A Little About Texas Rigging..

[thenameisdame]

can someone pleassssseee explain to me something about the texas rigging....

i dont understand how a fish is suppose to bite onto the hook, when its set slightly into the worm for weedless....

i started to use plastic worms, rigging them texas, and i love it.

but im scared to set the hook into the worm for weedless cus I conviced myself i would catch more with the hook already pointing out..

the odd time im still missing fish, but i couldnt imagin setting the hook to be weedless.

can someone that knows what im talking about maybe explain the pros and cons, and what to look for when setting the hook for weedless.

is it even worth it?

is the fishes bite down really hard enough to release the hook, in order to hook it?

thanks a tonssss...

ill take any information i can get

damian-

[Sam]

Set the hook hard over your head and do not allow any slack in the line as you reel in the bass.

After running the hook out of the top of the plastic, place the tip of the hook just under the skin of the worm. This will make it weedless.

Or, allow the hook to stay inside the plastic aimed at the top of the skin ready to penetrate when you set the hook.

Get some weedless hooks at your favorite tackle store and use them.

The hook will penetrate the plastic and stick into the bass' mouth when you set the hook.

Do not use a light wire hook. Use a 1/0, 2/0 or 3/0 worm hook or weedless hook.

[Sam]

Damian, use flourocarbon line and not mono.

Peg your bullet weight if you are fishing in structure.

Use a baitcaster for your Texas rigs.

Make sure the plastic is straight on the hook.

Practice, practice, practice.

[Hyrule Bass]

can someone pleassssseee explain to me something about the texas rigging....

i dont understand how a fish is suppose to bite onto the hook, when its set slightly into the worm for weedless....

i started to use plastic worms, rigging them texas, and i love it.

but im scared to set the hook into the worm for weedless cus I conviced myself i would catch more with the hook already pointing out..

the odd time im still missing fish, but i couldnt imagin setting the hook to be weedless.

can someone that knows what im talking about maybe explain the pros and cons, and what to look for when setting the hook for weedless.

is it even worth it?

is the fishes bite down really hard enough to release the hook, in order to hook it?

thanks a tonssss...

ill take any information i can get

damian-

between the bite and the hookset the hook is going to exit the worm and stick the bass in the mouth. its soft plastic, its not strong enough to prevent the hook from exiting the worm to set in the basses mouth....

[brushhoggin]

most plastics these days all but disintegrate on a hook set. its all in your head. i used to also be paranoid about this as well so set the hook like sam said and you'll be alright.

This is a great video:

 

[James Yalem]

In the days of fiberglass rods (before late 1970's) and only monofilament, you had to set the hook really hard with a texas rig worm. Guides often would set the hook for female clients. With the introduction of graphite rods it was a bit easier. Now with braided, high tech line, all you have to do is get a real good hookset. However, IMO, many anglers set the hook too soon with texas rigged plastics. I wait until I can feel the weight of the fish. Sometimes that is instant; sometimes it takes a bit of a wait. If the bass runs toward you and you just have a slack line, then reel down fast, set hard and hope.

[Packard]

I hear this every time I teach someone about T-rigging. They'll say, "I'm not hooking up on my hooksets it must be this weedless hooking it." and I'll just laugh at them and say "Believe me, it's not the way you rigged it is not the problem and if you don't like don't use it"

[Catt]

The art of feeling a worm/jig bite is a fine combination of watching your line and feeling for unnatural sensations of what your lure shouldn’t feel like. Sometimes you will feel that classic “Tap”, sometimes you’ll only see line movement, sometimes your line will simply go slack, but sometimes there will only be a feeling of heaviness that is almost like your lure will not move. The bites where the bass moves after inhaling your lure are the easy ones to feel because there is line movement, the bites where the bass simply inhales your lure and just sits there are the hardest to feel. Feeling a worm/jig bite requires keeping a certain amount of tension on your line while at the same time keeping a certain amount of slackness in your line. To the average angler this makes no sense at all but the worm/jig angler it makes total sense.

Maintain contact with your lure at all times, allow the lure to free-fall unrestricted, but without letting slack form in the line; follow your lures down with your rod tip.

Pay close attention to the depth you're fishing, any sudden change in the amount of line you're using could mean you’ve been bit. For instance, if you're fishing 6 feet of water and the lure suddenly stops at the 3 depth, it's possible a bass has taken the lure. If you're fishing 3 feet of water and 6 feet of line sinks chances are good a bass is traveling with the lure. This is extremely true on the initial drop and no line movement maybe noticed.

This is the way Shaw Grigsby put it to me, its call the three tap theory.

The first tap the bass has inhaled your worm

The second tap the bass has exhaled your worm

The third tap I'm tapping you on the shoulder asking you why you didn't set hook!

Drop the rod, reel the slack, & set the hook

[WRB]

Reread Catts reply, perfect!

The only thing I can add is;

Use premium sharp straight shank hooks like Gamakatsu #011 or #484 size 3/0 for standard size 6" to 7 1/2" worms, size 4/0 for fatter bodies worms.

Use at least 10 to 12 lb premium mono or FC line. Not a fan of braid for T-rigs.

Use a 6 1/2' to 7' medium/heavy fast action worm rod with bait casting reel. Not a fan of spinning rod/reels for T-rigs. If you use a spiining outfit, then use braid with a leader. Difficult to keep in touch with the T-rig using spinning outfits, better off using a C-rig.

Tom

[Crestliner2008]

I use the Doug Hannon approach. When the worm touches down, I start my retrieve with a serious of hops or twitches as everyone does, continually raising the rod tip. However, before reeling down, I hold at 11 o'clock and wait to feel something. Then I reel down and start moving the worm again, or set the hook!

Keeping the rod high at the end of whatever you're doing with it, has dramatically increased the number of "felt" takes for me. Just a thought.

[WRB]

Catt's reply defines the nuances of Texas rigged worms, Gelnns video shows how to rig and a picture is worth a 1,000 words.

The Texas rig worm goes way back to the beginning of organized bass fishing in the mid 60's and is a must learn technique for any serious bass angler. Unlike some lures, you need to go through trial and error to learn what works for you.

For example; I prefer using a glass faceted bead between the bullet weight and worm and shake the weight between moving the worm. Lots of ways to fish a T-rig.

[Bill Porter]

Make sure you buy good hooks, not the cheap ones at Kmart. Hooks make a HUGE difference in good hook sets using Texas Rig's. I prefer Lazer Sharp hooks (Red), 2/0 for 4 in Senkos. Spend a couple bucks on the goods ones and you'lI find way more fish on your line! If a Bass eats your bait with a good sharp hook you'll get her in the boat, I PROMISE

[Jim H.]

The thing you must remember is that if you don't set the hook immediately, there are only 3 things that is going to happen. 1) The fish will spit it out. 2) He will swallow the worm. 3) He will tangle you up in the cover. Which of those things are you waiting on?

It is anatomically true (fortunately) that Bass do not have hands. If you feel him he has to have it in his mouth. If you will set the hook 1/2 second before the bite that is just about right!