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Posted

For jigs? Just started using them and realized mono wasn;t working for me lol. Had a reel rigged up with 17lb mono and caught my first jig fish and lost a few bites. I don't really fish "heavy" cover, or atleast until summer comes around. Would 15-20lb fluorocarbon be a good line for all around jig fishing? casting/flipping

What about yo zuri hybrid for jigs? what #?

  • Super User
Posted

Open water you can do a 17lb flouro. You just have to remember that each type of line has its own characteristics. Flouro can be damaged easier than braid, but is stronger than mono. I think braid is a lot easier to cast than mono or flouro. All my rigs are spooled with 65# Spiderwire, and it serves me good whether I fish local canals, or the thick grassy flats in the Everglades. Also, braid is a zero stretch, so hooksets are a +, but it takes some getting used to. The only way your gonna know is to try it. I fish with all baitcasters, maybe you use spinners, so there are some variables to the equation.

Posted

i use 15# vicious fluorocarbon for plastics and jigs. i have broke off with it, but it's always at the knot and after catching 3-4 without retying. i don't really fish grass, so it works for me

i like how braid handles (especially on spinning) but i don't stay as connected to the lure as i do with fc.

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Posted

Unless it is super clear water 65 lb braid is the way to go. I like power pro but any braid you like should be fine.

Posted

i have all baitcasters just wanna have atleast 2 rigged for jigs. figured id do one with braid and one with fluoro.

Posted

Depends how much you want to spend. You cant cut corners with fluorocarbon. I fish pretty sparse cover and use 14lb Sunline FC Sniper and it gets it done. If you don't want to spend much and like braid then all means go with 50lb braid. You can also add a leader if you feel it is too visible or to boost your confidence.

Posted

fluoro-no more than $15 a spool

braid-ill use power pro

Then go with power pro.

  • Super User
Posted

Open water you can do a 17lb flouro. You just have to remember that each type of line has its own characteristics. Flouro can be damaged easier than braid, but is stronger than mono. I think braid is a lot easier to cast than mono or flouro. All my rigs are spooled with 65# Spiderwire, and it serves me good whether I fish local canals, or the thick grassy flats in the Everglades. Also, braid is a zero stretch, so hooksets are a +, but it takes some getting used to. The only way your gonna know is to try it. I fish with all baitcasters, maybe you use spinners, so there are some variables to the equation.

There's a lot of misinformation in that post. Let's start with fluoro being easier damaged, it's absolutely untrue. Under normal fishing, fluorocarbon has greater abrasion resistance and is more resilient than braid. Braid has zero abrasion resistance, none whatsoever. I fish fluorocarbon in the deepest, thickiest nasty for a reason: I know that it isn't going to pop like braid from fishing in rock and wood. It's also my preferred line, as well many others will attest, for flipping.

Fluorocarbon is less likely to wind knot and tip wrap than even 65 braid. Braid is notorious, again, even in larger diameter, for digging in on the spool whether from a snag or setting the hook and fighting a fish; I don't care how large a diameter you fish- braid does it and nothing you say will convince me otherwise. I've been around it long enough, and fished it long enough to know the truth. When it digs, it's likely to create more issues for you- backlash, losing a fish, break-offs; they all can, and will, happen over time.

Fluorocarbon has better casting behaviour and gives you more feel under all conditions. Yes braid is very sensitive, but you can't feel anything on a slack line with it. It's also terrible for fishing in the wind; you can't tell what's going on with your bait or your line. The fact that braid floats is also a pain, it bellies on the water, and below, and you lose your direct connection when fishing lighter jigs.

The only time I fish braid is for frogs and I have one reel spooled with braid for certain conditions flipping.

As a general jig line, fluorocarbon is the better choice.

  • Super User
Posted

To each their own, I don't bad rap what anyone else is using. For me, it's strictly spinning gear with 10 or 15# braid and I'm not overly fussy on the brand, on sale is ideal.

Fishing in Florida I fish in some very weedy areas 15# cuts thru very well for me. I'm a real non technical guy and lazy, using braid, swivel, short leader and a duolock, much of the time I don't retie any of it for a week or more and I fish everyday. Braid will cut and it happens all the time, in saltwater on coral and barnacles, don't often experience cutting in freshwater. Fishing a senko yesterday on a very windy day there was no problem feeling bites with slack in the braid, no I wasn't using a Loomis. No question wind knots can be an issue, for me the trade off is well worth any line management problems I may with other lines. My windknots in freshwater are not rare, but not common either, saltwater I get them more often.

The best choice is the line that you are most comfortable with.

  • Super User
Posted

There's a lot of misinformation in that post. Let's start with fluoro being easier damaged, it's absolutely untrue. Under normal fishing, fluorocarbon has greater abrasion resistance and is more resilient than braid. Braid has zero abrasion resistance, none whatsoever. I fish fluorocarbon in the deepest, thickiest nasty for a reason: I know that it isn't going to pop like braid from fishing in rock and wood. It's also my preferred line, as well many others will attest, for flipping.

Fluorocarbon is less likely to wind knot and tip wrap than even 65 braid. Braid is notorious, again, even in larger diameter, for digging in on the spool whether from a snag or setting the hook and fighting a fish; I don't care how large a diameter you fish- braid does it and nothing you say will convince me otherwise. I've been around it long enough, and fished it long enough to know the truth. When it digs, it's likely to create more issues for you- backlash, losing a fish, break-offs; they all can, and will, happen over time.

Fluorocarbon has better casting behaviour and gives you more feel under all conditions. Yes braid is very sensitive, but you can't feel anything on a slack line with it. It's also terrible for fishing in the wind; you can't tell what's going on with your bait or your line. The fact that braid floats is also a pain, it bellies on the water, and below, and you lose your direct connection when fishing lighter jigs.

The only time I fish braid is for frogs and I have one reel spooled with braid for certain conditions flipping.

As a general jig line, fluorocarbon is the better choice.

I have no such mentioned problems except for maybe some tip wrap every once in a while, but thats the nature of the beast. Never broke, I can fish fine in the wind, casts better that flouro or mono, and if you let the line slack too much thats your own fault. Tune your equipment and get used to braid and it will be your best friend, but everyone has their own opinion.
  • Super User
Posted

if you let the line slack too much thats your own fault. Tune your equipment and get used to braid and it will be your best friend, but everyone has their own opinion.

There are techniques that call for a slack line, not to mention that when a jig is falling it's on a slack line. Fish a senko? Slack line. Fish Ikas? Slack line. Fish tubes for a drop? Slack line. Fish blades on the fall? Slack line. Fish jigging/flutter spoons? Slack line.

I fish equipment that's among the best there is, Steezy would argue that point, but that's another story. tuning your equipment has nothing to do with fishing braid, and the fact of the matter is that all of those things will occur with braid. It's not a matter of opinion, it's fact. Wind bellies braid, again fact, not a perceived instance.

I agree that it's a matter of preference, but one should be truthful in stating the advantages and disadvantages, not one's perceptions. As a case in point: when you're dragging a jig, nothing can beat braid for the sensitivity, no doubt about that. Yet, it is not the perfect line for all situations and all conditions. If that were the case every pro would be throwing braid on every rod under all conditions. Yet, over 90% of the Elite series pros are using fluorocarbon on their jig rods, on their flip sticks, and for TX rigs. Many only use braid on spinning reels. THAT says something in, and of, itself.

  • Super User
Posted

You fish different types than me. Im in the swamp here in the Everglades where mono and flouro dont stand a chance against the cover that is in our waters. We dont fish most those baits you mentioned, its mostly frogs, lizards, toads, shads, traps, jerks, spooks, some jigs (mostly swimming through heavy grass), big worms and snakes. I see your point, being from GA, he may have heavy cover, he may not, all I know is that unless you are fishing a clean lake down here, flouro and mono dont cut it. You want to drag a pig out of the grassy flats, you better be at least 50# braid or better.

Posted

yeah i have heavy cover when its summer time but my plan is to have a rig with braid and a rig with fluoro

occasionally ill fish somewhere with submerged vegetation

what are some decent fluoro lines under $15 in the 15-20lb range?

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
what are some decent fluoro lines under $15 in the 15-20lb range?

Unless you find Bass Pro Shops XPS 100%, Berkley 100%, or InvisX on sale, you're going to have to spend a little more. Those are three reasonably priced lines that I trust my entry fees on.

Raise your budget to $20 to $25, and your options are better. Otherwise, stick with braid and use a leader if necessary, or try a stronger coplymer line like P-Line CXX.

  • Super User
Posted

You fish different types than me. Im in the swamp here in the Everglades where mono and flouro dont stand a chance against the cover that is in our waters. We dont fish most those baits you mentioned, its mostly frogs, lizards, toads, shads, traps, jerks, spooks, some jigs (mostly swimming through heavy grass), big worms and snakes. I see your point, being from GA, he may have heavy cover, he may not, all I know is that unless you are fishing a clean lake down here, flouro and mono dont cut it. You want to drag a pig out of the grassy flats, you better be at least 50# braid or better.

I disagree. I fish just as heavy cover and and I have no issues whatsoever. And all those baits I mentioned? Those get fished a LOT in FL, man, don't kid yourself. Harris Chain, Okee, Toho... I've fished them all many times, and they're baits I use. Again, braid does not stand up to heavy cover, be it hard or soft, as well as fluorocarbon, it's a fact.

  • Super User
Posted

I agree with LgMouthGambler, interesting we fish similar waters and live within 15 minutes of each other, my exception is I use lighter braid and spinning gear.

I see no problems with braid and slack, I have no problem in detecting bites with a slack line, but there really isn't that much slack all that often. The heavier weight as with a bullet weight or jig head, the less slack. I can see having problems with slack using a line that stretches.

Bottom line if you don't like braid, don't use it, but say there are better choices is only a personal preference.

Posted

Why is everyone like 65lb braid? The line diameter is equal to a 16lb flruo, its not too heavy for Jigs? I mean I haven't used braided line myself, and was going to buy few spools this season.

  • Super User
Posted

Why is everyone like 65lb braid? The line diameter is equal to a 16lb flruo, its not too heavy for Jigs? I mean I haven't used braided line myself, and was going to buy few spools this season.

65# Spiderwire=12# dia. Thats why I like it. I never have problems with it.
  • Super User
Posted

Why is everyone like 65lb braid? The line diameter is equal to a 16lb flruo, its not too heavy for Jigs?

I scratch my head on this as well. Ive used BC for 30+ years and the last 9-10 has been with braid 8-20# and really dont need any heavier. Got to look at the structure surroundings of the waters fished I guess. And the size fish, I dont catch big bass :( so 20# in my waters is more than plenty.

  • Super User
Posted

I don't go less than 50/12 on baitcasting gear. It's easier to handle in the bigger diameter.

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