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Posted

I fish 90% with plastic worms with a few crawfish or frogs thrown in. My biggest problem is this: I cast and let the worm settle to the bottom. After about 10 sec I slowly retrieve, giving the worm a little jerk occassionally. After bringing the worm back 10 feet or so I start getting hung up on moss or what ever is growing on the bottom and I wind up reeling in a pile of undergrowth. This gets really frustrating. Is this just the nature of the beast, or is there something I can do to keep from dredging the bottom of the lake?

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Posted

If you are using a texas rig then you need to use a lighter bullet weight or smaller (tungsten) bullet weight.

I always choose the lightest weight I can get away with but I always use a bullet weight to help the plastic get through the grass without pulling on the nose of the plastic.

Posted

I tried using a Texas rig with the lightest bullet weight I could find. Same result. I changed to a small 1" headless nail inserted at the head of the worm to give it some weight.

Posted

I like to use a drop shot in this situation. The drop shot let the sinker drag in the slime while my worm/creature is in the clear. Some trial and error let you adjust the dropper length or if your electronics is sensitive enough you can see how high the moss is floating from the bottom. I hate dredging up slimy stuff and having to clean my hook on every cast.

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  • Super User
Posted

The power and action of the rod can make a difference. Too soft a rod will not allow you to shake or snap free of weeds. A med-heavy, fast or X-fast action is what I use in weeds. Pegging your weight is worth a try. Many times you can shake it through, sometimes popping or snapping will work better; often applying a little pressure and then backing off will work. In very heavy stuff a vertical presentation may work better. The really nasty, snotty algae is just a pain to deal with.

Working the inner or outer edges sometimes is the answer. Grass can be aggravating, but bass love it. Good luck.

Posted

I like to use a drop shot in this situation. The drop shot let the sinker drag in the slime while my worm/creature is in the clear. Some trial and error let you adjust the dropper length or if your electronics is sensitive enough you can see how high the moss is floating from the bottom. I hate dredging up slimy stuff and having to clean my hook on every cast.

i was thinking this exact same thing. or you can keep ur current retrieve if you use a carolina rig. try a 1/16oz weight. when u texas rig ur worm make sure you bury the off set shank/hook AND the knot inside the worm/plastic of choice. the knot picks up a lot of scum. use ur rod tip to lift the weight off the bottom and ur worm should float behind it. lighter worms and hooks help a lot. a 6" senko on 3/0 hook is too heavy.

Posted

What kind of hook are you using. Trying using a regular straight shank worm hook instead of a wide gap hook if thats what you are using. The offset in the wide gap hooks will catch weeds while texas rigging the worm on the straight shank will pass right through the weeds.

Offset

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hvoSKpTmlYo/ThOzembvbFI/AAAAAAAAAm4/BEhKa1G_PZo/s1600/Carolina+rigged+Texas+rig+w-Senko+worm.jpg

Straight Shank

http://www.glennsrodngun.com/product_images/uploaded_images/gamakatsu-strtshnk.jpg

  • Super User
Posted

Drop Shot X2.

Swim a Senko or your finesse/trickworm over the grass using a light weight to get the bait to go over the top of the grass.

Swim a jig and pig and see what happens.

Branch out and throw a Rat-L-Trap (lipless crankbait).

Try your luck wiht a spinnerbait.

Plastics are great. However, try other presentations, too.

  • Super User
Posted

Along with what has been said; I think there's a certain finessing involved. Unless the vegetation is slimy algae, you can try popping the bait free off the junk when you feel it's getting bogged down. I don't fish a lot of plastics, but I do fish bottom bouncing presentations pretty often. Sometimes that popping off will trigger a bite. Usually it's not the hook, but the weight/ head of the bait that's picking up that junk. You need to feel what the bait is doing down there. Is it crawling through rocks, dead leaves, grass, or something else? "Be the bait". Instead of working the bait with the reel as you mention, you might want to try working it with the rod sometimes.

  • Super User
Posted

Dropshot is a great suggestion. I would also recommend fishing a shaky-head.

Although it will come back with lots of trash, during the presentation the worm

will stick up above the clutter. Another suggestion is to swim a jig. I have

had some success with the GMAN 1/4 oz swim jig and a 4" Rage Tail Single Tail

Grub trailer.

  • Super User
Posted

I think your biggest problem is the way you're fishing it. What you are doing is basically fishing your T-rigged worm like a carolina rig and it doesn't work in weeds. What you need is a good medium heavy, fast action rod, a good rod with a good amount of sensitivity so you'll feel when your bait makes contact with weeds which you will then pop the weeds off before your bait gets totally bogged down. Once you got the right rod and you're fishing the same type of cover, try using a lift and drop approach to present the worm rather than the slow retrieve or drag, what you are doing works but it is better to do in when fishing a sand or gravel type bottom instead of muck and weeds. Remember also that as you begin to lift the bait and feel weeds, you can give the rod a few shakes and get it to come free of the weeds or you can give the rod a "pop", and sort of rip it off the weeds, a lot of times ripping it off of weeds will result in a strike so remain alert when doing this!

  • Global Moderator
Posted

I tried using a Texas rig with the lightest bullet weight I could find. Same result. I changed to a small 1" headless nail inserted at the head of the worm to give it some weight.

The nails work great. I've found myself useing them more and more.

You can use finising nails with or without the ribs or buy the the one's at your local shop.

I like 'em because you can make the bait fall in different ways if you want instead of just nose down.

The only drawback is that if you keep moving it around on the same plastic be very carefull not to rip the plastic too much.

Mike

Posted

All great suggestions. Many thanks!

Posted

Very good advice mentioned above.

I've had very good luck in the past throwin a 5" Senko, tex-exposed (weightless) into the grass and let it get caught up in the grass. Let it sit, get caught up, and let it fall with a slightly slacked line and wait for any line movement. You can work the entire water column if u work it slow and just let the Senko work for you. Works deadly at my local lakes when the grass comes back during the late spring and summer.

-b

  • Super User
Posted

All good posts so far. I think Vinny mentioned pegging the weight. If it is pegged or if u use a shakey then the nose will dig down into the crap. Unpegged and as light as you can get away with allows you to "pop" the bait. keep the rod at around the 11:00-12 position,semi slack.

Flukes with a small nail weight can be efffective. Instead of using a belly weight,many times I take a lead nail weight and drive it straight through the body of the bait above the hook and use my pliers to clip off each side.

The senko is no secret. You live in Fla you really need to try the GYCB 6.5 inch Kuttail. Weightless or with a tiny nail inserted just rear of the hook. Match your color to the water. Most times junebug or black work just splendidly,clear water or bright green algae go with watermelon/red. I fish a few ponds that have algae like this and the Kuttail is a devastating bait. Twitch slow and let it settle but not to long or it will bury.

Use a trick worm with a small piece of nail in the rear end. Twitch and work similar to a fluke.

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