BigMouthBasstard Posted August 30, 2010 Posted August 30, 2010 I am currently trying to expland on my fishing limitations and have began to punch thick grass mats on lakes that look like a soccer field in summer. I want to punch bc you cant fish much else but a frog and I haven't been getting a reaction from the topwater frogs due to the thickness of the mats. I would like to know what people are using as far as weights, hooks, rubbers, and skirts. I am currently using a 7'9" heavy action st croix with 65lb. power pro, a 1oz weight with a gami superline EWG 3/0 hook and a berkley chigger craw. I researched and saw some special flipping hooks and punching skirts that could be used. are the skirts necessary and why would i need the big barb on the top of a non-ewg hook? I just want to know what some guys that have been successful at this technique are running, and some tips for getting the bait all the way to the bottom. I seem to have some trouble even with the big weight. Quote
backwater4 Posted August 30, 2010 Posted August 30, 2010 A larger size hook might be necessary, but the punch skirts are not. Being that you using 65lb braid and fishing really thick stuff, a larger heavy duty flippin hook might hold the fish better. I normally use around a 4/0-5/0 depending on the bait size. I know guys swear by punch skirts, but I'd rather fish the way your doing it. A 3/4-1oz tungsten weight, 4-5/0 flippin hook and a brush hog or 7" power worm is my choice. Quote
Super User SoFlaBassAddict Posted August 30, 2010 Super User Posted August 30, 2010 The punch style skirts aren't a necessity. They came from the popularity of throwing jigs into really heavy cover. The problem with a jig is that you tend to hang if you're working in really thick stuff light mats. The skirt gives you the bulk of a jig, with a fairly weedless bait if you hide the hook in the plastic. The barbs on hooks are primarily there to hold the plastic on the straight shank hooks. You can also use a toothpick run through the plastic and the hook eye to do the same thing. Make them yourself if you want to use the barbs, it's far cheaper. Gamakatsu released a hook at ICAST that I've been playing around with making my own for a while. It's basically a metal barb heat shrunk to the hook shank instead of just the heat shrink pulled into a barb shape. It definitely holds a little stronger. Weights: Use something big enough to get you through the surface layer of the mat. After that, you may need to shake the rod tip a bit to get the lure completely through the vegetation. I like tungsten primarily because its much more compact, and it is far more sensitive than lead. Hooks: I like using a straight shank hook for flipping. Really, I like it for all plastics. The hook up ratio is much better with them. Even more so if you snell the hook. Lots of guys like the Mustad Flipping hooks. I use the Owner XXX straight shanks. Take your pick. As long as you buy a good quality hook you should be fine. Size all depends on the lure being used. One hook that I've really had a lot of success with lately has been a Gamakatsu Octopus hook. You can get a hook with a large bite in a small package. It's great for smaller baits. When you snell it properly, the hook will shoot out to the side on the hookset. Lures: Really any soft plastic will do. I prefer lures like the Gambler BB Cricket, Sweet Beavers, Rage Craws, various creature baits, and other compact plastic lures. Quote
fishinflip415 Posted August 31, 2010 Posted August 31, 2010 Go to YouTube and search bub tosh, punching you will get plenty of videos of how we punch out here in the west. 8-) Quote
gobig Posted August 31, 2010 Posted August 31, 2010 You are going to get some mixed views on this one. I like using the Bub Tosh (pay check baits) method. IMO the skirt is not just there to give you the bulk of a jig. The bead acts as a buffer between the hook eye and the weight and helps prevent line breakage. The shape of the bead also helps the hook cam out better in tandem with a Snell knot for better hook ups. Make sure you use a hook with a welded eye. You also may need to go with more weight if its real thick (I go up to 2oz for some applications). If your shore bound you may have trouble getting some of the fish out of the grass with out being able to go in after them. Remember that when punching there is still a Top, Middle and bottom of the water column. The bite will not always be on the bottom. Fish will suspend right below the mat. Sometimes the key is to work your bait against the under side of the mat. Fish the lake in the same locations you would if there were no grass. Fish will still relate to structure. Quote
Super User Catt Posted August 31, 2010 Super User Posted August 31, 2010 Don't over-complicate theory and technique. K.I.S.S. Quote
Super User fishfordollars Posted August 31, 2010 Super User Posted August 31, 2010 Don't over-complicate theory and technique. K.I.S.S. X2 Whatever it takes to allow it to break through the top layer. We even pitch the lures straight up to give the lure a little more punching power without having to upgrade the weight. Good luck Quote
SoFl-native Posted August 31, 2010 Posted August 31, 2010 I am currently trying to expland on my fishing limitations and have began to punch thick grass mats on lakes that look like a soccer field in summer. I want to punch bc you cant fish much else but a frog and I haven't been getting a reaction from the topwater frogs due to the thickness of the mats. I would like to know what people are using as far as weights, hooks, rubbers, and skirts. I am currently using a 7'9" heavy action st croix with 65lb. power pro, a 1oz weight with a gami superline EWG 3/0 hook and a berkley chigger craw. I researched and saw some special flipping hooks and punching skirts that could be used. are the skirts necessary and why would i need the big barb on the top of a non-ewg hook? I just want to know what some guys that have been successful at this technique are running, and some tips for getting the bait all the way to the bottom. I seem to have some trouble even with the big weight. The trouble with the EWG is that the bend that holds the bait in place also catches on things as it falls through cover. Try a flipping hook....a straight shank with a keeper of some sort. Trokar and Gambler have worked for me. Also use a bobber stop in front of the weight. Quote
piscicidal Posted August 31, 2010 Posted August 31, 2010 I agree, Dale. Use a heavy diameter 5/0 straight shank hook, instead of EWG. If you are tieing the hook straight to braid MAKE SURE the hook is welded as mentioned above...I've had big fish pull braid thru the junction of the eye. One thing I have been doing lately which has helped me is tieing a short piece of leader material (~12", #30 flouro) to the main braid. This has three effects...1.) you get the added abrasion resistance of flouro 2.) the leader material is very stiff and helps prevent the weight from wrapping around the line as you're flipping 3.) the junction knot acts as a natural bobber stop, pulling the bait down. This allows the weight to go thru itself first, then the falling momentum of the tungsten weight can help pull the hook/bait thru the slop. One more benefit...the flouro leader material is big enough in diameter...you won't have to worry about pulling thru the eye if you don't have welded eye hooks. At times, I prefer this method of using the small flouro leader. I think the fish hang onto the bait a little longer, not having the bait directly pegged to the heavy weight. And this setup provides a little more natural action to the bait (think unpegged versus pegged T-rig). Quote
CAdeltaLipRipper Posted September 1, 2010 Posted September 1, 2010 dude nice ;D i was just about to post this topic cause i wanted some tips on punching Quote
KansasBassin Posted September 1, 2010 Posted September 1, 2010 This is a really nice thread guys. I have been passing by a bunch of mat lately for cleaner water, I am going to pay more attention to it next time and use some of these tips. Thanks. Quote
BigMouthBasstard Posted September 1, 2010 Author Posted September 1, 2010 "One thing I have been doing lately which has helped me is tieing a short piece of leader material (~12", #30 flouro) to the main braid. This has three effects...1.) you get the added abrasion resistance of flouro 2.) the leader material is very stiff and helps prevent the weight from wrapping around the line as you're flipping 3.) the junction knot acts as a natural bobber stop, pulling the bait down. This allows the weight to go thru itself first, then the falling momentum of the tungsten weight can help pull the hook/bait thru the slop." The leader knot really makes me nervous. what know should i be tying for a line-to-line application. Quote
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