Line shy bass?

[IntroC]

Was curious if you guys that fish clear lakes with heavy fishing pressure have ever noticed bass being line shy and if using mono or flouro has ever made a difference in getting more bites? Thanks fellers.

[IntroC]

Was curious if you guys that fish clear lakes with heavy fishing pressure have ever noticed bass being line shy and if using mono or flouro has ever made a difference in getting more bites? Thanks fellers.

[IntroC]

Was curious if you guys that fish clear lakes with heavy fishing pressure have ever noticed bass being line shy and if using mono or flouro has ever made a difference in getting more bites? Thanks fellers.

[evrgladesbasser]

It makes a big difference in my opinion. I have my spare spools filled with fluoro for those exact conditions. The braid I usually use doesnt cut it in clear water.

[evrgladesbasser]

It makes a big difference in my opinion. I have my spare spools filled with fluoro for those exact conditions. The braid I usually use doesnt cut it in clear water.

[evrgladesbasser]

It makes a big difference in my opinion. I have my spare spools filled with fluoro for those exact conditions. The braid I usually use doesnt cut it in clear water.

[Bankbeater]

I have noticed that too. I thought I would try braid for jigs fishing instead of mono, but the bass wouldn't touch the bait. I retied the same jig on a rig with 15 pound mono and started getting bites again.

[Bankbeater]

I have noticed that too. I thought I would try braid for jigs fishing instead of mono, but the bass wouldn't touch the bait. I retied the same jig on a rig with 15 pound mono and started getting bites again.

[Bankbeater]

I have noticed that too. I thought I would try braid for jigs fishing instead of mono, but the bass wouldn't touch the bait. I retied the same jig on a rig with 15 pound mono and started getting bites again.

[SeanW]

I prefer fluoro most of the time in the Cal Delta. The fish there and many of the places I fish get line shy. For jigs though I can get away with fishing heavier line no problem. 25lb 100% or 15lb 100% fluoro. If Im fishing deeper, like down beyond 35 ft Ill use 10-15lb Big Game in green. We are talking jigs here. If IM drop shotting its always fluorocaron, somewhere between 6lb and 25lb depending on what Im doing and where. Once Im over 15 I go right to 25lb. I do use 20lb big game too.

[SeanW]

I prefer fluoro most of the time in the Cal Delta. The fish there and many of the places I fish get line shy. For jigs though I can get away with fishing heavier line no problem. 25lb 100% or 15lb 100% fluoro. If Im fishing deeper, like down beyond 35 ft Ill use 10-15lb Big Game in green. We are talking jigs here. If IM drop shotting its always fluorocaron, somewhere between 6lb and 25lb depending on what Im doing and where. Once Im over 15 I go right to 25lb. I do use 20lb big game too.

[SeanW]

I prefer fluoro most of the time in the Cal Delta. The fish there and many of the places I fish get line shy. For jigs though I can get away with fishing heavier line no problem. 25lb 100% or 15lb 100% fluoro. If Im fishing deeper, like down beyond 35 ft Ill use 10-15lb Big Game in green. We are talking jigs here. If IM drop shotting its always fluorocaron, somewhere between 6lb and 25lb depending on what Im doing and where. Once Im over 15 I go right to 25lb. I do use 20lb big game too.

[goblue]

in many lakes in socal the water is gin clear and the fish are really pressured. fluoro seems to be the standard for lots of folks down here, and 6lb test is really common. on tough bites i head down the the dangerous territory of 4lb fluoro, but I do notice a major difference in bites. landing them is another story...

[goblue]

in many lakes in socal the water is gin clear and the fish are really pressured. fluoro seems to be the standard for lots of folks down here, and 6lb test is really common. on tough bites i head down the the dangerous territory of 4lb fluoro, but I do notice a major difference in bites. landing them is another story...

[goblue]

in many lakes in socal the water is gin clear and the fish are really pressured. fluoro seems to be the standard for lots of folks down here, and 6lb test is really common. on tough bites i head down the the dangerous territory of 4lb fluoro, but I do notice a major difference in bites. landing them is another story...

[Sam]

If the bait does not look "natural" to the bass they will not hit it.

This is why we use a "leader" when fishing braid in certain situations.

This is also the case for using either a clear, green or smoke, etc., colored line.

I have actually seen a bass swim up to a bait; look at the line coming off it; and then swim away. That means that it was time to use a clear line.

Then again, I use braid on frogs and jigs and the bass knock them silly.

Go figure?        

[Sam]

If the bait does not look "natural" to the bass they will not hit it.

This is why we use a "leader" when fishing braid in certain situations.

This is also the case for using either a clear, green or smoke, etc., colored line.

I have actually seen a bass swim up to a bait; look at the line coming off it; and then swim away. That means that it was time to use a clear line.

Then again, I use braid on frogs and jigs and the bass knock them silly.

Go figure?        

[Sam]

If the bait does not look "natural" to the bass they will not hit it.

This is why we use a "leader" when fishing braid in certain situations.

This is also the case for using either a clear, green or smoke, etc., colored line.

I have actually seen a bass swim up to a bait; look at the line coming off it; and then swim away. That means that it was time to use a clear line.

Then again, I use braid on frogs and jigs and the bass knock them silly.

Go figure?        

[SENKOSAM]

I'm not a big believer in line diameter as a fish turn-off, but I do strongly believe that the wrong design or size lure can be a problem for less than aggressive fish. There are many rules for using various line diameters and types and I agree that each has its place, but one key rule I go by is the smaller the lure or deeper the depth, the lighter the line test for the best lure action.

Using 20# test mono for a 1/16 oz jig or small dropshot finesse lure is counterproductive because everything about the lure and its action is subtle and slow. Even using small lures with faster retrieves on more aggressive fish requires smaller diameter line IMO.

I wouldn't use large diameter line on X-Raps. for instance - it would mute the action. But for large deep dive crankbaits, I have no problem using 17 lb test Trilene XT when trolling.

If fish are pressured or need a bit of harrassment, small lures and line to match present a complete compatibility of parts which is always required for most set ups. Hook size matches bait size; line size and type accomodate the best action and speed of the bait. You don't put oversized hooks on soft plastics and neither would you use too small or too large a diameter line on large baits that fish are hitting.

Every year I see bluegills bite my blue line near the surface when I use poppers. I don't have a clue why, but if fish thought the line threatening, how come so many fish of different species hit baits on 12# test flourocarbon ice fishing? The lateral line easily detects the line and the eyes detect the hook but the fish thinks nothing of it.

And maybe that's my point - fish don't think - they react - sometimes slower, sometimes faster.

FrankM

[SENKOSAM]

I'm not a big believer in line diameter as a fish turn-off, but I do strongly believe that the wrong design or size lure can be a problem for less than aggressive fish. There are many rules for using various line diameters and types and I agree that each has its place, but one key rule I go by is the smaller the lure or deeper the depth, the lighter the line test for the best lure action.

Using 20# test mono for a 1/16 oz jig or small dropshot finesse lure is counterproductive because everything about the lure and its action is subtle and slow. Even using small lures with faster retrieves on more aggressive fish requires smaller diameter line IMO.

I wouldn't use large diameter line on X-Raps. for instance - it would mute the action. But for large deep dive crankbaits, I have no problem using 17 lb test Trilene XT when trolling.

If fish are pressured or need a bit of harrassment, small lures and line to match present a complete compatibility of parts which is always required for most set ups. Hook size matches bait size; line size and type accomodate the best action and speed of the bait. You don't put oversized hooks on soft plastics and neither would you use too small or too large a diameter line on large baits that fish are hitting.

Every year I see bluegills bite my blue line near the surface when I use poppers. I don't have a clue why, but if fish thought the line threatening, how come so many fish of different species hit baits on 12# test flourocarbon ice fishing? The lateral line easily detects the line and the eyes detect the hook but the fish thinks nothing of it.

And maybe that's my point - fish don't think - they react - sometimes slower, sometimes faster.

FrankM

[SENKOSAM]

I'm not a big believer in line diameter as a fish turn-off, but I do strongly believe that the wrong design or size lure can be a problem for less than aggressive fish. There are many rules for using various line diameters and types and I agree that each has its place, but one key rule I go by is the smaller the lure or deeper the depth, the lighter the line test for the best lure action.

Using 20# test mono for a 1/16 oz jig or small dropshot finesse lure is counterproductive because everything about the lure and its action is subtle and slow. Even using small lures with faster retrieves on more aggressive fish requires smaller diameter line IMO.

I wouldn't use large diameter line on X-Raps. for instance - it would mute the action. But for large deep dive crankbaits, I have no problem using 17 lb test Trilene XT when trolling.

If fish are pressured or need a bit of harrassment, small lures and line to match present a complete compatibility of parts which is always required for most set ups. Hook size matches bait size; line size and type accomodate the best action and speed of the bait. You don't put oversized hooks on soft plastics and neither would you use too small or too large a diameter line on large baits that fish are hitting.

Every year I see bluegills bite my blue line near the surface when I use poppers. I don't have a clue why, but if fish thought the line threatening, how come so many fish of different species hit baits on 12# test flourocarbon ice fishing? The lateral line easily detects the line and the eyes detect the hook but the fish thinks nothing of it.

And maybe that's my point - fish don't think - they react - sometimes slower, sometimes faster.

FrankM

[BobP]

The only opinions you're gonna get are based completely on anecdotal evidence - the worst evidence - so you have to draw your own conclusions.  I fish clear water often and use fluorocarbon for most presentations.  If there MAY be a correlation between line visibility and bites, I want every advantage I can get.  So yeah, I believe it.  If Joe Blow doesn't, that's OK as long as he's happy.  I think most pro fishermen have firmly bought into "less visible line = more bites", and I think that's indicative of something real.  But it's still just opinion. 

[BobP]

The only opinions you're gonna get are based completely on anecdotal evidence - the worst evidence - so you have to draw your own conclusions.  I fish clear water often and use fluorocarbon for most presentations.  If there MAY be a correlation between line visibility and bites, I want every advantage I can get.  So yeah, I believe it.  If Joe Blow doesn't, that's OK as long as he's happy.  I think most pro fishermen have firmly bought into "less visible line = more bites", and I think that's indicative of something real.  But it's still just opinion. 

[BobP]

The only opinions you're gonna get are based completely on anecdotal evidence - the worst evidence - so you have to draw your own conclusions.  I fish clear water often and use fluorocarbon for most presentations.  If there MAY be a correlation between line visibility and bites, I want every advantage I can get.  So yeah, I believe it.  If Joe Blow doesn't, that's OK as long as he's happy.  I think most pro fishermen have firmly bought into "less visible line = more bites", and I think that's indicative of something real.  But it's still just opinion. 

[Fish Chris]

For a long time, I used braid, tied straight to my hook or lure. I finally switched to using a fluorocarbon or straight mono leader.... But NOT, because of the visibility factor to the fish. My #1 and 2 reasons for the mono leader, is that mono / fluoro are more abrasion resistant around sharp rocks, and bass teeth, and also, because a few feet of mono gives you just a little bit of a shock absorber, when used in conjunction with virtually zero stretch braid.

BTW, nearly all of the waters I fish for bass are very clear, and highly pressured, yet I saw almost no difference in my amount of bites, after going from straight braid, to a mono / fluoro leader.

Of course I will still always use a mono leader, but again, not because of visibility issues.

Peace,

Fish