What All Is Needed For Carb Rebuild

[Polarkraft05]

My boat is a 1973 and it has been atleast 10 years since the carb has been rebuilt. so i plan on doing it in the next month. either i will do it or pay someone to do it but either way i plan on ordering the parts now.

I have found a carb kit for my engine, which i assume i need two of the kits since my engine has two carb's?

And it doesnt appear the kit includes the float, so im asssuming i should go ahead and buy those too?

also i cant tell for sure if the carb kit has everything i would need aside from the float? as in needles?

here is the kit for my engine

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00144EPU2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and here is the float

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009TPRBO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

if i buy those two things (two of each?) will i be set to rebuild my carb's?

also if anyone knows of a good video or instruction manual for rebuilding a 73 mercury 85 hp engine that would be great. i plan on ordering a manual with it, but a video would be nice as well.

[Way2slow]

You should not need the float, I wouldn't order it if I was going to build. The needle and seat is in the kit. Carbs are very simple looking but there is some knowledge required in building them. A manual will help, if nothing else, just to show you the breakdown and how to set the float level. The biggest thing is getting all the orfices clean, knowing where they are, and being careful not to do anything that will inlarge any of them. You can't look at it and think it's clean, a lot of times they can look clean but still not run right, it only takes a few microns to make one run bad.

[A-Rob]

My carb rebuild was pretty straight forward (thank goodness)

Sometimes the gaskets get stuck pretty good and leave parts of it stuck to the frame that can be a bit of a pain to get off but there is a product to help unstick it all.

I took a picture with my digital camera of everything I took apart so I had a step by step set of pictures to refresh my memory if needed when putting everything back together (especially b/c if you start it one day and put it together on a later day)

some parts should only be hand tightened, don't crank them down with the wrench (I broke a high speed control off when I wasn't thinking, $2 to replace).

My float is crazy old but was still in great shape, hopefully yours is to. Maybe open it up and inspect it before purchasing a new one?

Good luck!

[Polarkraft05]

Thanks for the tips guys, i am ordering the two carb kits ( i do need two correct?) i have two carbs, and it appears one kit only covers 1 carb.

ill wait on the float for now, as i can always order it if i need it but its harder to return things online.

Is there anything else i should order with it? all the cleaners and such can be bought locally, but is there any other "essential" tune up parts i should order?

[TomB]

You need one kit per carb to have the gaskets and needle and seats for each. If the floats are plastic then replace them to be safe. May absorb gas over time and get heavier which throws level off. Ethanol can cause problems. If the floats are brass (2 stampings soldered together) then shake and listen for leaks that let in gas. If you hear anything replace.

Unless you have an air compressor you should get a can of carb cleaner and a can of air (Staples etc. to clean keyboards). The carb cleaner to get rid of gum and the air to blow out all passages. Never stick anything in a passage.

Take one carb apart at a time so you have an assembled one to compare in case you get stuck. Take apart carbs carefully over a bedsheet so dropped parts or springs can be found. Don't do it over a dirty garage floor.

If the kit has no info on setting the floats then don't try to adjust them. Don't bend anything.

Don't use any gasket goop or sealer on any gasket. Tighten attachment screws snug not crazy tight. Mixture screws should be lightly turned all the way in, then back out 1 and a half turns. With engine running and warm you can then turn in or out until idle is smooth.

When carbs are off cover the openings with a towel to prevent dropping anything in.

To build confidence rebuild one carb then run the engine. If ok then do the other.

Good luck! It ain't rocket watchmaking.

[Polarkraft05]

thanks for the info it was very useful.

I also bought an online manual, lots cheaper than the book version and seems pretty in depth

[james 14]

I was having some carb issues and pulled mine apart, cleaned it out and reassembled with the same parts and its been running great ever since. These were the original carb parts and the motor is a ~1980 model. I might've gotten a carb kit if I could've found any info on any Yamaha motor before '84. Heard a rumor their facility burned down down in the 80s and they lost everything.

[FL_Sharpshooter]

Good advice here on taking pictures before breaking apart, that is a very smart idea. My father and I just rebuilt the carbs in his pontoon boat a few weeks ago. From what I noticed, what's going on with the ethanol gas is that it's eating the seals inside the carbs. Those eaten parts then get lodged in the holes on the carb, which causes problems. The best solution is to pay the higher price and run non-ethanol fuel (recreational fuel). One big word of advice I can give you when cleaning the carbs is to definitely invest in a carb cleaner dip (father used berryman dip (walmart)), not dipping your carbs in this solution and only using a carb jet sprayer, such as gum-out, is a big mistake. The process we used was to first spray the carb out with gum-out(or similar product) then dip the carb in a cleaning solution for about an hour, and then spray the carb again with gum-out spray. The boat has been running the proper RPM ever since and sounds great! Good luck, let us know how it turns out.