secure fit. I have rod wrap on all my rods, because I like the tacky feel like on a tennis racket, and with the Winn grip, I wouldn't even have to wrap it. I was very pleased and I am excited to get this modified rod out on the water for some great smallmouth action!

[Dwight Hottle]

Now get that rod modified & stick that 7lb smallie.

[A-Jay]

I just met with shfishinsticks at lunch today (where I work is somewhat close to his shop). What a nice guy! He had some great ideas on how he can do this without stripping the guides. The one idea is to not have cork on the rear handle, but instead a Winn rear grip, like they have on golf clubs. He said he can slide that on over the end of the blank and it would be a secure fit. I have rod wrap on all my rods, because I like the tacky feel like on a tennis racket, and with the Winn grip, I wouldn't even have to wrap it. I was very pleased and I am excited to get this modified rod out on the water for some great smallmouth action!

That sounds very cool.

Please consider posting up a shot of the finished product.

A-Jay