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Posted

Hey guys, its that time of year again, when the pickerel bite is really good, and the bass are scattered around here and there in a certain lake I fish. Only problem is sometimes the pickerel will really devour the bait and I end up snapping off on the hookset. I've also had alot of misses.

I'd like to know what size hook you use for the 5inch Super Fluke, and what you recommend on doing for solving the issue on snapping off on hooksets due to pickerel teeth.

The hooks I've been using are 4/0 Offset Shank Worm Hooks (not extra wide gap). And the line is 10lb fluoro. As always, thanks for any help!

  • Super User
Posted

You are using the wrong hook, baits like superflukes, shaddicks & shad assasins ball up and choke the gap of the hook when you make the hookset, you need either a wide gap hook or a straight shank hook, guys love to use monster size hooks for those baits, dunno but I don 't think you need them, 3/0 EWG is what I use and I do fine.

  • Super User
Posted

4/0 or 5/0 Owner Wide Gap Plus and the twist and melt coated steel leader will work fine for pickerel.  I use the same stuff for northern pike up here.  You can also use 40-50 lb. fluoro leader material, though that can get expensive.

649782518_SegSH-S.jpg

Posted
You are using the wrong hook, baits like superflukes, shaddicks & shad assasins ball up and choke the gap of the hook when you make the hookset, you need either a wide gap hook or a straight shank hook, guys love to use monster size hooks for those baits, dunno but I don 't think you need them, 3/0 EWG is what I use and I do fine.

X2.  The Fluke is my go-to bait year round.  I use a 3/0 Gamakatsu E.W.G.  I don't know what to tell you about the Pickeral problem because I don't have Pics here.  I fish my Fluke on 8lb line with a small Spro leader 12 inches up.  

Posted

Thanks for the replies guys, I don't have any steel leader, but wouldn't that deter bass from hitting due to visibility? I do have some 40lb Fluoro leader material I use for striper, should I give that a try, and you don't think it would deter bass?

  • Super User
Posted
Thanks for the replies guys, I don't have any steel leader, but wouldn't that deter bass from hitting due to visibility? I do have some 40lb Fluoro leader material I use for striper, should I give that a try, and you don't think it would deter bass?

We don 't have pickerel down here but in some places I 've fish there 's gar ( and some really bigguns !  :) ), the steel leader has never seemed to deter bass from hitting the bait.

  • Super User
Posted

For Super Flukes (not the magnums), I use a Gamakatsu Super Line 4/0 Hook.

Rigged centrally (not in the nose), the 4/0 hvy-wire gamee is perfectly balanced with the 5" fluke,

and darts alternately to the left, and to the right without any nosediving.

Roger

Posted

I use a 3/0 EWG Gamy too. To prevent it from balling up on the hook, I coat the Fluke with an oil based attractant like Kickn' Bass before inserting the hook. Lubed like that, the Fluke will normally climb up the line instead of getting balled up or torn. So you use fewer baits. I usually deadstick Superflukes and it's easy for a bass to swallow it before you sense the strike. It happens often enough that I now crimp down the hook barb so I can get it out more easily. Never had one jump off, so crimping the hook is good for the fish and gets me fishing again faster, too.  I'd try a short leader of 20lb fluorocarbon leader material.  It's tougher than regular fluoro line.

  • Super User
Posted

For Super Flukes (not the magnums), I use a Gamakatsu Super Line 4/0 Hook.

Rigged centrally (not in the nose), the 4/0 hvy-wire gamee is perfectly balanced with the 5" fluke,

and darts alternately to the left, and to the right without any nosediving.

Roger

Roger, what do you mean "centrally (not in ht nose)"?

  • Super User
Posted

For Super Flukes (not the magnums), I use a Gamakatsu Super Line 4/0 Hook.

Rigged centrally (not in the nose), the 4/0 hvy-wire gamee is perfectly balanced with the 5" fluke,

and darts alternately to the left, and to the right without any nosediving.

Roger

Roger, what do you mean "centrally (not in ht nose)"?

I've often read where a member would refer to "nose-hooking" the fluke,

which I'd assume means that the hook is confined to the head area.

I rig the fluke so the hook-point is central in the lure, and the point is embedded in plastic.

Since I use braided line, getting through the plastic is never a problem.

ZoomFluke-s.jpg

Roger

Posted

 I use the EWG Gammi 4/0. I try my darndest to hook flukes the same way every time, even down to trimming the nose if there seems to be extra plastic. Every now and then one will act like I think they are supposed to (NEVER consistently :'(). Just a RANT...

skillet

Posted
I use the EWG Gammi 4/0. I try my darndest to hook flukes the same way every time, even down to trimming the nose if there seems to be extra plastic. Every now and then one will act like I think they are supposed to (NEVER consistently :'(). Just a RANT...

skillet

i'm with ya there skillet...each one has its own personality, cybill baits

Thats what I LOVE about em!  :)

  • Super User
Posted
I use the EWG Gammi 4/0. I try my darndest to hook flukes the same way every time, even down to trimming the nose if there seems to be extra plastic. Every now and then one will act like I think they are supposed to (NEVER consistently :'(). Just a RANT...

skillet

So true my friend.They seem to have a mind of their own.Sometimes thats good though.

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