Jig Making Questions

[614-Bass]

Last winter i got into making jigs and ran out of time come spring. Im gathering supplies to start making em again and have a few questions for you guys.

1) Last year i stupidly poured in my basement in a small room with the door open. i thinking this is a little unsafe with the fumes so if i got a fan to blow them away and wore one of those mask things would i be okay? There are to small windows but im not sure if i can open them or not.

2) i planned on tieing all my skirts this year then i got a idea to use zip ties and so far so good. Could you guys see any downsides of using them?

3)When Painting your lead how do you keep the line tie from getting closed up and after heating and dipping i hear i should still put them in the over to cure is this true? If so how long and what temp?

Thanks Guys,

Dylan

[cadman]

Dylan,

#1 I pour in the garage, in the middle of winter and there are no windows there. The fumes are not hazardous from melting lead. In order for the fumes to be hazardous, the lead has to be boiling and vaporizing. This will never happen with a hot pot or Lee IV pot as they will never get that hot for it to happen.

#2. The zip ties are fine as the fish don't care. If you are going to sell your jigs it is rather unsightly but for your own use it's fine.

#3 If you don't put on too much paint you shouldn't have a problem with your eyes closing. I normally just take a drill bit and push the paint through when the jig and paint are hot. As far as curing goes, I cure my jigs at 350 degrees for 20 minutes.

[614-Bass]

Thank you that was quick

[Jig Man]

I heat my jigs in a toaster oven usually a dozen or so at a time. I start trying them after just a few minutes. What I want is the paint to have a dull powdery look after the jig is dipped. That gives me a very thin coat and does not have enough paint to cause runs or drips when cured for 20 minutes at 350°. If the paint is shiny, I open the door and let the cool a bit before I continue dipping.

You can also build a pretty cheap fluid bed which will give you a lot thinner coat of pain vs dipping into little jars with paint that settles while you are working. If you want to build one Ted might email you a set of his instructions or I can direct you to some. Mine cost me less than $30 with enough material for 12 cups.

To keep the hook eye open I hold on to that portion of the hook with a pair of needlenose pliers or hemostats. That way the opening is covered and can't get any paint on it to begin with. Therefore, with a thin coat and an eye with no paint I rarely have to clean out anything.

[cadman]

Dylan,

You will get a lot of good answers here from people who have been doing this for awhile like Jig Man and the info he posted. What you will find is that everyone does things slightly different and all you need to do is gather all the info posted and find what works for you. Ask questions and someone will reply with an answer. BTW if you want to build your own fluid bed , IM me your e-mail and I will send you instructions on how to build one. A fluid bed is really easy to use and if you are only making single color jigs, you can't beat it for a even coating of powder and speed.

[bassmanET]

Here in Massachusetts 2012 will be lead free.

Does anyone know of any other metals I could use to pour my own jigs?

Someone told me that a tin/bismuth alloy would work?

[Jig Man]

You could use babbitt (tin, copper, antimony) if you can find it. However, it has a higher melting temp than lead and you might not be able to do it in a lee pot.

[River Rat316]

Tin bismuth is a little under 30% lighter I believe, tin is a little over 30% lighter. both would work but watch there melting temps, I believe they both melt a bit lower and dont know if powder paint works with either because of the lower temp. They also cost around $17 per pound last time I checked

[Siebert Outdoors]

Tin bismuth is a little under 30% lighter I believe, tin is a little over 30% lighter. both would work but watch there melting temps, I believe they both melt a bit lower and dont know if powder paint works with either because of the lower temp. They also cost around $17 per pound last time I checked

This is the same exact thing I found in the few I've made. You basically use the next size up in the mold for the size below it. Its close.

As for powder painting tin/bis you have to do it at approx 250 deg. anything more it will melt. Its a trial and error just like lead. Tin/bis is expensive!!!

[Timmy Tom]

Use pure tin or tin-antimony-copper mix (no. 2 babbitt lead free). The bismuth just adds cost and a lower melting temp. Pure tin at 99% melts lower then lead and as long as you do not exceed 380 f. you can still powder paint and cure. Also 1/3 lighter than lead.

TT

[geckert]

Most lead free states are lead free mostly for split shot and small jigs 1/100 -1/32 they dont want waterfowl ingesting it. ALWAYS VENTILATE PERIOD there is vapor be it minute or harmful levels from the minute lead becomes molten with an increase of vapor every degree more than that. Lead begins to vaporize at 1800 and is VERY harmful at that level. I pour over 100 pounds of lead a week sinkers and big jigs. Not worth being exposed in minute amounts because your a tough guy. Use your best judgement, better to be safe than sorry I believe.

I also recommend a fluid bed for painting you can make one pretty cheap 30-50 dollars on the high end. Just you tube it. you will never have to clean an eye hole if you use one.