Spark Plug Brands

[Sfritr]

I am not a mechanic so I will leave this question to the group:

Is there a noticeable difference in spark plug brands?

I recently changed the spark plugs in my boat (which were champion). When I went to purchase them at auto zone they gave me NGKs and said this was the replacement spark plug for my champion brand. What is the difference? They look the same except the NGKs have a threaded end and the Champions are flat.

Does one brand produce more spark??

[Al Wolbach]

As long as the plugs are gapped the same they should spark the same.

When you talk of the "flat end and threaded end", I assume you are talking about the end that attaches to the spark plug wire. If the new plugs did not come with a flat end, unscrew the flat end from the old plugs and screw onto the new plugs.

Did you gap the new plugs?

If anyone can explain this better, jump in please...

[royal0014]

Well, you didn't say what engine you have, so.....

There is more to it than making spark. Some engines are actually very picky about the plugs they will run. If your engine manu. says you can use NGK's, then by all means run 'em. Personally, if it came with Champions, I'd stick with them.

Never let the counter-monkeys make a decision for you. All they know is what the computer tells them....

[Sfritr]

The motor is a 96 Johnson 150. Sorry. My question was I have seen ads for Champion and other brands I just was curious is one is better than the other. Kinda like cola, you have coke, pepsi, RC, and big K. All are colas but is one better than the other?

[Al Wolbach]

It's a Ford Vs Chevy thing, which is best? However, it is a good practice to run the plug that was original equipment for your outboard.

[junebugmn]

It's a Ford Vs Chevy thing, which is best? However, it is a good practice to run the plug that was original equipment for your outboard.

I was told that champion's have a "smaller" electrode which is more resistent to fouling than ngk's, as for your johnson they usually run better on champion's, that's what I ran in my 150 when I had it. Junebugman

[bass or bass ?]

I have found that my 1967 Evinrude Starflite 80 runs best on Champions.

[Way2slow]

I usually stick with the OEM plugs, which is Champions in OMC's. Just like I don't run Autolites in GM's and don't run AC Delco's in Fords. There are slight differences in plugs from different manufactor's and those differences can sometimes cause you problems. Not saying the NGK's won't work fine but if you start running into performance problems or fouling, those would be the first thing to go.

I personnaly don't like NGK's and don't run them in anything. If going with another brand, I usually go with Bosch or Denso's. Even then you might have to play around with heat ranges just a little to get the right burn.

[Sfritr]

Thanks Way2 slow

good to see you around.......

Unfortunately, I think my problems are bigger than originally expected. I changed the plugs only to find out that my battery is shot. It was due to be replaced soon anyway, about 5 years old. Also, I think it may be a fuel pump or something larger. Hopefully, I didn't burn up a powerhead in the process. I have been told that these are fairly easy to blow in VRO motors. Gonna take her in to a certified person before I make it worse

[Way2slow]

It's easy enough to make a quick check on your own. Buy you one of those cheap $10 comression guages and make a quick check. I think that motor should have approx 115 pounds but that's not totally important right now, just so it's above 100. All you are really wanting to do right now is to see if they are all within about five and not more than 10 pounds of each other. If the bottom two are about the same but a little lower, that's also normal.

If you do the compression check, pull the kill switch so it won't fire, open the throttle and only take one plug out at the time. It will kick the bendix out every time it hits on the tester if you take all six out.

If the one on the top right (looking from the back of the motor) is way low, then you can start crying. Here's a link to a problem those motors have http://www.mar-fab.com/MarFab_Tech_Bulletins_D9579.pdf You need to read the lower TB. If water starts getting into the cylinder, it can lean it out enough that it melts the piston.

I guess first I should ask, why do you think there's a problem. A bad battery is not going to damage the powerhead. The motor does not even use the battery once it's started. You could throw the battery in the trash once it's running and performance wise, it would never know the difference. What a bad battery can do is cause the Rectifier/Regulator to go bad or the Stator or even both. Neither of these are parts you want to be replacing, they will take a big bite out of your fishing budget and even some out of your grocery budget. That's why I say don't screw around with a questionable battery. You can buy a whole bunch of new batteries for what it will cost the fix the damage one questionable battery can cause. Also, never jump one off or let the charging system charge a dead battery.

[Sfritr]

This entire issue stemmed from a previous posting "Lost my Mojo"

I was running my boat at WOT and it suddenly lost power, going from 5000RPMs to around 3000. By the time I got to the dock the motor would only run(poorly) in idle. When I put her in gear she would stall. It was like I was only running on one plug. Once I pulled the plugs they were fouled. So, I changed the plugs. This whole thing has gone over a few weeks as I have been too busy to mess with it. Put the motor on the muffs the other day and found my battery was dead. I charged it but it wouldn't hold a charge. The motor seems to be cranking but it didn't have enough to fire. Fast forward to today, I will check the materials you listed and giver her a look before doing anything else.