Storage For Boat?

[tntitans21399]

I just got a new boat, mainly upgrading the engine but I may upgrade the boat all together and go with the newer boat style. The newer boat is a 1985 14.5ft with a 75HP Mariner compared to a 1972 16ft with a 55HP Chrysler. I will add pics, but I can tell right off the bat the newer boat with go a lot faster (bigger/newer engine and a lot lighter). It takes a lot of strength just to lift the front of the trailer with the old boat and the new boat I can actually push it around by hand (well I am 6ft 250lbs). I will have to swap over a lot of things from the the old boat to the new boat. Like the trolling motor, all the wiring (I had power block and fuse block for everything electrical), and the new boat the wires needed to be redone. It was a crazy mess. Boat the biggest thing I will miss with the old boat and I am trying to figure out with the new boat is the storage issue. The old boat had a front compartment door that you could store a ton of things up front under the fishing deck. But the new boat doesn't. What has everyone else done about storage (tackle bag/net/etc..)? Has anyone cut a hole in the drop down area to the front fishing area to store things up front (bumpers, life vest, etc..)? Also would that weaken the fishing deck to much if you did? If anyone has any pics of storage ideas or any storage ideas that would be great.

Thank You

Chris

[Fishing Rhino]

I can't give you a definite answer, but that area below the front deck of the newer boat may include a flotation chamber. It may even be filled with foam. In any case, it appears the only place there would be enough depth to hold any amount of storage would be a narrow area in the center of the deck.

You might be able to put another forward deck above the existing deck. Then you could put access hatches and use the space between the decks as storage. It would be a major project to make it fit properly to the sides of the boat, but it's an option. You'd want to make it as light as possible, while having enough stiffness and strength to mount the forward seat, without upsetting the balance of the boat.

Could you justify the expense when you take into account the value of the boat as is? These are things you need to consider.

One other thing concerns me. Why the concrete blocks on the front of the trailer with the newer boat? It looks like the trailer was made for a larger boat. The bunk the boat rests on extends what looks to be a couple of feet forward, beyond where it contacts the hull.

I believe one third of the weight of the package should be at the hitch. It looks like that rig, without the block would have no weight, or very little on the tongue. Is it possible to move the boat forward by moving the winch forward? As it sits, the trailer does not match up with the boat.

[tntitans21399]

That might be more then I want to spend. I kind just have to adjust to the lack of storage but will gain speed and hopefully fuel mileage.

The blocks on the trailer is to keep it down. With out them the boat flips back from the weight of the engine. I think the trailer is made for a boat up to 16 ft, but this boat is 14.5ft. If I moved the boat forward then the back of the boat wouldn't line up to the back of the trailer. I'm not sure about the boards under the boat, they do seem very long. The carpet on the side rails needs to be replaced badly, wood good just not the carpet. I just wonder if a previous owner replaced the boards under the boat and just used some long boards they had sitting around the house and just never got around to adding the carpet. The boat was only $950 which the engine is well worth that.

[Fishing Rhino]

I suspected as much with the concrete block(s) on the tongue of the trailer. That's why I asked about moving the boat forward. The other solution is to move the axle back, but that would be an expensive process.

It's not safe to tow any trailer that would tilt backward like you describe. When you think about it, it is taking weight off the tow vehicle, and transferring it to the trailer's axle and tires.

That reduces the traction and braking ability of the rear wheels on the tow vehicle.

For rod storage, consider racks that you can mount on the left side of the boat. It's not the best, but it's better than having them bounce around, possibly getting underfoot.

Good luck with your rig. I hope it provides you many hours of enjoyment.

[Glenn]

Bass Pro Shops has 100% waterproof bags in various sizes. They're essentially duffel bags where you can store anything in them. Yes, they take up some space, but it's a quick, cheap fix.

[CFFF 1.5]

The reason you can move the new boat by hand is because there isn't any weight on the tongue of the new boats trailer. Like the previous poster said you need to fix the trailer issues to have at least enough weight on the tongue of the trailer that you don't need a cinder block to weigh it down.

[FD.]

I agree with Rhino. The new boat should be moved forward on the trailer until you get at least 200-250 lbs on the tongue. Tongue weight and balance are serious issues when it comes to handling the boat on the road. A trailer with the weight to far back will tend to fishtale at highway speed and can get away from you in a hurry.

As far as storage goes, Glenn's idea is probably the best short term fix. I would fish it for a while and maybe even trim down what you keep in the boat.

[tntitans21399]

The boat on the trailer isn't a issue. It tilts up by the push of a finger but also tilts down to the ground by a push of the button so it's not lifting the truck or anything like that. More of a perfectly balanced on the trailer.

I did find a spot in the front side compartment where I can move a side wall down & get to the area up front. I can put bumpers & life vest (the ones no one uses but to make you legal for passengers) up there.

[reo]

The boat on the trailer isn't a issue. It tilts up by the push of a finger but also tilts down to the ground by a push of the button so it's not lifting the truck or anything like that. More of a perfectly balanced on the trailer.

I did find a spot in the front side compartment where I can move a side wall down & get to the area up front. I can put bumpers & life vest (the ones no one uses but to make you legal for passengers) up there.

That IS an issue and a dangerous one to you, your passengers and others on the road! Tounge weight should be approx. 10% of total boat and trailer weight or fishtailing and loss of control (as was stated) of the trailer becomes a very real possibility. Please do a google search and see for yourself.

Best of luck with the new rig!

reo