Another Rod Building Question.

[ChrisAW]

Over this winter, I'm planning on building a rod for jigs, since it's generally what I fish the most. I'd like to build something that fits me, and at the same time is better fit for the job than the ones I already have/are available to me at my local shops.

So what I was planning on was a 7' Heavy, and I'm planning on keeping it under $150 for everything. I've been looking around, but I'm having a hard time coming up with a real number on the price of the equipment I'll need to build it, like what kind of epoxies I'll need or threads, ect. If anyone could give me an actual list of the things I'll need other than the blank and components, I'd appreciate it greatly.

And another question, is what I'd like to do with the guides. I like micro guides. I've had less problems with my microguide rods in terms of the guides getting damaged, and they just feel smoother when pitching/casting. And, I'd also like to spiral them, as I've noticed I have less problems with braid getting wrapped around the tip when fishing smaller jigs on spinning rods. Whats your opinion on this? The only spiral guided rods I've ever seen have always been normal size guides. Would Micro's be a problem?

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Chris,

In addition to the blank you will need guides, a tip top, reel seat, size A thread rod building thread, epoxy adhesive, epoxy finish and grips. You'll need an arbor material for the reel seat. My recommendation would be a foam/graphite arbor. Spiral wrapped with micro running guides are the way I would build a jig rod. You can buy single use epoxy kits that are all measured out and ready but if you screw up or take too long you mau have to reorder to be able to finish. If you don't go with pre-measured kit you'll need syringes to measure. The mix must be perfect on the finish or it won't cure correctly. You'll need a couple cheap craft brushes to apply the epoxy. You can use the handle as a mixing stick. You can buy mixing cups or use what I use, the bottom of an aluminum soda can. Just be sure to clean with denatured alcohol. You'll need some denat and paper towels to clean up epoxy before it sets up. You'll want some rubber winding checks to finish off the grips and reel seat. You can email or call me if you want to discuss further.

Mike

[ChrisAW]

Thanks for the reply Mike. I put together a list of everything I would think I needed, plus some. I'm thinking I might try to stretch my budget a bit and get a blank more in the $100+ range, and leave whatevers left of $200 or so for the materials needed.

Thanks for your help. I'll probably read up a bit and check out some custom builds to get a real idea of what all is involved, and once I get to it, ressurect this thread if I need help.

[.RM.]

Before you start your project.

Look into getting a copy of Rod-Building Guide by Tom Kirkman.

I don't know a Custom Rod Builder that didn't start with this guide, and doesn't have a copy of it in their library.

It will get you started in rod building the right way!

Good Luck & Tight Wraps!

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

^^^^^ x2 An inexpensive must have

[MickD]

I usually estimate blank $$ + $50 using very good quality guides. If you want knots to pass through the guides, then maybe micros are not for this application. What style spiral are you thinking about? I've built spiral with the simple spiral method, and have no complaints, but I have not built simple spiral with micros. Since micros are so close to the blank, I would think a spiral might get the line into the blank a lot. With the simple spiral I would use a 5 or 6 double foot size first guide, same next guide, or whatever it would take to keep the line off the blank, and similar third guide then micros the rest of the way. Simple spiral makes the 180 degree transition in 3 guides. All the rest of the guides are not relevant to the spiral and could be all micros and should be the same size.

If you are unfamiliar with the simple spiral, go to the Rodmaker forum and search for simple spiral. In a nutshell, it uses one extra guide, the bumper (90 degree) guide half way between the butt guide and the third guide (180 degrees). All guides except the bumper (90 degrees) are located the same as with conventional winding. The bumper's only function is to keep the line off the blank, and it will be loaded exactly at the base of the ring. It should be as low and small as possible while keeping the line off the blank. One builder who has done a bunch of micros believes that the first guide should be at least a size 4 to properly accept the line off the reel- he states that size 3 micros all the way will not cast as far as when your first guide is a bigger guide, like a 5. If I were you I would get a few extra guides that would allow me to do some test casting with different setups.

My experience is that there is no advantage to doing the more progressive spirals than the simple spiral, but you will find builders who disagree. The simple spiral is the easiest to build, and it doesn't "look goofey" looking down the rod. If you use right crank reels, put the bumper on the right so that the bumper is not lying on the boat deck when you have the rod lying there, crank up.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

I lay out a spiral like this:

attach the tip top

tape on the running guides (usually micros in a size 4)and a stripper at 0*

mount the reel and run line through the stripper, runners and tip attach some weight to the line.

note where the line runs naturally around to the bottom of the blank.

Flex the blank looking for changes in line path.

Add 1-2 double foot, high frame guides along the natural path of the line. 6s seem to work for most low profile reels.

Static test for final placement.

This process ends with a line path of least resistance and most efficiency. A size 4 guide should pass a good Albright knot joining 50# braid and a 17# fluoro leader with no problem.

[Hound_dog]

Chris,

Look at Mud Hole Tackle. They will have all the equipment you need plus tons of advice on what you might need for what you are wanting to do. They have complete kits for building a rod. If this is your first rod then a kit might be the way to go to get your feet wet. A quick look in their catalog shows you can get a MHX kit for around 80 bucks.