Need some advice taking fishing photos

[Vinny Chase]

I just purchased a Cannon PowerShot SX120 camera which i was hoping would take better quality pictures when fishing. I have used it would other nature shots and they are amazing but when it comes to this compared to my last one for fish photos there isnt much difference. Can anyone give some advice as far as setting i should try out?

Thanks,

VC

[WRB]

Remember where the sun is relative to you and the bass. Back lighting and shadows are always a problems in bright sun. The automatic outdoor setting works good and if back lighting or shadows are a problem, try forcing the flash.

WRB

PS; your avatar picture looks good, nice bass!

[Nibbles]

Selecting the right ISO setting is also very important. I would google up a guide on how to adjust it to take better pictures according to how much sunlight you have.

[Bass_Akwards]

If you want to post some of the weaker pictures you've taken with your new camera, or PM me with them, I'll be happy to tell you exactly what you did wrong, and how to fix it so you can learn from it, and do better next time.

[Vinny Chase]

If you want to post some of the weaker pictures you've taken with your new camera, or PM me with them, I'll be happy to tell you exactly what you did wrong, and how to fix it so you can learn from it, and do better next time.

Thanks alot Bass_Akwards

Here is one i actually caught today. I want the picture to focus more on the fish and make it show its true size. This fish was a monster but it doesnt live up to its size in the pic. The quality too is not that great. I had it on AUTO setting and it was somewhat cloudy out.

[Rory_MO]

What I've found is the more pictures you take, the more quality ones you're going to come out with.

[Bass_Akwards]

If you want to post some of the weaker pictures you've taken with your new camera, or PM me with them, I'll be happy to tell you exactly what you did wrong, and how to fix it so you can learn from it, and do better next time.

Thanks alot Bass_Akwards

Here is one i actually caught today. I want the picture to focus more on the fish and make it show its true size. This fish was a monster but it doesnt live up to its size in the pic. The quality too is not that great. I had it on AUTO setting and it was somewhat cloudy out.

On a cloudy day like that, you want to think about using your flash. This will give you better color saturation. It will also take the shadows out of play. As you can see, your face is nicely exposed, but the basses darker colors get lost in the image. If you had a flash this wouldn't happen. When you set your camera on auto, your camera has to make a choice on its own what part of the picture it wants to expose for. In a contrasty image (lots of highlights AND darker areas in the same photo) like the one you posted the camera gets fooled. It doesnt know if you want it to keep the shutter open longer, to expose the darker areas of the image more, or if you want it to close the shutter faster, so it doesn't "burn out" the highlighted areas of the image and make them all over exposed.

When you use a flash in a photo like the one you posted, the camera exposes for the flash on auto. Or at least it should. This means the camera reads that you set it to auto, it reads that the flash is on, and it exposes the photo for the light from the flash, not from the sun or other lighting source.  Some cameras do thjs and some don't, but I think yours does..

Secondly, the flash will help you see the bass against the dark background of your shirt.(or dark background trees and other dark stuff) If there's a sunny day and you dont need flash, always be paying attention to your background so you don't drown out the bass. Dark fish against a dark background it not good.

Third, use your zoom lenses to get a tighter shot of yourself, or move closer to your camera when taking a photo like you posted. This way you get a better idea of how big the fish is.

Fourth, ALWAYS, take a few shots and not just one. I dont care if it's a fish or a baseball game or family portrait, always take a few shots, with different angles and different positions. In other words, hold the fish vertically and get a couple pics. Hold it horizontally and get a couple, hold it so the tail is in the lower right of your image and the head is in the upper left. Shoot the fish with a regular 50mm lens and shoot it with a shorter lens. Hold the bass close to your body, and hold it further away from your body. Experiment! It might seem like a lot, but you can take a handfull of shots like this with different angles and lenses and poses in under 60 seconds once you know what you're doing. After you get home you'll be glad you snapped off a few different ones you can show off to people. After a while, you'll start to get it dialed in so you only have to take a couple shots because you know exactly what you are looking to do from looking at all the past pictures you've taken.

Also, go to a local camera store and have them teach you how to use your camera on manual. Have them teach you what your ASA, your F-stops, and your shutter speed are and how to use them together to make the camera work it's magic.

I had to go to school for 4 years to learn how to take nice images and use a camera properly, so don't get discouraged at first, you'll learn it soon enough and be kicking axss with it soon after that.

Lastly, I really really suggest you go to the store, or look on the net for fishing magazines. Look at the covers of the magazines. Look inside the magazines. See how pro photographers shoot shots of KVD or other anglers holding a fish after he caught it. Notice the angle of the fish in the image, notice how close or far away the fish and the angler are from the cameras lens. Pay attention to these images, study them, and remember them for when you catch your next basszilla.

Hope this helped a little. If I didn't do a good job explaining something, just let me know and I'll try and explain it better. If you have any other questions, or if there's something I didn't answer, again, just let me know.

[SirSnookalot]

I've yet to be impressed with any digital camera, right now I have a fuji fine pix s 7000 and a canon a 590is, ok for snapshots.  When I want a quality picture I take out my 40 year old Nikon f1 or Canon FTB, match needle 35 MM with a host of interchangeable lenses, the depth control & stop action is amazing.  I hate the pause on a digital, pressed shutter to actual snap of the picture.  I can't speak to a slr digital, I don't have one.

[CAdeltaLipRipper]

pull a roland martin and hold the fish up till its almost touching the lens for the bigger effect hahaha

[Vinny Chase]

I will definitely work on using the flash more on cloudy days. I think it just comes down to me wanted to get the fish back in the water so quickly i don't have time to experiment but i could just hold another object and try it out.

I took my previous photo and enhanced it on photoshop

[koulaid]

For me. I set my iso to the lowest i can. Bring the Exposure up 1 or 2 notch if the day is cloudy not. Always take a pic with the sun facing you and not behind you or to the side of you. Take close pics. And as bill dance would say: Hold the bass out further and they will look like monsters. Here's an example:

Sun is behind me:

Sun is on the side:

Sun in front:

You can really tell the difference although my camera i had with me that day is only a 5mp camera.

[SirSnookalot]

For posting pics on the internet you do not need a camera with a lot of mp.  More mega pixels are for printing enlargements like 8x10 and larger, 12 mp great for posters.  Most cameras today are just fine for internet posting.

[Fat-G]

koulaid- Megapixels only matter if you're going to enlarge the image significantly, or do a major cropping. Good advice on sun angles.

Vinny- I use the same camera for fishing pictures. A good setting for pictures is the Shutter Speed Priority. On a sunny day, set the ISO to 80 or 100, flip up the flash, and set the shutter speed to at least 1600. The SX120 IS has a cool timer feature on it called FaceSelf-Timer. When the camera detects a face, it will take however many pictures you set it to (1-10). It's a good thing to use. You can press the capture button and get set-up in the position you want, then look at the camera so it detects your face. I set it to 10 pictures, so you can get alot of the fish-holding positions, ie. vertical, horizontal, diagonal, etc. With the flash, there is about a 3 second delay between pictures, so you can change grip, hands, fish position, etc. If you're not confident in the set of pictures you took, do it again.

I have found the pictures I take under trees (shade) to come out better. The bright-sun photos make my shirt blurry. I'll have to figure that out.

Oh, also, like Bass_Akwards was saying, the background really is what makes the fish blend in or really "pop". Wearing a black or dark green shirt is going to "ruin" the picture. Colors like purple (that's why I always wear the baseball shirts for my school), yellow, blue, grey, red, etc. are going to be much better than dark colors.

Hope this helps some, Bass_Akwards is the expert on this!

[D4u2s0t]

For me. I set my iso to the lowest i can. Bring the Exposure up 1 or 2 notch if the day is cloudy not. Always take a pic with the sun facing you and not behind you or to the side of you. Take close pics. And as bill dance would say: Hold the bass out further and they will look like monsters. Here's an example:

Sun is behind me:

Sun is on the side:

Sun in front:

You can really tell the difference although my camera i had with me that day is only a 5mp camera.

Just so you guys know, mp's are not everything... It mainly means how big you can print a clear picture. I have a 6mp camera that will wipe the floor with many 10 or 12mp cameras. More mp does NOT always mean better picture.. just learn how to use the camera better, and you'll get better pictures. It's like looking at cars, the car with the most horse power is not necesarily the fastest... same thing with the cameras.

[SirSnookalot]

Setting 1600 speed opens the aperture to a wide setting, giving more depth of field, could be why your shirt is blurry ( out of focus), no need for that much speed for a still photo.  Set your camera on aperture mode and experiment until find the correct f stop to get in focus what you want.  Low f stop like f2.0 wider opening more depth of field, f11 or your highest on that camera, small lens opening almost everything is in focus.  Your camera will select the correct speed.  Higher number f stop is a slower speed, conversely low number is a faster speed, it's all about balance, the proper amount of light entering the camera.  Nothing wrong with slower speed as long as there is no camera shake.  I prefer using the view finder over the lcd display, holding the camera at arms length can create more camera shake.

I prefered the old match needle cameras bit faster and easier to set, but the cameras were real heavy.

[Fat-G]

Setting 1600 speed opens the aperture to a wide setting, giving more depth of field, could be why your shirt is blurry ( out of focus), no need for that much speed for a still photo. Set your camera on aperture mode and experiment until find the correct f stop to get in focus what you want. Low f stop like f2.0 wider opening more depth of field, f11 or your highest on that camera, small lens opening almost everything is in focus. Your camera will select the correct speed. Higher number f stop is a slower speed, conversely low number is a faster speed, it's all about balance, the proper amount of light entering the camera. Nothing wrong with slower speed as long as there is no camera shake. I prefer using the view finder over the lcd display, holding the camera at arms length can create more camera shake.

I prefered the old match needle cameras bit faster and easier to set, but the cameras were real heavy.

It will be on a tripod.

I'll go try the ap. mode now. Thanks dude. 

[Fat-G]

Just got back. The aperture priority mode worked very well. The highest setting the SX120 IS has is f8.0.

I tried that with the ISO on auto, the exposure (I think? It's the +/- symbol) on 0 at first, with flash. The pics were still very bright,. so I changed the exposure to -1.6. That helped a lot.

Thanks guys, I'll try some different settings too.

Vinny, I hope it doesn't seem like I'm hijacking the thread. I'm learning too

[Vinny Chase]

Just got back. The aperture priority mode worked very well. The highest setting the SX120 IS has is f8.0.

I tried that with the ISO on auto, the exposure (I think? It's the +/- symbol) on 0 at first, with flash. The pics were still very bright,. so I changed the exposure to -1.6. That helped a lot.

Thanks guys, I'll try some different settings too.

Vinny, I hope it doesn't seem like I'm hijacking the thread. I'm learning too

No worries at all dude you are helping me out a lot we well

[Bass_Akwards]

Setting 1600 speed opens the aperture to a wide setting, giving more depth of field, could be why your shirt is blurry ( out of focus), no need for that much speed for a still photo. Set your camera on aperture mode and experiment until find the correct f stop to get in focus what you want. Low f stop like f2.0 wider opening more depth of field, f11 or your highest on that camera, small lens opening almost everything is in focus. Your camera will select the correct speed. Higher number f stop is a slower speed, conversely low number is a faster speed, it's all about balance, the proper amount of light entering the camera. Nothing wrong with slower speed as long as there is no camera shake. I prefer using the view finder over the lcd display, holding the camera at arms length can create more camera shake.

I prefered the old match needle cameras bit faster and easier to set, but the cameras were real heavy.

Just to clarify, setting your ASA to 1600 has absolutely zero to do with opening your aperature to a wide setting. They're two completely different things. Your aperature is controlled by turning a dial on your lens, or turning a dial on your camera that does the same thing as turning the dial on your lens. With newer lenses, you don't even have a F-Stop dial anymore.

In any case, your ASA setting should generally be set something like ASA 100-200 for outdoors in the sun, or when shooting with your flash. ASA 400 should be used when your're not using your flash, perhaps at dusk, when there's still some descent light but not bright sunlight, and speeds of 800 or more should be used for things like shooting concerts where you're not using your flash. You can get away with 400 at a concert if you're very selective and wait for nice bright light on the subject. You don't need anything higher than 400 when using a good flash.

On digital cameras the higher the ASA/ISO setting the more "noise" you'll get. "Noise" was called "Grain" in the old days of film cameras. The less "noise" in a photo, the better unless you're purposly trying to get a grainy image for a specific reason.

Your F-stops are completely different. Your F-stop is one of the ways to control the amount of light that hits your sensor(or film back in the day) The shutter speed is the other. The lower F-stops like F 2.0 allow more light into the camera, therefore allowing you to use a faster shutter speed if you desire. The higher F-stops like F22 let very little light into the camera, therefore forcing you to shoot in much brighter light, or forcing you to shoot with a much slower shutter speed. Also the lower the f-stop you use, the less depth of field you're going to achieve.

So for example if you want to take a portrait of your dog and there's some bushes in the background, use a longer lens, and a lower F-stop to purposly blurr out the background so your subject, the doggie, stands out more and doesn't get lost in the background.  With shorter lenses like anything from 8mm to around 50mm you'll have trouble blurring out the background by using lower F-stops.  The longer the lens, the less depth of field you're going to have in general.  F-3.5 on a 135mm lens will give you much less depth of field than a 35mm lens from the same distance, with the same settings.

[SirSnookalot]

Just to clarify, setting your ASA to 1600 has absolutely zero to do with opening your aperature to a wide setting. They're two completely different things. Your aperature is controlled by turning a dial on your lens, or turning a dial on your camera that does the same thing as turning the dial on your lens. With newer lenses, you don't even have a F-Stop dial anymore.

Has every thing to do with it. An automatic camera, modern digital, will always select the correct f stop for any given shutter speed. Granted there is no aperture ring but you can still adjust the speed or f stop manually to your liking with a simple press of a button. For fish pics, I just leave it on program and they turn out decently enough, I'm there to fish and pictures are a remote priority.

he lower F-stops like F 2.0 allow more light into the camera, therefore allowing you to use a faster shutter speed if you desire.  The higher F-stops like F22 let very little light into the camera, therefore forcing you to shoot in much brighter light, or forcing you to shoot with a much slower shutter speed.  Also the lower the f-stop you use, the less depth of field you're going to achieve. 

100000%.........correct, and well said.

Fat g, I'm glad the av mode worked well for you, shirt more in focus at f8?

Also the lenses on these camera are not the greatest, unless you get into something that you can interchange lenses.  My Fuji does not have interchangeable but I can use filters, I really like my polarizing filter.

[Fat-G]

Setting 1600 speed opens the aperture to a wide setting, giving more depth of field, could be why your shirt is blurry ( out of focus), no need for that much speed for a still photo. Set your camera on aperture mode and experiment until find the correct f stop to get in focus what you want. Low f stop like f2.0 wider opening more depth of field, f11 or your highest on that camera, small lens opening almost everything is in focus. Your camera will select the correct speed. Higher number f stop is a slower speed, conversely low number is a faster speed, it's all about balance, the proper amount of light entering the camera. Nothing wrong with slower speed as long as there is no camera shake. I prefer using the view finder over the lcd display, holding the camera at arms length can create more camera shake.

I prefered the old match needle cameras bit faster and easier to set, but the cameras were real heavy.

Just to clarify, setting your ASA to 1600 has absolutely zero to do with opening your aperature to a wide setting. They're two completely different things. Your aperature is controlled by turning a dial on your lens, or turning a dial on your camera that does the same thing as turning the dial on your lens. With newer lenses, you don't even have a F-Stop dial anymore.

In any case, your ASA setting should generally be set something like ASA 100-200 for outdoors in the sun, or when shooting with your flash. ASA 400 should be used when your're not using your flash, perhaps at dusk, when there's still some descent light but not bright sunlight, and speeds of 800 or more should be used for things like shooting concerts where you're not using your flash. You can get away with 400 at a concert if you're very selective and wait for nice bright light on the subject. You don't need anything higher than 400 when using a good flash.

On digital cameras the higher the ASA/ISO setting the more "noise" you'll get. "Noise" was called "Grain" in the old days of film cameras. The less "noise" in a photo, the better unless you're purposly trying to get a grainy image for a specific reason.

Your F-stops are completely different. Your F-stop is one of the ways to control the amount of light that hits your sensor(or film back in the day) The shutter speed is the other. The lower F-stops like F 2.0 allow more light into the camera, therefore allowing you to use a faster shutter speed if you desire. The higher F-stops like F22 let very little light into the camera, therefore forcing you to shoot in much brighter light, or forcing you to shoot with a much slower shutter speed. Also the lower the f-stop you use, the less depth of field you're going to achieve.

So for example if you want to take a portrait of your dog and there's some bushes in the background, use a longer lens, and a lower F-stop to purposly blurr out the background so your subject, the doggie, stands out more and doesn't get lost in the background. With shorter lenses like anything from 8mm to around 50mm you'll have trouble blurring out the background by using lower F-stops. The longer the lens, the less depth of field you're going to have in general. F-3.5 on a 135mm lens will give you much less depth of field than a 35mm lens from the same distance, with the same settings.

That's what I've been told. So, in the bright sun, with no shade, what should I set the shutter speed and aperture to?

[Fat-G]

Just to clarify, setting your ASA to 1600 has absolutely zero to do with opening your aperature to a wide setting. They're two completely different things. Your aperature is controlled by turning a dial on your lens, or turning a dial on your camera that does the same thing as turning the dial on your lens. With newer lenses, you don't even have a F-Stop dial anymore.

Has every thing to do with it. An automatic camera, modern digital, will always select the correct f stop for any given shutter speed. Granted there is no aperture ring but you can still adjust the speed or f stop manually to your liking with a simple press of a button. For fish pics, I just leave it on program and they turn out decently enough, I'm there to fish and pictures are a remote priority.

he lower F-stops like F 2.0 allow more light into the camera, therefore allowing you to use a faster shutter speed if you desire. The higher F-stops like F22 let very little light into the camera, therefore forcing you to shoot in much brighter light, or forcing you to shoot with a much slower shutter speed. Also the lower the f-stop you use, the less depth of field you're going to achieve.

100000%.........correct, and well said.

Fat g, I'm glad the av mode worked well for you, shirt more in focus at f8?

Also the lenses on these camera are not the greatest, unless you get into something that you can interchange lenses. My Fuji does not have interchangeable but I can use filters, I really like my polarizing filter.

I know my camera at least does this. When your in either Aperture Priority or Shutter Speed Priority, the opposite will be automatic, I guess.

It turned out better. I eventually changed the +/- setting to -1 2/3, which let less light into the shot, but helped focus on what the flash covered.

This is one of the reasons why I love BR! You guys are awesome.

[Bass_Akwards]

Setting 1600 speed opens the aperture to a wide setting, giving more depth of field, could be why your shirt is blurry ( out of focus), no need for that much speed for a still photo. Set your camera on aperture mode and experiment until find the correct f stop to get in focus what you want. Low f stop like f2.0 wider opening more depth of field, f11 or your highest on that camera, small lens opening almost everything is in focus. Your camera will select the correct speed. Higher number f stop is a slower speed, conversely low number is a faster speed, it's all about balance, the proper amount of light entering the camera. Nothing wrong with slower speed as long as there is no camera shake. I prefer using the view finder over the lcd display, holding the camera at arms length can create more camera shake.

I prefered the old match needle cameras bit faster and easier to set, but the cameras were real heavy.

Again, not sure what you're talking about here bro.  Your ASA/ISO has NOTHING to do with your F-stops and certainly when you set your ISO/ASA you are NOT opening your aperature like you stated.  You open your aperature with your F-stop ring on a film camera, and a press of a button with a digital camera.  The higher you set your ISO/ASA the lower F-stop you can shoot with in low light.