midnighthrasher Posted July 11, 2011 Posted July 11, 2011 When flipping or pitching plastics do you peg your bullet weights or not? If you do what are you pegging with? Quote
Super User slonezp Posted July 12, 2011 Super User Posted July 12, 2011 If you're going to peg, just invest in some Florida rig weights. They have a screw spring built in. Quote
Red Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 I peg most of the time. I fish very heavy timber and find I get hung up less with the weight pegged. Quote
Super User Sam Posted July 12, 2011 Super User Posted July 12, 2011 Peg always. Bullet Weight T-Stops. Quote
Super User .ghoti. Posted July 12, 2011 Super User Posted July 12, 2011 I always peg, with these; http://www.***.com/Danielson_Rubber_Bobber_Stops_10pk/descpage-DANBOBR.html Quote
Lucas412 Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 I always peg, with these; http://www.***.com/Danielson_Rubber_Bobber_Stops_10pk/descpage-DANBOBR.html Yup I use these too. They work great. Eagle Claw sell the same thing at Dick's for around $1.50. I find that I get a lot less false bites when using them. Quote
Al Wolbach Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 I peg and still use toothpicks.............Al Quote
Super User J Francho Posted July 12, 2011 Super User Posted July 12, 2011 I peg and still use toothpicks.............Al I've gone back to them. They still work the best, and contrary to what many believe, they do not nick the line. Heck, I peg beads on 4# fluoro for double digit steelheads in winter. A puny bass on 20# fluoro isn't going to break the line. Quote
tholmes Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 I peg and still use toothpicks.............Al Yep. Old school, but it still works. tom Quote
JoePhish Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Rubber bobber stops for me. I always have the opition of moving it up the line if I don't want it pegged for that particular cast. Quote
Super User clayton86 Posted July 12, 2011 Super User Posted July 12, 2011 Rubber bobber stops for me. I always have the opition of moving it up the line if I don't want it pegged for that particular cast. Ditto that and if I'm gonna tie a jig on I slide it up tie the jig then slide it back down so it doesn't hit the guides iv got the same peg I started the season out with hundreds of fish and lures later. Quote
A-Rob Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 bobber stoppers for $1 I peg whenever I'm pitching to cover like cane, bullrush, heavy weeds, timber. I don't peg my worms and other things that will be going to minimal cover Quote
flippin and pitchin Posted July 13, 2011 Posted July 13, 2011 Any time the bait has to penetrate the cover the weight is pegged. I insert a section of dried spagetti noodle in the angle hair pasta size so when it absorbs water it expands, is soft and won't nick my line. Just kidding. Bobber stops for me too. 1 Quote
Super User RoLo Posted July 13, 2011 Super User Posted July 13, 2011 Whenever we hear the name “Texas-rig”, we tend to picture a loose hook and a loose bullet sinker. But in that scenario, the fisherman maintains positive contact with the bullet sinker, but indirect contact with his lure. While the sinker may be on the bottom, the trailer could be 3 feet above bottom, but there's nothing to report their separation. As for pegging with a toothpick, that's just a primitive fix in my opinion. . Although a separate hook and weight is the most popular version of a "T-rig", it's not the version I normally use. In the natural lakes of Florida, the lure spends the bulk of its time in vegetation. For this reason, I like to rig the plastic trailer on a Z-bend jighead instead of a loose hook. This permanently joins the hook with the weight, but is nonetheless a Texas-rigged soft-plastic. The T-rig was originally referred to as a "self-weedless" rig, distinguishing it from a lure with a weedguard. Since the sinker and trailer never part company, “pegging” is never necessary, and wherever the jighead goes, so goes the lure. Roger Quote
Super User Catt Posted July 13, 2011 Super User Posted July 13, 2011 I normally don’t disagree with ya Roger but have ya seen a Texas Rig underwater? That infamous separation we have all come to believe in aint there; when it is its inches not feet. We recently had a poll here where everyone listed their preferred bullet weight size & I believe the size was ¼ oz or less. A ¼ bullet weight weighs about the same as a plastic whatever with a hook inserted, as the Texas rig falls through the water column the angle from the rod tip to the entry point creates enough pressure to hold the weight & lure close together. Even when worked up & over a limb the separation aint there because the average angler fishes the Texas rig so fast it barely has time to settle to the bottom after being hopped. Quote
Super User Catt Posted July 13, 2011 Super User Posted July 13, 2011 I had friend who is a Physics professor (an avid angler) at McNeese State University run a computer program in which he put in the following statics. Height from the deck of my boat to the surface of the water Height of the angler (me @ 6’) Height of the tip of my 6’ 10” rod when held @ the 10:30 position Angle of the line from the rod tip to the surface of the water on a 30’ cast Weight of the bullet sinker ¼ oz Weight of a Gene Larew 7 ½” Salty Ring Worm Weight of a Mustad 3/0 Denny Brauer straight shank flipping hook Depth of the water 12-15’ Factored in the resistance of the friction caused by the line through the bullet weight (don’t know how he got this) on free fall (no tension on the line). Factored in the resistance of water on the Texas rig as it falls through the water column After running the simulation dozens of times the greatest length of separation was 13” on the initial drop, once the rod tip was lifted the first time that distance closed to zero. Quote
Super User ww2farmer Posted July 13, 2011 Super User Posted July 13, 2011 Pegged in heavy cover, unpegged every where else. Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted July 13, 2011 Super User Posted July 13, 2011 Get some of these Sinker Stops: http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_44440____SearchResults Quote
Super User RoLo Posted July 17, 2011 Super User Posted July 17, 2011 I normally don’t disagree with ya Roger but have ya seen a Texas Rig underwater? That infamous separation we have all come to believe in aint there; when it is its inches not feet. It's not the difference between 13 inches and 1 yd, it's the difference between pegging and not pegging (as per topic). My post was meant to enlighten those who may not realize that T-rigging is possible with a jighead and doesn't require a loose hook. The upshot is twofold: 1) Permanent union between hook & weight 2) Never a need to peg Roger Quote
Locked Posted July 17, 2011 Posted July 17, 2011 I use toothpicks to peg every bullet weight, unless I'm using it on a carolina rig. I'd like to thank this forum for that trick btw. I've noticed that not pegging your weight will cause it to slide down the line on the fall and let your plastic fall almost as if it's weightless. I have no doubt there is a time and place for this, but I usually control the rate of fall with the weight and hook size. Quote
Locked Posted July 17, 2011 Posted July 17, 2011 I had friend who is a Physics professor (an avid angler) at McNeese State University run a computer program in which he put in the following statics. Height from the deck of my boat to the surface of the water Height of the angler (me @ 6’) Height of the tip of my 6’ 10” rod when held @ the 10:30 position Angle of the line from the rod tip to the surface of the water on a 30’ cast Weight of the bullet sinker ¼ oz Weight of a Gene Larew 7 ½” Salty Ring Worm Weight of a Mustad 3/0 Denny Brauer straight shank flipping hook Depth of the water 12-15’ Factored in the resistance of the friction caused by the line through the bullet weight (don’t know how he got this) on free fall (no tension on the line). Factored in the resistance of water on the Texas rig as it falls through the water column After running the simulation dozens of times the greatest length of separation was 13” on the initial drop, once the rod tip was lifted the first time that distance closed to zero. That does not take into account subsequent drops of the rod tip. It also doesn't factor in letting the bait fall on slack line. Quote
Super User Catt Posted July 17, 2011 Super User Posted July 17, 2011 Yes Roger I agree it’s not the difference between 13 inches and 1 yd; it's the difference between pegging and not pegging (as per topic). But the reasoning behind pegging is because many anglers believe the separation between the bullet weight & the lure is in feet when in fact it is not. They also believe that separation causes the line between the bullet weight & the lure to become tangled when 9 out of 10 times it is the tail or tentacles on the lure that wrap. I also agree with using something similar to Owner’s Sled head™ eliminating the need to purchase bullet weight, whatever to peg it with, plus the time need to insert the peg. Locked, first off one should never allow a lure to fall on slack line! Second “Factored in the resistance of the friction caused by the line through the bullet weight (don’t know how he got this) on free fall (no tension on the line).”, that my friend means slack line. Third, “That does not take into account subsequent drops of the rod tip”, each subsequent drop of the rod tip should not be more than a foot or two off the bottom. Quote
TimJ Posted July 17, 2011 Posted July 17, 2011 always pegged. until this year, always a toothpick but the stopper is now in play. Quote
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