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  • Super User
Posted

I prefer to snell this style hook.  Any negatives to moving the shrink wrap weed guard down the hook shank?

  • Super User
Posted

J, I don't think so other than the roughness of the braided stainless steel damaging the line when cinching the knot down. I use the Uni-Knot for snelling also, but usually snell a hook when using heavy tungsten sinkers on Tx rigs ( it eliminates damage to the knot by the hard metal of the sinker since the sinker only hits against the hook eye ).

  • Super User
Posted

Thanks Wayne.  These are supreme and elegantly rigged hooks.  I've nevar realized much issue using an exposed hook point for wacky rigged worms, but then again, I don't drag the rig through heavy weeds either. I prefer teh the snelled hooks for the same reason as you, and would also cite the physics of the hookset as an advantage, if you are like me and cannot simply reel down on the fish, LOL.  I'll have to mess around with this.  Thanks for sharing it again.

  • Super User
Posted
Thanks Wayne. These are supreme and elegantly rigged hooks. I've nevar realized much issue using an exposed hook point for wacky rigged worms, but then again, I don't drag the rig through heavy weeds either. I prefer teh the snelled hooks for the same reason as you, and would also cite the physics of the hookset as an advantage, if you are like me and cannot simply reel down on the fish, LOL. I'll have to mess around with this. Thanks for sharing it again.

That's what I was thinking -line/point angle. I always snelled up-eye hooks -out of necessity. For fly-fishing, where there is a fly head (thread wraps) to deal with I used a Euro knot called a "Tweed Clinch" -essentially a clinch knot but the line is first run through the eye, under the head, then back out the eye again on the other side of the head. From there you just tie the regular clinch. It places the knot wraps inside the eye, and leaves the tippet in-line with the shank. Good knot -caught plenty of big browns and steelies with it.

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