Beginner Baitcasting Tips

[josh1.9]

Hey all,

I recently bought a Shimano Citica as my first baitcasting reel. For the past few weeks I've been practicing with it, lob casting with 3 or 4 of the brakes on. Lately I've been trying get more distance with my casting, so I've been using fewer brakes (1 or none, depending on lure weight) and experimenting with different spool tension/brake combinations. I think I'm starting to educate my thumb slowly but surely. However, I've noticed that many times when casting (especially when I snap too much) 1 or 2 of the disengaged brakes engages itself mid-cast, seriously limiting my distance. Is there any solution to this? Should I take the brakes off? I experimented with this, but it seemed that removing the brakes caused an almost instantaneous backlash, but that could just be me....

Also, could significantly crimped line (as a result of weeks of consistent, artfully executed backlashing...) impede the lure's motion through the air during a cast? Could the kinks have a harder time passing through the level-wind/rod guides?

Any insight would be appreciated,

josh

[tomustang]

For me I've left 2 brakes on and don't change them around, one thing to check is to even out the brakes when you select them. The kinked line will foul your distance up, if your having too much of a problem change the line, Stren makes good line for a decent price. Another thing you havent mentioned is how your spool tension is set, it's usually best to hold your rod up and giggle it til the line gradually drops.

What line size, rod, and lure weight are you using?

[islandbass]

Learning to properly load the rod during the casting motion is always going to be superior and more efficient with less effort than snap casting.

Are you saying that brakes that are off turn on after your snap cast? That shouldn't happen but dang, you must be very strong.

That is not how centrifugal works work. The more your spool spins, the more the weight of the brake shoes that are on are going to influence the spinning of the spool. This actually spoils the angler and that is a good thing. With this braking system, assuming the reel is set to the lure, you won't even need to thumb it.

Perhaps focusing on allowing the lure's weight and the rod's ability to store and release energy should be your focus.

[pitchinthejig]

If you have the breaks clicked off and then you cast and they pop on WOW you have a hella powerful cast! must be like spool speeds of 80,000 RPMS!!!! LoL just kidding if thats happening there is something wrong with the shoes they shouldnt be able to slip past the click from casting.<br><br>If you take them off and then you are back lashing I think it because they was never off to start with you only thought they was, there is no way unless something is wrong with the post/shoes that you could engage a break that was turned off casting.

[John G]

I agree with the others. If your brakes are disengaged and they engage when you cast, you got some pretty quick wrist movement going on.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

The brake shoes that are locked in the off position can not engage themselves. The more likely cause for any sudden mid cast decrease in spool speed would be one of the kinks in the line catching, or line digging in from repeated casts being would back on too loosely. 2 0r 3 brakes on is a good set it and forget it setting. If the line is really beat you may want to cut some out but you can try this first. Pull out a bunch of line and wind it back with some good tension on the line. Pull out 2 casts worth of line, put a piece of electrical tape on the spool and wind the line back on. This will prevent a backlash from going too deep making it easier to pick out. Tie on a practice weight of 3/4 oz and practice concentrating on a smooth casting stroke. Accuracy trumps distance 90% of the time in actual fishing situations so take your time building up to that. When you start throwing actual baits keep in mind that weight, profile and wind all will affect how far you can throw and how much thumb you will need.

[josh1.9]

Alright that makes a lot of sense guys, thanks.

I'll try replacing the brake shoes and see if that makes any difference, cuz i'm definitely not throwing THAT hard...

When I was using 2 or 3 brakes, I started off using the amount of spool tension so that the spool stopped after 1/2 turn when the lure was dropped from waist length onto the floor. Then I found I could use very little spool tension by using my thumb. Is it correct that the tension mostly affects the end of the cast while the brakes affect the beginning? It did seem like most of my backlashes (when using almost no brakes) occurred at the beginning of the cast.

When practicing I took the hook off a 3/4oz dardevle, but lately on the water I've been using a 3/8oz spinnerbait. I suppose my problems have come with trying to adjust to the lighter weight, trying to find the right balance.

I'm using 14lb Trilene mono with a 7' mh berkley rod

thanks

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

You have the general idea down as far as adjusting your settings. A centrifugal brake applies in relation to spool speed. The fast the spool is turning (beginning) the more the brakes apply. The spinner bait is a perfect example of a bulky profile lure that dies quickly once launched. That's why you see line ballooning on the spool. The bait slowing down faster than the spool. A little more spool tension, easy cast and gradual release with your thumb will fix this.