Siebert Outdoors Posted April 27, 2011 Posted April 27, 2011 Alright guys. I feel ashamed of even asking this question but I've always had an issue with this. When throwing a T rig, how the heck do I keep it from constantly getting hung? For some reason I constantly get hung up. I can free it 99% of the time out of the boat but its just a hassle. If I switch to a jig, c rig, or any other rig I dont hang. A little help please. Bait doesnt matter not does the hook style. I have noticed a J bend hook hangs less then a WG for me. Quote
Uncle Leo Posted April 27, 2011 Posted April 27, 2011 Seems odd that the percentage is so high but you do need to get down and stay down where the fish are. I use the lightest weight possible to make bottom contact and normally getting hung up in some weeds that are easy enough to pull free of. maybe lighten up on the weight some. Quote
Super User Hooligan Posted April 27, 2011 Super User Posted April 27, 2011 Are you rigging exposed? Quote
Super User Jigfishn10 Posted April 27, 2011 Super User Posted April 27, 2011 Hmmm...what are some of the typical t-rig components are you using...type of: weight, soft plastic, hook? Are you bringing the soft plastic up and over the eye of the hook burying the knot? Maybe post a pic of a typical t-rig set-up you use. EDIT: BTW, Good question Hooligan Quote
collegefishing12 Posted April 27, 2011 Posted April 27, 2011 Try tungsten weights maybe? They are a bit smaller and should get through "stuff" easier. But it don't sound like size is an issue (as you don't get hung w. crigs or jigs) so maybe it is the amount of weight being used. Out of three, I've often found Texas rigging to be less likely to produce snags. Unless you are "exposed" Quote
Super User Jigfishn10 Posted April 27, 2011 Super User Posted April 27, 2011 Collegefishing12 brings up a good point GMAN, I know you like your 1/2oz weights in jigs and spinnerbaits, are you using a 1/2oz sinker on your t-rig? LOL Quote
Siebert Outdoors Posted April 27, 2011 Author Posted April 27, 2011 Well, heres more tech info from this Hooligan. LOL I'll try and post a pic later. Weight is typically 1/8,3/16,1/4. Most of the time it is tungsten bullet weight. I will use a standard gamakatsu widegap typically 3/0-4/0 or a Round bend worm hook same size. Baits include beavers, craws, lizards and worms. Most sizes range from 4-7" in length. The hook point is not exposed through the plastic. Tip of point might slightly be at times. Most of the time not though. Hope this helps, and thanks for the info. Quote
Super User deaknh03 Posted April 27, 2011 Super User Posted April 27, 2011 What are you fishing thru? Rocks? Weeds? Wood? Are you dragging the bait? Hopping it? Quote
brushhoggin Posted April 27, 2011 Posted April 27, 2011 offset wide gap hooks really help in keeping it from snagging. also when you feel a pad stem or whatever it is youre snagging, pull it gently to pull it past the stem, more pressure only increases your chance of bringing the hook out of the plastic and hooking the vegetation. as for not getting hung with a carolina rig, i'd imagine a big weight on a carolina rig would clear the path for the bait on the way back to the boat. and the jig, well, they don't call it weedguard for nothing Quote
Super User Alpster Posted April 27, 2011 Super User Posted April 27, 2011 I will use a standard gamakatsu widegap typically 3/0-4/0 or a Round bend worm hook same size. Without starting a hook war on this thread, try using a 2/0 straight, shank offset hook. You just don't need the huge wide gap hooks. If you are fishing in thick cover, try pegging the weight or switching to an Owner slider head, or Charlie Brewer slider. Just try it! Ronnie Quote
matstone7 Posted April 27, 2011 Posted April 27, 2011 It sounds to me like you drag your bait which imo, is great. If that is the case, this example may help. If not, the example may still help. Example: while fishing the bottom with a T/rig, I personally drag my baits more than hop them. My drag retrieve is a low rod tip to the side, sort of 9 to 3 o'clock if you can imagine. The bait is dragging fine then suddenly, something changed, an obstruction of a sort has stopped the movement. Before I tug hard, I change the direction of my line tension to up rather sideways. This subtle change often is enough to get it goin' again. This subtle change works real well while fishing standing grass without clogging up with grass, of course in grass, I fish with a hi rod tip and often need to change to a sweep to get it going again. Hope you get it figured out Gman. Quote
Siebert Outdoors Posted April 28, 2011 Author Posted April 28, 2011 Thanks guys. Thinking about this a little more I do drag but I drag using the rod from about 9-11 oclock. This could very well be my problem. I'm mostly fishing rock and brush. Very little vegetation. I fish a t rig the exact same way I fish a jig. That might be part of my problem. I'll try the different hook (straight shank) and even a little smaller one and also try the side drag. If its not t storming this weekend will be perfect. I'm fishing a place that has alot of rock and brush. Alot of the brush might be coming from a non pegged weight like said above. It could be causing a pendulum effect or such. I'll peg also. Alpster, I've got some of those slider heads. I use them alot and some reason when I do I dont hang as much. So thinking even more its in the weight to worm area I'd say. Time to experiment. Quote
BIG M Posted April 28, 2011 Posted April 28, 2011 Try pegging the weight down tight to the head of the worm. I use a tooth pick for that job and it works pretty well. Quote
collegefishing12 Posted April 28, 2011 Posted April 28, 2011 As a side note, who all fishes their t-rig's "unpegged." I have always heard that this is a better presentation because the fish will not feel the weight when they bite. Is there any truth to this assertion? I have almost exclusively fished pegged baits, but if there is an advantage I would certainly like to know Of course, this is something I would only try in open-water scenarios. Quote
Super User Alpster Posted April 28, 2011 Super User Posted April 28, 2011 As a side note, who all fishes their t-rig's "unpegged." I have always heard that this is a better presentation because the fish will not feel the weight when they bite. Is there any truth to this assertion? I have almost exclusively fished pegged baits, but if there is an advantage I would certainly like to know Of course, this is something I would only try in open-water scenarios. I never peg a bullet sinker unless there is a specific reason to do so. Snagging in thick cover being the most common reason. I've gotten into the habit of changing to a slider head hook instead of pegging. Works better and is more reliable. Ronnie Quote
The Bassinator Posted April 29, 2011 Posted April 29, 2011 As a side note, who all fishes their t-rig's "unpegged." I have always heard that this is a better presentation because the fish will not feel the weight when they bite. Is there any truth to this assertion? I have almost exclusively fished pegged baits, but if there is an advantage I would certainly like to know Of course, this is something I would only try in open-water scenarios. If a fish will eat something like a jig that has a hard head on it I don't it would have an issue eating a bullet weight. The bullet weight was designed to slide freely on the line so when you fight the fish it has less leverage to throw the bait off. Hope this helps Quote
Super User Catt Posted May 1, 2011 Super User Posted May 1, 2011 I personally drag or hop my Texas rig the same way with my rod tip by moving it from 9 o'clock to 10 o'clock to 11 o'clock to 12 o'clock, three movements. Keep in mind these movements are not exactly dead on 9, 10, 11, & 12 because when I reach the top I'm more of an 11:30 than 12 o'clock. I think most people have a problem with hang ups is because they apply to much pressure once they feel the t-rig make contact with some thing. Once contact is made stop & shake your rod tip very slightly, if this doesn’t free it add a little more pressure & shake again. If this fails add a little more pressure & release repeating until it works free. As far hooks, straight shank round bend #1 & #2 off set round bend far anything the thickness of a 6” Senko. As far pegging my weight that's easy, I don't; the actual distance between your weight & plastic is not as far as people believe. That distance is quickly closed once you start to move your lure & if you dragging your t-rig the gap does not open up again. Yea but Catt if your working brush the weight will be on one side of a limb & your plastic will be on the other. Once you feel contact with a limb either don’t stop or yo-yo it back & forth slightly with enough pressure to cause the t-rig to flip over the limb. Quote
collegefishing12 Posted May 1, 2011 Posted May 1, 2011 If a fish will eat something like a jig that has a hard head on it I don't it would have an issue eating a bullet weight. The bullet weight was designed to slide freely on the line so when you fight the fish it has less leverage to throw the bait off. Hope this helps Even if a fish is shaking its head and throwing up a good fight, will a pegged weight really give it any leverage? I under stand that weight in general gives fish leverage, but when that weight is above the hook isn't leverage really a non-issue? The way I think about it is that the only leverage the fish will have is the hook, as any additional leverage is lost where the hook is tied to the line. Accordingly, when a fish fights and shakes its head the weight that is pegged above the knot will have no effect of giving the fish leverage, right? I understand this would be alot different if this was one of those setups where the hook and sinker are all one. Quote
B A S S E R Posted May 2, 2011 Posted May 2, 2011 i have more of an issue getting snagged with jigs. i feel like I am always getting snagged on logs and stuff when fishing jigs compared to a t rig Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.