Ebay User Help?

[BASSclary]

So basically I need help buying things on ebay. I always get outbid with like 3 seconds left, and put up a bigger number then them at 1 sec, and click bid and confirm, but I always end up outbit for their lower price? I figured its just the internet connection. So I tried bidding with 3 seconds left like them, and it works but then I get outbid with seemingly 0 seconds left. Its really frustrating with all these great deals

So do they know about some features of eBay I just dont? Are they using maybe a 3rd party software? I'd really like to win my next bid tomorrow, so any users that can help me out, please do!

[Packard]

I am an avid ebay buyer and seller and think I know what you are talking about.

They use a software called Auction Sniper or a simaler one. You can program it to bid what you want at the very last second and can even program it to win for you no matter what. You can get a free trial of it on their website, just google it. But it will cost you money after the trial runs out. Sad thing is that ebay just overlooks it.

[tbird]

Use the automatic bid feature and enter your maximum price you are willing to pay for the item.I have used this succesfully many times.

T

[A-Jay]

I'll place another vote for the Automatic bid feature.

You'll have to decide what you're willing to pay for the item in advance.

Once your top bid is in you may win it for less.

Drop your absolute highest bid in an automatic bid a few minutes before the auction is over, like 1 or 2 not 5 or 10. You could still be out bid but the less time you give others to hunt down your bit (and they will) the better shot you have at success.

I like e-bay, I've have had more good than bad experiences.

A-Jay

[Stasher1]

Use the automatic bid feature and enter your maximum price you are willing to pay for the item.I have used this succesfully many times.

T

This ^^^

Sniping (manually or via third-party sniping service) doesn't guarantee that you'll win what you bid on. It only works against low-ballers who bid in small increments.

If you enter your max proxy bid and still lose the item, someone else just wanted it more than you did...or they have deeper pockets.

[Triton21]

I use bidnip. Works most of the time for me.

Kelley

[J Francho]

Sniping is better for when you want to name your price, and not get into competitive bidding. Some bidders will intentionally bid you up on a an item. You also have to watch out for shill bids. Also, frequent bidding draws even more outside attention to the item, thereby attracting bids, which raises the price. Both are things you want to avoid. I never "watch" an item or "proxy bid/auto bid."

I personally use Auction Sniper. I look for a few listings of the same item, pick a price, and finally set it and forget it. Yes, you will lose auctions. But the ones you win will be ridiculous bargains. A few of my successes: BNIB Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM lens, $160. Used Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 $210. BNIB Daiwa Sol baitcaster, $84 - this was when they were relatively new. EC used TD-X103HSDL x2, $30 a piece. BNIB Daiwa Zillion, $180.

Remember, the more bids that are placed, even automatic bids, the higher the price will be. It makes NO SENSE AT ALL to "bid early and bid often" unless you are the seller.

[deaknh03]

Sniping is better for when you want to name your price, and not get into competitive bidding. Some bidders will intentionally bid you up on a an item. You also have to watch out for shill bids. Also, frequent bidding draws even more outside attention to the item, thereby attracting bids, which raises the price. Both are things you want to avoid. I never "watch" an item or "proxy bid/auto bid."

I personally use Auction Sniper. I look for a few listings of the same item, pick a price, and finally set it and forget it. Yes, you will lose auctions. But the ones you win will be ridiculous bargains. A few of my successes: BNIB Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM lens, $160. Used Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 $210. BNIB Daiwa Sol baitcaster, $84 - this was when they were relatively new. EC used TD-X103HSDL x2, $30 a piece. BNIB Daiwa Zillion, $180.

Remember, the more bids that are placed, even automatic bids, the higher the price will be. It makes NO SENSE AT ALL to "bid early and bid often" unless you are the seller.

He's right. I buy and sell a ton of stuff on Ebay, and do exactly what Jfrancho says and you will get some great deals, but you will lode a lot also. I have won pflueger patriarch xt's for $100, a couple of weeks ago I got 4 ima roumba's, 2 stacy king jerkbaits, 2 pointers, a jackall dagored, a jackall mikey, a deps buzzjet all for $50 shipped. Keep your eyes peeled and be patient. I use my bidder auction sniper, a free app, but I only use it if the bidding ends when I know I cant be online.

[J Francho]

Keep your eyes peeled and be patient.

Best advice!

[grimlin]

yeah,I use a sniper program also. Mine however costs money to use it.

I've won a few items and some decent deals with it.

[BASSclary]

why shouldn't I "Watch" an item? I figured I could just put ion the low ball bid and then put in my max price with 1 minute left. Thinking of using the snipers though. Although it seems there better if your not gonna be there. If im going to be here, should I not use it?

Edit: I just signed up with Auction Sniper and put it on there. it's currently at 36.01 with 9 hours left and 7 bids. I put a max at 50.01 and an enhancement(?) at 2 increments. I think that should do it.

[Stasher1]

Why bother with the initial lowball bid if you're just going bid your max bid later? Bids attract bidders, so the more bids are placed, the more likely it is that somebody will show up and outbid you.

Yes, the sniping services work and I've been using one (a pay service) for many years now...but as I said earlier, it's not going to guarantee a win if the other guy is willing to pay more than you are.

If I have a proxy bid of $100 on an item that retails for $30, it doesn't matter when you place your bid. Unless you're willing to shell out $101 for it (not likely), the item will be mine when the auction closes. It's the same way when sniping an auction. I have been known to place $100 snipes on $20 items just to be sure that I get them when the auction closes.

The item goes to the bidder with the deepest pockets. You have to set a realistic spending limit for each item, and not get bent out of shape if it's worth more to someone else and they outbid you.

[grimlin]

Watching an item brings unwanted attention to the item and more people will bid on it.A chance of catching a deal on it then is slim to none.I only use sniper if I'm not gonna sit around watching for it.3-4 days prior to the auction ending.

You still only have a 50/50 chance of winning an item even with sniping. Sniping nice to have if you find an item,put your max bid in and not check back on ebay again.If the price is still lower than your MAX bid,it'll put your bid in and sometimes you have a better chance of winning it.There's no guarantees.

[BASSclary]

Thanks for the explanation grimlin.

And Stasher1, I havent put my lowball in yet. I just said the price it was at and put in my max with AS. And I dont get mad or bent out of shape when I lose something because they bid more. If they bid more than I can spend I'm fine with that. ts just that I always lose with a few seconds left without a chance to bid back even way under my self imposed spending limit.

[Stasher1]

I think you're missing my point. If you bid your absolute max using Ebay's proxy bid, you can't lose the auction unless someone bids more than your max proxy bid. It doesn't matter when they bid.

http://pages.ebay.com/help/buy/automatic-bidding.html

[J Francho]

It isn't a bid until the offer is placed. With a sniping service, the bid is made with seconds to go. If you put in your max bid in early and someone bids, they will be immediately outbid and some will start to get competitive, and keep pushing towards your max bid. That is the opposite of what you want. Smart buyers aren't about winning, they are about price. That's the part some of you are missing. Yeah sure, some items are going to be bid on. A BNIB Steez that opens at $.99 isn't going for $40. But, if you find a few used reels, you might be able to get one of those three at $250. There's deals in there. You have to tune into a certain type of auction. They aren't your typical pro ebayer with 20,000 positives. Look for average joes moving stuff.

[Stasher1]

It isn't a bid until the offer is placed. With a sniping service, the bid is made with seconds to go. If you put in your max bid in early and someone bids, they will be immediately outbid and some will start to get competitive, and keep pushing towards your max bid. That is the opposite of what you want. Smart buyers aren't about winning, they are about price. That's the part some of you are missing. Yeah sure, some items are going to be bid on. A BNIB Steez that opens at $.99 isn't going for $40. But, if you find a few used reels, you might be able to get one of those three at $250. There's deals in there. You have to tune into a certain type of auction. They aren't your typical pro ebayer with 20,000 positives. Look for average joes moving stuff.

Not always the case. I've spent thousands upon thousands of dollars buying vintage motorcycle parts, and in the majority of those situation, the price wasn't anywhere near as important as winning the auction and getting that rare, discontinued, or obsolete part. In some situations, the one you're bidding on may be the only one you'll see for years, or possibly the only one left.

[J Francho]

Fair enough, but this isn't Rare Motorcycle Parts Resource

I think that's a different situation, than scoring a cheap reel or box of baits.

[deep]

He's right. I buy and sell a ton of stuff on Ebay, and do exactly what Jfrancho says and you will get some great deals, but you will lode a lot also. I have won pflueger patriarch xt's for $100, a couple of weeks ago I got 4 ima roumba's, 2 stacy king jerkbaits, 2 pointers, a jackall dagored, a jackall mikey, a deps buzzjet all for $50 shipped. Keep your eyes peeled and be patient. I use my bidder auction sniper, a free app, but I only use it if the bidding ends when I know I cant be online.

So YOU are the one who got them...

[deaknh03]

So YOU are the one who got them...

I just saw 3 roumba's go for $14 the other day, thats shipped! You just need to know where to look.

[BASSclary]

Fair enough, but this isn't Rare Motorcycle Parts Resource

I think that's a different situation, than scoring a cheap reel or box of baits.

Yeah, im not buying anything that isnt readily available.

I just want a Lacrosse head for a good price. Its normally 85, I want to spend <50

[J Francho]

Always do an advanced search for closed auctions on the item you are buying. That will give you real "high/low/mean" data.

[BASSclary]

Always do an advanced search for closed auctions on the item you are buying. That will give you real "high/low/mean" data.

The average price is about 55.

[BASSclary]

Update. I just won using Auction Sniper Hope you use your 3 new bids for something good J

Scored a Nike CEO lacrosse head (For anyone who plays and wants to know) for $51 dollars! Saved about $35 Good thing I added an increment option.

Thanks for the help guys. I never thought of looking for tackle either on eBay, I know how i'll be using a lot of money now!. There are some GREAT deals on very nice baits like Lucky Craft and Jackall, etc.