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Posted

One of the reasons John is that the carpet is one of the main transports for Zebra Mussels. One of the lakes here its semi private, and the Guard Shack Nazi will spray Clorox-Water everywhere, and give you the 3rd degree while she's doing it. Lol

  • Super User
Posted

The bunks only need to dry out to get rid of the zebes.  I'm also not buying it that a quick dip to launch and a retrieve is a major source of contamination.  Doesn't make much sense.  Someone comes near my boat with a bucket of chemicals, they are going to have a problem.  Pretty much all the lakes around here have zebes and quagga mussels, so it's not a big deal.  They love to blame boaters on the transportation of these things...nevermind that all the bodies of water up here are interconnected via canals.

  • Like 1
Posted

Completely understand that John.  Not to mention the birds and such that travel from body of water to body of water. 

 

 

Many of the smaller lakes around me vary in water levels throughout the year.  Earlier this year one lake was way low and it was advised not to launch.  The dock was out of the water, and I even couldn't navigate around parts in my kayak without dragging.  Now, It's blown out, flooded like I've never seen before. 

 

When the lake is on the lower side, launching alone is kinda challenging.  I distinctly remember having a issue pushing off my Lowe the first time cause I couldn't dip the carpet deep enough to get it to slide of easier.  I hope this would remedy that.  As well as retrieving, I would feel more comfortable just being able to idle up to the stop, and hook up than having to gun the throttle up. 

 

I plan on putting it through the paces and posting up my views soon. 

Posted

Completely understand that John.  Not to mention the birds and such that travel from body of water to body of water. 

 

 

Many of the smaller lakes around me vary in water levels throughout the year.  Earlier this year one lake was way low and it was advised not to launch.  The dock was out of the water, and I even couldn't navigate around parts in my kayak without dragging.  Now, It's blown out, flooded like I've never seen before. 

 

When the lake is on the lower side, launching alone is kinda challenging.  I distinctly remember having a issue pushing off my Lowe the first time cause I couldn't dip the carpet deep enough to get it to slide of easier.  I hope this would remedy that.  As well as retrieving, I would feel more comfortable just being able to idle up to the stop, and hook up than having to gun the throttle up. 

 

I plan on putting it through the paces and posting up my views soon. 

 

Did you buy the 2X4 or 2X6 boards? How did you install them? Countersunk carriage bolts or something else? Thanks.

Posted

I took them off my trailer, way too slick plus they were very flimsy and bowed badMight be OK on a john boat that is not heavy as a bass boat.

 

X2,

I looked at this material for my trailer and gave up on the idea after working with HDP on other projects.

 High-Density Polyethylene do not offer the same support as PT wood per sq foot.  I would NOT install them on a heavy Bass Boat trailer, the only support you'll get is where the up-rights are.  Using a 2X6, the board between the up-rights is like a rubber band.  They may be alright on lighter boats but not the bigger glass boats.

 

The company even states they SPECIALIZE IN SMALL BOAT TRAILERS, PWC'S & BOAT LIFTS.

Posted

I got the 8' 2x4s. I will be reusing my Stainless Lag Bolts per the instructions.

 

I will agree there is some bow in them, But being a tin boat owner, I'm more than confident in it's support for my rig. 

 

Ya'll are correct in your assumptions that a heavier glass rig would be too much weight for them.  I wouldn't even think about them for a 18' or longer glass boat.  But then again, if I had a glass boat, then the Pressure Treated wood wouldn't be a issue. 

 

I accidently redid my bunks with pressure treated, then I learned about the chemicals used to treat wood and their reactivity with Aluminum. 

 

:Idontknow:  Didn't know any better.  But now I do and I'll have easier launching and recovery too :respect-059:

Posted

I would suggest that you insure your boat-to-trailer tie downs are in good shape as the lack of friction from the bunks will place extra stress on your tie downs while towing the boat.  I would think your boat will slide in all XY directions with the movement of the trailer.

 

What about covering the HDP with bunk carpet?  It would be rot free and have the standard friction.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

 

What about covering the HDP with bunk carpet?  It would be rot free and have the standard friction.

 

That doesn't address the strength issue though.

 

I have a 16ft Tracker Jon boat. Extra decking, three batteries, two trolling motors. The lack of strength mentioned here is concerning to me now.

 

Decisions, decisions....

Posted

 

 

What about covering the HDP with bunk carpet?  It would be rot free and have the standard friction.

 

 

That would defeat the purpose of the Ultimate bunk boards, which is ease of launching and loading back up.

  • Super User
Posted

OK, what is so hard about launching and loading?  I dip the stern in, fire up, and back off the trailer, if I'm alone. If I have a partner, then I simply back in a little further and they either handle the ropes, or stay on the trolling motor.  When I'm done, I simply drive on.  I've done the same with everything from open bow runabouts to tiller deep-v boats, to aluminum and glass bass boats.  I'm not buying into the ease of launch - I actually think this would make it more difficult, and almost require side guide on rails.

 

Blue, pony up for some pressure treated and fresh carpet. Make sure you get the carpet intended for this.  Should last you years.

Posted

Why not use composite boards, and cover them with traditional bunk carpet?

We installed some of these. on bass boat trailers last year. Our customers were not happy with the overall experience. We had some scratched bottoms and the overall slippery nature worried people. We did exactly what J Francho said to solve the issue.

Posted

JFrancho, the problem for me is I fish a couple lakes that have very shallow launch sites, and I normally fish alone. My boat will not float off or be pushed off easily. And the second problem is my bad back. 

Posted

JFrancho, the problem for me is I fish a couple lakes that have very shallow launch sites, and I normally fish alone. My boat will not float off or be pushed off easily. And the second problem is my bad back. 

 

Then try the HDP; or use roller bunks, they provide better support to the boat hull.

  • Super User
Posted

JFrancho, the problem for me is I fish a couple lakes that have very shallow launch sites, and I normally fish alone. My boat will not float off or be pushed off easily. And the second problem is my bad back.

This is totally 'nother set of issues than the OP. I'd get in touch with the guy in post #25, and see how he put his trailer together. Looks like counter sunk bolts in the plastic to attach them to the wooden bunks.

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/99399-non-wood-bunk-boards/?p=1348244

Posted

Then try the HDP; or use roller bunks, they provide better support to the boat hull.

 

 My trailer currently has roller bunks on it.

  • Super User
Posted

Rollers are a pain. Jim, does your jon have an outboard? I'd put carpeted bunks on the trailer, and literally drive the boat off. Get it in the water to the point the water pickups are submerged, fire her up, and gently back it off. That has worked for just about every boat I've owned. Loading up, I submerge half the bunks, drive on, and crank it up. You may have to back the trailer a bit as you wind her on, depending on how much the boat weighs, and what your back can handle.

Posted

Another option to the pressure treated wood might be using a microlam. You would probably have to rip it to the right width but they are incredibly strong and with the glue they use they should last a long time too.  

Posted

My trailer needs new boards and it seems like I have to replace them every year and I'm getting tired of it.

 

Wowzers!  I have a 1985 boat and trailer.  Last year I finally took the carpet off the bunks and put on plastic covers.  I have never replaced the bunks. 

 

What are you experiencing that makes you replace the bunks?  Are you talking about taking the boards off and putting on new ones?

Posted

Rollers are a pain. Jim, does your jon have an outboard? I'd put carpeted bunks on the trailer, and literally drive the boat off. Get it in the water to the point the water pickups are submerged, fire her up, and gently back it off. That has worked for just about every boat I've owned. Loading up, I submerge half the bunks, drive on, and crank it up. You may have to back the trailer a bit as you wind her on, depending on how much the boat weighs, and what your back can handle.

 

No outboard. Electric only.

  • Super User
Posted

I think the wood with the slip'n slide on top, shown earlier might be the best setup, then. Good luck, and post some picss if you get something rigged.

Posted

I think the wood with the slip'n slide on top, shown earlier might be the best setup, then. Good luck, and post some picss if you get something rigged.

 

Thanks. I sent Mike a PM, but haven't heard back yet. I'm wondering what product he used.

  • Global Moderator
Posted

Wowzers!  I have a 1985 boat and trailer.  Last year I finally took the carpet off the bunks and put on plastic covers.  I have never replaced the bunks. 

 

What are you experiencing that makes you replace the bunks?  Are you talking about taking the boards off and putting on new ones?

They were breaking loading the boat on, just rotten. One of the lakes I fish the ramp is right next to the kids pond and parents turn their kids loose to run wild in the parking lot and I'm assuming an empty boat trailer must look like a jungle gym because I've had bunks get broken while I was on the lake (assuming from people climbing on my trailer). Like I said I fish a lot and in 100+ degree temps in the summer to below freezing temps in the winter and normally go at least 3 days a week. That's a lot of getting wet and drying out, baking and freezing. I never bought 2x4's specifically for my trailer, I used leftovers from job sites I was working at, so that probably had something to do with the breakage. However I've been very happy with the UBB after 2 years of use and would not hesitate to buy another set if I bought another boat.

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