Couple Baitcast Questions

[Naters]

I'll try not to make this too long winded. A couple of years ago I got the itch to try out a baitcaster to try something new and see what all the rage was about. I didn't want to invest too much money in the event that I didn't like it, so I ended up with a combo from Gander Mountain consisting of a Gander Mountain Guide Series Competitor rod (6'6" Med. Action GSC-661CMT) paired to a Daiwa Advantage 153H7 reel. I read up on how to adjust the reel and practiced in the yard with a plug until I could at least cast it out without having a massive birds nest. No real accuracy, but I know that will come with practice. First trip out went about like this:

"Wow, this rattle trap that I can usually fling a country mile with my spinning setup goes 15ft." Then a series of birds nests resulted in the setup on the floor of the boat while I went about enjoying my spinning reel. I think I tried to use it one more time with a different type of line and didn't do much better.

Fast forward to now, it still ticks me off, and if anything I wanna figure it out just to say win, haha. Plus I figure if I can get this thing working it'll be like getting a new rig now without having to spend any money since it just sits in my basement.

So to get to my actual question.....I'm wondering if the gear that I'm trying to make work is junk, or if it's ok and I just need to put in countless hours of practice.

Second (quicker) question....After my grandfather passed a couple years ago I was given some of his fishing gear of which included his baitcast setup. It's obviously old school. A 5'6" Skyline Med. Action Rod (model CSK558 rated for 1/4 - 1 5/8 oz. lures) paired with an Abu Ambassador 5500c Reel. Is this worth messing with, or better left for display purposes only lol.

Thanks for any help/advice

[dulouz]

There is a lot of info on the web on how to set up a baitcaster. It will take time to figure out the right set up of line type/weight, lure type/weight, and rod action. I have been experimenting with these variables for a year to figure out what works best. Then practice, practice, practice. Good luck.

[ChiCityBasser]

It takes practice and as you are beginning learning to cast is important. Casting the same way you do with spinning gear usually results in a backlash if you develop a lazy thumb. I know for me I try to cast as far as possible which results in the sspool spinning faster and the resulting backlash. As dulouz said there is alot of info on the web on using a baitcaster and plenty of videos on Youtube about setting a baitcast up and using it. As you begin to learn distance is usually not the greatest but will improve with practice and it does take practice.

Good luck and keep trying it.

[new2BC4bass]

I haven't used the Daiwa Advantage 153H7, but I do have several other Daiwa models. From what reviews I could find on this reel, I don't think you need to invest in another reel to learn on. Seems to be a good reel for the money. The rod was harder to find a review on. I gathered it is a low cost rod that isn't too sensitive. May want to upgrade it later for fishing, but I don't think it is going to prevent you from learning to cast.

I started using baitcasting gear (was strictly a spinning guy) last year and still have a long ways to go, but I can tell you some of the things that I've gone through so far. I'm sure you've noticed accuracy sucks at first. It isn't going to be good for some time unless you are a fast learner. Meaning one of those lucky people with very good hand/eye coordination. If you cast right handed, then I'm pretty certain your lure was/is going way left. Release timing between the two types of reels is completely different. Practice is the only way I know of to overcome this problem.

You may be trying to cast too far. Easy lobs to start. Be smooth. Sidearm casts seems to be easier to learn with. Spool tension set to allow a slow fall with no more than one spool revolution when the lure (practice plug) hit the ground/water as most everyone suggested was too loose for me. I had to set tension tight enough so that shaking the rod tip allowed the lure to fall a short distance. Oh yeah, keep the Magforce brakes high for awhile.

The thing is these settings are going to limit distance, but also limit overruns while you're learning. I don't get to fish very much, but by the end of last year I was able to throw two handed overhead casts for what I thought was a pretty good distance. But only with lures 3/8 oz. or heavier. Light lures were still a problem. This was mostly because of the over tight spool tension although high brake settings also shorten distance. Just not as much as the over tight spool. I was able to turn the brakes down a bit after awhile.

I knew my spool tension was too high, but learned over the winter from an expert caster who did some work on my reels just how much it was affecting distance. Even he couldn't get a 1/4 oz lure past 30 feet with the reel set the way I was using it. So this spring I went the other direction. Enough tension to remove side-to-side play in the spool no matter what lure weight. This required me to learn how to cast all over again...almost. I was getting lots of overruns, but luckily only a rare bird nest.

Last year I mostly started my cast with the rod in the rear position. I knew you were suppose to load the rod on the rearward movement, but doing so often caused me trouble. Big time. I feel most of this was my lack of smoothness. I was jerking the rod on the reversal trying to accelerate the forward cast for greater distance. Had to overcome that over tight spool tension. Was fishing from shore, and was usually trying for every foot I could get.

This year I forced myself to cast loading the rod on the rearward movement. I'm certain this improves distance. Because of the very light spool tension (and my lack of experience), casting this way required smooth, not too fast, casts. By the time I got good enough to eliminate most overruns, I was getting as much distance this year as I did last year, but with less effort. I am even able to get respectable distance on underhand casts. Something I couldn't do last year.

Here is another problem I have. Casting while sitting in a boat. I can do quite well standing. Very few overruns or bird nests. Pretty good distance underhand, sidearm or overhead. Distance will only improve as my thumb gets educated enough to start lowering brake pressure. Right now it is kept on high most of the time because I am usually throwing for the moon. However, sitting and casting is tougher for me. I've only fished from 2 boats...my brother-in-law's, and my newly acquired Porta-Bote. Neither are bass boats. You sit low to the water in both.

Based on my experience, I'd say only cast while standing up unless you can fish from a bass boat where the seat is high enough so that you are almost standing anyway.

Least I forget, use a 1/2 oz. lure on that rod to learn with. Lighter lures require greater casting ability. Don't use fluorocarbon line. Too expensive to learn on. Some fluorocarbon lines are said to be springy. Not something you need at this time. Go with at least 12 lb. test line if using mono. 14/15 might be better...so I've read. I used 8 lb. on a couple reels (Fuego and Alphas ito) and 12 lb on another (50th Anniversary). Braid seems to be easier to pick out backlashes. Expensive, but I'd have to say a good line to learn on nonetheless. I'd suggest in the 40-55 lb. range. I used 40 on my STX last year.

Let me add that I am 63 now so learning for a young squirt like you should come easier.

Might be more I could add, but 1) it's past my bedtime, and 2) this is already well on its way to being book length. :lol:

[Naters]

I haven't used the Daiwa Advantage 153H7, but I do have several other Daiwa models. From what reviews I could find on this reel, I don't think you need to invest in another reel to learn on. Seems to be a good reel for the money. The rod was harder to find a review on. I gathered it is a low cost rod that isn't too sensitive. May want to upgrade it later for fishing, but I don't think it is going to prevent you from learning to cast.

I started using baitcasting gear (was strictly a spinning guy) last year and still have a long ways to go, but I can tell you some of the things that I've gone through so far. I'm sure you've noticed accuracy sucks at first. It isn't going to be good for some time unless you are a fast learner. Meaning one of those lucky people with very good hand/eye coordination. If you cast right handed, then I'm pretty certain your lure was/is going way left. Release timing between the two types of reels is completely different. Practice is the only way I know of to overcome this problem.

That's funny you bring that up. I tied a practice plug on and was out in the backyard tonight practicing. Seemed like no matter which way I wanted to cast it flew left every time. Overhand casts just buried straight in the ground lol.

I figured my gear, although not great, was at least good enough to learn on.

[.RM.]

I'll try not to make this too long winded. A couple of years ago I got the itch to try out a baitcaster to try something new and see what all the rage was about. I didn't want to invest too much money in the event that I didn't like it, so I ended up with a combo from Gander Mountain consisting of a Gander Mountain Guide Series Competitor rod (6'6" Med. Action GSC-661CMT) paired to a Daiwa Advantage 153H7 reel. I read up on how to adjust the reel and practiced in the yard with a plug until I could at least cast it out without having a massive birds nest. No real accuracy, but I know that will come with practice. First trip out went about like this:

"Wow, this rattle trap that I can usually fling a country mile with my spinning setup goes 15ft." Then a series of birds nests resulted in the setup on the floor of the boat while I went about enjoying my spinning reel. I think I tried to use it one more time with a different type of line and didn't do much better.

Fast forward to now, it still ticks me off, and if anything I wanna figure it out just to say win, haha. Plus I figure if I can get this thing working it'll be like getting a new rig now without having to spend any money since it just sits in my basement.

So to get to my actual question.....I'm wondering if the gear that I'm trying to make work is junk, or if it's ok and I just need to put in countless hours of practice.

Second (quicker) question....After my grandfather passed a couple years ago I was given some of his fishing gear of which included his baitcast setup. It's obviously old school. A 5'6" Skyline Med. Action Rod (model CSK558 rated for 1/4 - 1 5/8 oz. lures) paired with an Abu Ambassador 5500c Reel. Is this worth messing with, or better left for display purposes only lol.

Thanks for any help/advice

Try this great reading Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101

Plus Practice! Practice!

[Fishes in trees]

Second question first. That Skyline rod is a good rod. Mid to late 70's that was as high a tech rod as you could get. As I recall, Skyline was a Texas company and they went out of business when Berkley got serious about making affordable, decent quality graphite rods. I think that the guys who founded Skyline also went on to found All Star Rods, but I'm not certain about that. That is also a decent reel. I'd get it professionally serviced, that will cost, but it will restore it to pristine condition. Maybe your grampaw retired this reel because he wore out the bearings in it, and should you get a it professionally serviced, you'll find that out. It is worth putting new bearings in it. Slap some 17 or 20 pound line on this and you've got a great spinner bait setup, and it will also work great throwing buzz baits or spooks. I think it is much easier to throw and work spooks on a short rod.

For the first question, your rod and reel setup is ok, you've just got to practice. Buy a bulk spool of 14 pound line so you won't care so much when you back lash. A side effect of learning how to cast is that you will get real good at putting line on your reel. Remember that everyone on this site who uses bait casting equipment went through a learning curve and messed up a number of spools of line. Should you come across some spare money, I'd recommend a rod & reel upgrade. A Shimano Calcutta 200 TEGT with any 7' MH fast tip rod will be an improvement.

Lastly, you might want to learn how to pitch. I think it is an easier to learn wrist movement, and you're not really concerned with distance. You very seldom have to pitch at anything farther than 40 feet or so. I learned bait casting prior to learning how to pitch. A decade or so ago I decided I needed to learn how to pitch and the process of retraining my thumb to deal with pitching improved all my bait casting skills. I had to unlearn some habits I developed casting overhanded and side arm, but it was worth it. For the most part my casts land much quieter now.

[B-Dozer]

Not familiar with the Daiwa reel you mentioned, but I have quit a few of the Abu-Garcia C series reels. When clean a lubed properly they are a great reel. Not a fan of the shorter (5'6") rod you have, but it should do til you get some practice in, then you might move up to a longer rod. Read RM link to reel set up, and take his advice on practice. You-Tube has plenty of videos on bait-casters and Abu-Garcia. Good luck and don't get discouraged.

[BobP]

I have a couple of friends who grew up fishing spinning rods but eventually wanted to get into baitcasting. Two things figured into them becoming successful. First, you need to start with a good reel and you get what you pay for. Modern reels have better controls, are built to better tolerances, and they just work smoother with fewer backlashes. I've been throwing a baitcaster for 25 years now and wouldn't dream using an Abu 5500 for anything but striper trolling! The other thing is learning how to cast a baitcaster, and that is quite different. With a spinning reel, the line is coming off the spool in good order no matter what crazy casting motion you use or how hard you swing it. But a baitcaster requires a smooth, controlled casting motion. Every time. When you develop one, you can dial down most of the cast control and brakes and get surprisingly long and accurate casts with not much effort. When you are first learning, the tendency is to apply way too much cast control and brake. Don't want to risk a frustrating backlash, right? Then to get reasonable casting distance, you try to overpower the cast and voila - a giant backlash.

[B-Dozer]

I have a couple of friends who grew up fishing spinning rods but eventually wanted to get into baitcasting. Two things figured into them becoming successful. First, you need to start with a good reel and you get what you pay for. Modern reels have better controls, are built to better tolerances, and they just work smoother with fewer backlashes. I've been throwing a baitcaster for 25 years now and wouldn't dream using an Abu 5500 for anything but striper trolling! The other thing is learning how to cast a baitcaster, and that is quite different. With a spinning reel, the line is coming off the spool in good order no matter what crazy casting motion you use or how hard you swing it. But a baitcaster requires a smooth, controlled casting motion. Every time. When you develop one, you can dial down most of the cast control and brakes and get surprisingly long and accurate casts with not much effort. When you are first learning, the tendency is to apply way too much cast control and brake. Don't want to risk a frustrating backlash, right? Then to get reasonable casting distance, you try to overpower the cast and voila - a giant backlash.

Wow! I better stop throwing weightless Zoom trick worms and weightless tubes on my Abu, and get one of dem "modern" reels

[dodgeguy]

That's funny you bring that up. I tied a practice plug on and was out in the backyard tonight practicing. Seemed like no matter which way I wanted to cast it flew left every time. Overhand casts just buried straight in the ground lol.

I figured my gear, although not great, was at least good enough to learn on.

your releasing late

[breezy]

You may be trying to cast too far. Easy lobs to start. Be smooth. Sidearm casts seems to be easier to learn with. Spool tension set to allow a slow fall with no more than one spool revolution when the lure (practice plug) hit the ground/water

...

Least I forget, use a 1/2 oz. lure on that rod to learn with. Lighter lures require greater casting ability. Don't use fluorocarbon line.

Some good tips in this post but IMO these are some of the most important. First make sure you are using AT LEAST 3/8oz and preferably 1/2oz to learn on..it's just a lot easier to cast a heavier bait. Also I would recommend using mono around 10-14lb. It's cheap if you need to cut a spool off and more manageable than fluoro.

Second, if you cast a spinning rod with a quick snap of the wrist and try to do this on a BC with no previous experience you're probably going to backlash. Start with a sidearm lob casts and be very smooth. You may only be casting 20-30ft at first but keep backing off the brakes and/or applying more force and distance will increase.

It does take time to really master a baitcaster, but if you spend days and never get a decent cast something is wrong. Your reel is not adjusted properly, casting technique is way off, etc. If you know anyone who can use a baitcaster then see if they will spend some time with you; they may be able to notice something you can't. Get the basics down and learn how to make a decent cast without a backlash then slowly educate your thumb and back off the spool tension and brakes.

your releasing late

x2. Assuming you cast with your right hand you're releasing too late.

[new2BC4bass]

But a baitcaster requires a smooth, controlled casting motion. Every time. When you develop one, you can dial down most of the cast control and brakes and get surprisingly long and accurate casts with not much effort. When you are first learning, the tendency is to apply way too much cast control and brake. Don't want to risk a frustrating backlash, right? Then to get reasonable casting distance, you try to overpower the cast and voila - a giant backlash.

Too true! I hoped that people would be able to read between the lines of my post. Heavy spool tension and lots of brakes allowed me to cast with very few backlashes when I started, but were the wrong way to go. In fact, they extended my learning curve, because I had to do a fair amount of practicing all over again this year after backing way off on spool tension. I realize I am going too loose for my skill level, but would rather spend a little more time now getting my casts down. But maybe I'm only extending the learning curve again. What say you?

Setting spool tension as described by many, practicing more than I did...using smooth easy casts, would have gotten me further down the road to becoming a good caster.