airborne_angler Posted June 11, 2010 Posted June 11, 2010 So what kind and size of hook does everyone like to use when D-Sing. I have been recently using Eagle Claw #8 or #6 Kahle Hooks. I buy them snelled in the packages and just cut the line off. Otherwise I use Octopus hooks in the smae size mentioned above. Quote
Nice_Bass Posted June 11, 2010 Posted June 11, 2010 drop shot stand out hooks- work well although I ds only about 5% of my fishing time Quote
Super User fourbizz Posted June 11, 2010 Super User Posted June 11, 2010 Owner Mosquito sz1 for just about everything. Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted June 11, 2010 Super User Posted June 11, 2010 Hmm... I use these, #2 http://www.gamakatsu.com/catalog/split_shot.htm 8-) Quote
Super User SoFlaBassAddict Posted June 11, 2010 Super User Posted June 11, 2010 So what kind and size of hook does everyone like to use when D-Sing. Out of those, I prefer the Owners. And yes, I know I've got the hooks under the wrong package for the Gammy's. Quote
Bassin-Yakin Posted June 12, 2010 Posted June 12, 2010 If you are not using braid mainline, you are cheating yourself. x2 Since switching to a braid mainline, it is like a whole new world. Can someone tell me exactly how to tie the braid to the leader? I use braid on some of my spinners and baitcasters, but never use a leader. I usually just use mono for dropshottin... Quote
Super User fourbizz Posted June 12, 2010 Super User Posted June 12, 2010 modified albright. best knot ever! Quote
EastTexasBassin Posted June 12, 2010 Posted June 12, 2010 I use many of the same baits on a dropshot rig as I do on a c-rig, and I use it in much the same way. I prefer bigger baits, like 10 inch worms and big creature baits. I use a half ounce weight up to a 3/4 ounce weight most of the time. My dropshot rig has 40lb braid as the main line with 20lb flouro as a leader. I use a pendulum cast to launch it as far as I can, and work over a good distance of structure with it. Its a great way to cover deep structure. Quote
Super User ww2farmer Posted June 12, 2010 Super User Posted June 12, 2010 I cast my dropshot about 80% of the time, drag/drift with it 10%, and drop it down verticaly 10%. In my home lake deep water offshore structure is rather scarce, fish relate to inside/outside grass edges,holes in the grass, shorline cover like docks and laydowns, or they suspend in open water around bait. The water is typicaly clear down to 15' or so, and the bass usually don't tolerate you beeing on top of them. Many times I have located schools of bass "hanging" around the deep weed edge in 12'-14' only to have every thing I offerd them ignored while I was in veiw to them. Once I backed off and begain making long casts to them with my DS rig they were VERY willing to bite. Now in mid-summer when the weeds get thick, and the water gets some color in it, I can get closer and "bubba" shot them on the edge of even flip it right into holes in the thick stuff. For gear, open water casting/dragging a 7'ML spinning rod w/6 lb fluorocarbon, 1/4 oz sinker works for me out to 20' any deeper I go with 3/8. Most of the time I use a #1 Gamakatsu DS/SS hook and nose hook baits like Zoom tiny flukes, 4" Roboworms, or wacky rig a 3" and 4" Senkos. When bubba shotting I go with a 7' MH casting rod and 15lb fluoro, 1/0 or larger EWG hooks depending on what bait I am using, and at least a 3/8 sinker, and as much as 3/4 oz. depending on depth and cover thickness. I alsao like the sinker to be tied to the "drop" as well, I use the slip on one for open water, but if you use them in heavy cover you will lose alot of lead. And with the the heavy line/gear I am not worried about breaking the rig off, I can usually rip it free. I have yet to find a bait that won't work, but have settled in on a Zoom mag. finesse worm as my new favorite. Quote
airborne_angler Posted June 16, 2010 Posted June 16, 2010 So I know that using Fluorocarbon with braid gives you the ultimate sensitivity. How sensitive is a setup when using braid and mono. I know with mono and braid youll lose some sensitivity,just how different is it than using braid and flourcarbon? Quote
Andy Taylor Posted June 16, 2010 Posted June 16, 2010 So when drop-shotting the bait is never hooked Texas style? If not, why is that? Quote
HuntFishAK Posted June 16, 2010 Posted June 16, 2010 I don't see why you couldn't texas rig it if the conditions warrant that type of approach. I typically just nose hook the bait. As far as casting goes, I like to cast it into deeper water while my partner pounds the bank with a crankbait or spinnerbait. Quote
Super User Nitrofreak Posted June 17, 2010 Super User Posted June 17, 2010 Andy Taylor, The bait is not rigged Texas style because you want the bait presentation to be as parallel to the bottom as possible, This is not to say that you can't rig it T-style and have it work for you as huntfishspokane suggested. Hope this helps be safe and have fun. Quote
Redtail Posted June 17, 2010 Posted June 17, 2010 How do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position? Quote
Super User Nitrofreak Posted June 17, 2010 Super User Posted June 17, 2010 Redtail, I normally will use a Palomar knot with a 2 to 8 foot leader to attach my weight at the bottom this lets the hook stand straight out when the line has the slack pulled out of it. There is more info on the drop-shot in "fishing articles" at the header of this web-site that can be very useful to you. Quote
Super User J Francho Posted June 17, 2010 Super User Posted June 17, 2010 So when drop-shotting the bait is never hooked Texas style? If not, why is that? These hooks work great for t-rigging worms on a drop shot. I generally use a smaller, open hook, like Gamakatsu Split Shot/Drop Shot or Owner Mosquito hooks, but if your bait is getting fouled by weeds, these work well. Owner Down Shot hooks: Quote
Super User J Francho Posted June 17, 2010 Super User Posted June 17, 2010 How do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position? Tie a palomar knot with a long tag end. Run the tag end back through the top of the hook's eye, and gently pull on the tag so the knot rotates a bit. Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted June 17, 2010 Super User Posted June 17, 2010 How do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position? Tie a palomar knot with a long tag end. Run the tag end back through the top of the hook's eye, and gently pull on the tag so the knot rotates a bit. 100% effective! 8-) Quote
airborne_angler Posted June 17, 2010 Posted June 17, 2010 How do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position? Tie a palomar knot with a long tag end. Run the tag end back through the top of the hook's eye, and gently pull on the tag so the knot rotates a bit. Ive been old to ALWAYS try to eliminate ANY twists in the knot when tying it. I think this may create weak spots. Not sure if its true,but its a rule of thumb for me either way. Quote
twitchfish Posted June 17, 2010 Posted June 17, 2010 I am shorebound also and on a particularly long walk, lost my last DS weight on a snag. Tied on a 3/8ths oz skirted jig I had cut off before as my drop shot weight. Naturally, being a banker, use a horizontal retrieve and that afternoon caught an equal number of fish on the plastic up the line and the jig. Twitch Quote
Super User J Francho Posted June 17, 2010 Super User Posted June 17, 2010 How do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position? Tie a palomar knot with a long tag end. Run the tag end back through the top of the hook's eye, and gently pull on the tag so the knot rotates a bit. Ive been old to ALWAYS try to eliminate ANY twists in the knot when tying it. I think this may create weak spots. Not sure if its true,but its a rule of thumb for me either way. If you are using fluorocarbon, then yes, the knot must be tied perfectly. If there is a kink or twist before the hook, start over, or it will likely fail. Quote
Super User fourbizz Posted June 17, 2010 Super User Posted June 17, 2010 I am shorebound also and on a particularly long walk, lost my last DS weight on a snag. Tied on a 3/8ths oz skirted jig I had cut off before as my drop shot weight. Naturally, being a banker, use a horizontal retrieve and that afternoon caught an equal number of fish on the plastic up the line and the jig. Twitch That is when I usually Trig the dropshot bait. I dont like using the small mosquito hooks when I have a jig or tube on the bottom as a weight. Hooksets are the reason for this. If you hit them hard enough to set the jig hook, you are usually going to miss them/ tear out the mosquito hook. If you do a reel set, you wont get them if they ate the jig. Step up to an EWG hook on the d-shot and you can hit them hard enough to set either hook. I usually only run the bubba shot when I am in desperation mode. Quote
badger_bassin Posted June 17, 2010 Posted June 17, 2010 Line twist just comes along with the technique, but there are ways to help minimize how much twist occurs. The special sinker used for drop shotting is one way to limit line twist, but two more things you can do is, when your done fishing for the day let out a bunch of line and ride around with it running through the water, another thing to limit line twist is to reel up slowly when retrieving to recast. Most line twist actually comes from reeling the bait back up. Quote
Super User SoFlaBassAddict Posted June 18, 2010 Super User Posted June 18, 2010 How do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position? Tie a palomar knot with a long tag end. Run the tag end back through the top of the hook's eye, and gently pull on the tag so the knot rotates a bit. x2 Tried and true method. Works great everytime. Quote
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