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Posted

I'm looking to buy some of these e2 jigs made by megastrike and I was wondering if anyone else has used them before and how the perform.

I also have a couple of cavitron buzzbaits but I was wondering how to fix them if they seem to want to veer off to the right or left whenever reeling them in. It gets really frustrating that they do this (especially when they veer off into brush) and I've tried to find a bend in them or something but I can't. Are they designed to do this? Please help me, even if you haven't use this particular bait. Do most buzzbaits have this problem?

  • Super User
Posted

I fish the 3/8 oz Evolution e2 Jigs which are favorites!

The stand-up hook positioning results in a vary enticing

trailer presentation. Pick your poison: Rage Tail Craws

or Lobster, GYCB Flappin' Hog or Baby Paca Craws are

my favorities.

Someone else will have to address the problem you are

having with the Cavitron. They all perform perfectly for me.

When Bobby sees this post, I'm sure he will respond.

8-)

Posted

I cant really tell whats wrong until I see the Cavitron. Believe me I play with these things all the time. If its rolling over to the left(when its coming at you) then you are just reeling too fast. The cup pitch -which is what causes the resistance and slows the bait down is very deep on Cavitron blades. If you open up the pitch you can reel them faster  because there is less resistance through the water. If its turning to the right -then the wire is out of align- Look from the back of the bait and make sure the top wire is in alignment with the hook and keel. Look from the front and make sure all of the components are straight. When you said that the bait was turning into the brush -at times I have bent them so they will do this. i will bend them so they run under docks and along pilings on retention walls. I have caught numerous fish this way. The is always plan b-Send them back and i will send ya new ones- Cant beat that.

  • BassResource.com Administrator
Posted

When I first started using the Cavitrons, they veered to the left.  I soon discovered I was reeling them in too fast.  These are designed to go slower than standard buzzbaits, and it takes some getting used to.  But that's exactly why they catch bass!

  • Super User
Posted

I use the E2 jigs with finesse worms, and I like them.

One note of advice if you use them.

I like the arrangement for tying to your line. But, be sure to retie often, even if your line/leader is not frayed. The advantage is that you pick up fewer bits of grass or weed at the knot.

I lost a couple of jigs, because the line parted at the knot.

I use 20 pound fluoro for a leader. When the jigs broke off, the line came back with a little curve at the end, indicating to me, that it broke off because it was damaged from contacting rocks, or scuffing along the bottom.

Close examination showed the line had been scuffed.

For me, I retie before my first cast of the day with the jig. That has eliminated the problem.

If you fish exclusively with the jig, you might need to retie a couple of times a day. It depends on the bottom where you fish, and how many casts you make on a given day.

Each time you check the line for nicks, examine the knot carefully.

http://web7.streamhoster.com/basswest/MegaStrikeShakeyUPDATE.swf

  • Super User
Posted

I loved the e2 jigs when they first came out; bottom line : that jagged post that holds the plastics are just 2 thick and destructive to the plastics, that includes Yamamoto ( Fat Ikas), ***( Finesse worms,Brush Bugs), Zoom( Tricks) and Mann's( Jelly Worms) . Way too much tear and there are other jig heads out there just as effective without ripping the heads off your plastics in a ridiculously short time.

  • Super User
Posted
I fish the 3/8 oz Evolution e2 Jigs which are favorites!

The stand-up hook positioning results in a vary enticing

trailer presentation. Pick your poison: Rage Tail Craws

or Lobster, GYCB Flappin' Hog or Baby Paca Craws are

my favorities.

Someone else will have to address the problem you are

having with the Cavitron. They all perform perfectly for me.

When Bobby sees this post, I'm sure he will respond.

8-)

R.W. hit it right on the head with the Evo jigs. 3/8 oz. is great all around weight and these are IMO the best designed and made jigs

around. Good trailer choices also and I would add the Chigger Craw.

Can't help with the Buzzbaits as I prefer double bladed models.

I've heard nothing but good about Cavitrons. As you can already see, Bobby is great with helping out and answering questions.

Muddy-

I know it might be a pain, but if you scrape off the paint with a knife, your tearing problem might get better.

  • Super User
Posted

Paying that much dough for a simple jig head and having to mess with it,is not my idea of a satisfactory product. BTW I did that, still tore into them. I don't want to go on about a sponsors product, if they would change this I would have a mess of them in my tackle box.

Hey CWB : easier way to get the paint off: Go to model building store; to those little testors paint bottles: Get the one marked paint thinner or laquer remover and put it on an old dish rag ( don't let the old lady catch you) and just wipe it off, works great!

  • Super User
Posted
Paying that much dough for a simple jig head and having to mess with it,is not my idea of a satisfactory product. BTW I did that, still tore into them. I don't want to go on about a sponsors product, if they would change this I would have a mess of them in my tackle box.

Hey CWB : easier way to get the paint off: Go to model building store; to those little testors paint bottles: Get the one marked paint thinner or laquer remover and put it on an old dish rag ( don't let the old lady catch you) and just wipe it off, works great!

I believe they are powder coated.  If they are, acetone, lacquer thinner or nail polish remover wont touch it.

The powder coating is the problem.  It fills the recesses in the ringed barbs.

I use the Strike King finesse worms.  They do not tear.  But, I use them on the barb of the hook shank.  When I use them on the weedless "holder" they do not stay well.  They remain on the hook just fine, but the head pops off the barb.  Sometimes on the cast.

I like 'em.  I use 'em.  But the retaining barb for weedless rigging is useless.

I see nothing to indicate that the powder coating lasts any longer than paint when fished in rocks.  Not the bottoms I fish anyway.

Most of my jigs end up being silver where the paint or powder coat gets knocked off.

I don't see that as a problem since the parts that make contact with the rocks, and lose their coating aren't visible to the fish to begin with.

Posted

Am I missing something here?? What are you messing with? The powder coating in the eyelet-That wont cut line.As for the spike keeper-After the first run we added another ring to the keeper. it worked much better -the bait had more to bite on. ya have to see what happens under the water to really find  or see the advantages of these baits.

  • Super User
Posted

Bobby-

I think I had this conversation with you a while back after buying a bunch of the jigs. The keeper and head are powdercoated which adds to the durability of the bait but does increase the size of the keeper which is what Muddy is referring to as tearing up the trailers.

I trim some off the keeper with a knife and it seems to work for me.

Thinner will not affect the powdercoating. Not a big deal. Gives me something to do while at dinner with the wife. ;D

  • Super User
Posted

I was gonna leave this alone, but you asked, I bought 3 packs of them, when they first came out.Liked the action but that center post that holds the baits is way to thick and eat the trailers up.

I do not know about powder coating, OR what that even means. I kept 4 jigs and gave the rest away. Thye jigs I kept are black in color and I used Testors paint thinner and a fine grade sand paper and wiped it clean with a towel, they still tore up the trailers

I only speak from experience and this is my experience . It is not the plastics because it happened with the four brands and five baits i used them with

Picassos

Secrets

Omegas

BPS Football Jigs

*** Shaky Jig

These all work just fine and do not tear the baits

  • Super User
Posted
Am I missing something here?? What are you messing with? The powder coating in the eyelet-That wont cut line.As for the spike keeper-After the first run we added another ring to the keeper. it worked much better -the bait had more to bite on. ya have to see what happens under the water to really find or see the advantages of these baits.

I made reference to my line getting scuffed because it makes contact with the rocky bottom, not the powder coated opening for tying on the line.

I have no problem with the annular barb on the hook shank. That holds the SK finesse worm just fine. The angled barb for rigging weedless does no hold the SK finesse worm well at all. It is smaller, and shorter than the barb on the hook shank.

Many don't like the elaZtech worms because they are nigh impossible to put on a barb, a twistlock, or any other coil type holder.

I heat a thin safety pin, and melt a hole along the centerline of the worm to a depth of 3/4" to 1" deep. Problem solved.

But, here's the kicker. I have to work to get it onto the angled barbed holder. It's at this point that it gets tricky.

I have to hook it with a bit of excess worm body between the barb and the hook. If I don't, even nibbles from the little finned creatures is enough to pull it free. Sometimes, just casting is enough to dislodge the head of the worm from the barb.

I would guess that pre powder coating, the barbed holder looks just like a hose barb.

1inHoseBarbStraight-1.jpg

Powder coating, as I understand it is a powder that adheres to the object being coated by electrostatic charges. The object is then heated which melts and fuses the coating into a single unit.

On the bait holder barbs, this eliminates the biting edge of the barb, since it melts together in a fairly uniform concave ring around the holder.

The bait holder looks more like this annular ring shank nail.

73711_m.jpg

It's not a big deal to me, since most of the bottom where I fish the rocks has no weeds.

A slight refinement in the angled barb would make all the difference in the world.

  • Like 1
Posted

What happens on our type of trailer keeper is the angle of the cones or barbs are in an upward or forward position -like that little plastic hose fitting in that pic above. When the bait gets pushed on the keeper it goes with the grain of the rings-when pulled back they go against the grain therefore cutting into the plastic and keeping it set. What I do when applying the bait to the spike is pinch the bait to set it. I do not have it come off often. I have other fishermen say they put super glue on it. The reason I went with that spike is it kept the worm or bait on straighter than the screw types. POSSIBLY the powder-coating rounds out the cutting edges of the spike  not letting the sharp edge to grip the bait. These heads are individually powder coated so POSSIBLY some are thicker in powder or coating than others.What that might do is round out the sharp edges and thats only because that spike is thin and small compared to our rear trailer keepers on our jigs. i have also found that the screw type keeper rips baits even easier on the softer type plastics like hand-pours.

  • Super User
Posted

Out of the 3 types of keepers, the screw, small hook and post THE SCREW WINS HANDS DOWN IN TEARING THE BAITS LESS! This is after many hours of trying all 3 types, on several companies plastics and types of trailers. It's not even close between the post and the screw type for me. Of aoll the jig heads, PICASSO has the best design by far.

  • Super User
Posted
What happens on our type of trailer keeper is the angle of the cones or barbs are in an upward or forward position -like that little plastic hose fitting in that pic above. When the bait gets pushed on the keeper it goes with the grain of the rings-when pulled back they go against the grain therefore cutting into the plastic and keeping it set. What I do when applying the bait to the spike is pinch the bait to set it. I do not have it come off often. I have other fishermen say they put super glue on it. The reason I went with that spike is it kept the worm or bait on straighter than the screw types. POSSIBLY the powder-coating rounds out the cutting edges of the spike not letting the sharp edge to grip the bait. These heads are individually powder coated so POSSIBLY some are thicker in powder or coating than others.What that might do is round out the sharp edges and thats only because that spike is thin and small compared to our rear trailer keepers on our jigs. i have also found that the screw type keeper rips baits even easier on the softer type plastics like hand-pours.

  ALL OF THE FELLAS I KNOW HERE AND FISH WITH AT HOME <ALL OF THEM ( I ASKED SEVERAL ON THE PHONE LAST NIGHT) say the wire screws are so much better at securing the baits and doing less damage to them t, then this post thingy. All said they use E 2's only by putting the bait on the hook and not onto the post for this reason

Posted

I agree with Muddy on this one and am one who spoke to him about this last night.  I love the design, stand up ability, but the post is not effective. The tearing up does not bother me as much as the lack of ability to hold in place without glue.

  • Super User
Posted

I guess I'm in the minority...I have no issue with the peg.

8-)

  • Super User
Posted

You make those, I will buy them! Uncle Leo was one of 7 I called, it was 7 for 7 against the post.

Posted

These were the first models I had-the issue I had with them was screwing the baits on and I was using hand pours and other softer baits -if you didn't get it on straight the first time it would tear the bait. if it wasn't on straight the bait would spin. i really haven't had any issues with the post. I was going to bring these  out also but they cost 8 cents more per head with the screw-that is my cost -which on the retail end from stores would add about a buck per pack. I will make them . It really is the most functional shak-e made. all personal preference I guess.

  • Super User
Posted
HOW DO YA LIKE ME NOW LOL!!!!!! Some times I really scare myself

I do believe those unpainted barbs will hold very well, even on the stand alone post.

You powder coat the jig without coating the hook.  Don't know how you do it, but if you could possibly eliminate the coating on the weedless rigging post, you'd be golden.

In fact, I'd buy them uncoated.  If I want them colored, fingernail polish would do just fine, and it comes with an applicator brush that would be perfect for jig heads.

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