Super User Bassn Blvd Posted April 5, 2011 Super User Posted April 5, 2011 Is it possible to extend the handle to my Loomis cranking rod an additional 3-4 inches? For some reason, Loomis makes the handles on their cranking rods too darn short. I was thinking you could epoxy a piece blank into the butt section or will that not work? And NO, I'm not buying a different brand rod. Quote
Chris Posted April 5, 2011 Posted April 5, 2011 yes that will work or part of an old rod handle. Quote
smbrule Posted April 5, 2011 Posted April 5, 2011 I've extended a number or rod handles. If the inside diameter of the rod at the butt end is large enough to take a decent size piece of old rod that provides the extension with the least amount of added weight. You will have to add a little bit of masking tape around the junction area to provide an even taper. Usually I will use a light wall brass wall tube available at hobby stores that handle model airplane kits. Once I get the butt cap off and cut off the cork underneath it I take the brass tube and cut notches in it. Then by constantly turning the tube under the cork at the butt you can get the tube inserted three or so inches over the rod end. It does take some effort to do it. Then I epoxy the tube to the rod. After epoxy has cured cut off the tube to the length of the handle need. Quote
Super User Bassn Blvd Posted April 5, 2011 Author Super User Posted April 5, 2011 Thanks for the help. I was concerned about applying pressure to the extended area, but i'm only going to touch that era when casting.. Quote
Siebert Outdoors Posted April 5, 2011 Posted April 5, 2011 I think your very complaint is why they came out with that deep flex rod. I have a CBR in the 7'6" and its the same exact way. The handle needs about 4" more length. Quote
ejtaylor822 Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 Couple of things to keep in mind. Inner "sleeving", that is having the extension inside the blank, is the approach I would take. I believe a much more solid union can be made with the extension inside the blank for this kind of work. That is if you are not removing the cork. However, even if the cork is being removed, the inner sleeve is favored with about 4" to 6" internal past where the union occurs. Still easier (for me) to get a good solid tight fit with the extension inside the blank. Second, any modifications that are made to the rod will void any and all warranties from the manufacturer. Just something to keep in mind with upper end rods that have a (limited) lifetime warranty. Thanks, Eddie Quote
Super User .dsaavedra. Posted April 6, 2011 Super User Posted April 6, 2011 could you do the inner sleeving thing like eddie is talking about then put new cork rings on the new extension and sand them down to match the existing handle? or were you already planning on doing this and i'm just dumb? Quote
Super User Alpster Posted April 6, 2011 Super User Posted April 6, 2011 If another 3" would be enough to meet your needs, another option would be to add a "fighting butt". This would be easier to install and would make the rod look like much better than patch job. Here's a link to a picture of what I mean and where to get it. http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/Cork-Fighting-Butts/F5-Fighting-Butt This could work also.... http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/Fighting-Butt-Extension-Stem-Piece Ronnie Quote
rubba bubba Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 could you do the inner sleeving thing like eddie is talking about then put new cork rings on the new extension and sand them down to match the existing handle? or were you already planning on doing this and i'm just dumb? I think he was just asking how he can do it. What you just described is definitely the preferred route, so you are dead on. He'll have to do some sanding/removing of the cork/butt on the Loomis rod to make it look seamless. Quote
Delaware Valley Tackle Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 Here's another vote for an inner sleeve. Match the taper as best you can to get a solid fit without forcing it and at least 3" inside. 4-6" is even better but probably not critical for a short extension. Quote
Super User Bassn Blvd Posted April 10, 2011 Author Super User Posted April 10, 2011 could you do the inner sleeving thing like eddie is talking about then put new cork rings on the new extension and sand them down to match the existing handle? or were you already planning on doing this and i'm just dumb? That would be exactly what I'm looking for. I would prefer the extension goes inside the blank and then add cork rings to the extension. I'm not too concerned about voiding the warranty. G-Man- The rod I'm talking about is the deep flex 7'6" Don't know why they made the handle so dang short. DVT or anyone else- Can you perform the needed modification? Quote
Super User MickD Posted April 14, 2011 Super User Posted April 14, 2011 I suggest you cobble a temporary extension on with the length you think you want and try it out. If the handle gets too long it could snag clothing at your elbow. If you pivot the rod around the reel "twitching" the lure, the butt goes by your elbow on the inside. You don't want to "overachieve" and then cut it back off. Quote
Delaware Valley Tackle Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 That would be exactly what I'm looking for. I would prefer the extension goes inside the blank and then add cork rings to the extension. I'm not too concerned about voiding the warranty. G-Man- The rod I'm talking about is the deep flex 7'6" Don't know why they made the handle so dang short. DVT or anyone else- Can you perform the needed modification? I'd love to help you out with this, but ot be honest, the shipping on a 7'> rod exceeds $25 each way and may be prohibitive. Labor and materials $35. Quote
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