Lost a bass from drag not set right. What do you do?

[ib_of_the_damned]

I just lost a good size bass tonight when I tried to set the hook on my crankbait, I saw the wake, felt the tug, set the hook and line got taken out too easily. My drag was too loose!! How many of you have had this happen, and what do you do to try to get that bass again? Any help or advice would be awesome. Thanks!

[dodgeguy]

tighten your drag.check it before you cast.you aren't getting that fish again.

[tholmes]

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tighten your drag.check it before you cast.you aren't getting that fish again.

+1^. I've got into the habit of setting my drag right after I tie on the first lure of the day.

Tom

[Five-Alive]

I always check my drag before starting to fish but have had my drag to back off (I guess from my rods bouncing around) but if you can react quick enough you may be able to thumb your spool to increase the drag.

[steezy]

equipment check before fishing, enough said.

[Grey Wolf]

Really make an effort to learn to set your drag correctly.

Example :  IF YOUR USING 15 LB. TEST LINE , SET YOUR DRAG  AT  5 LBS.

WHAT EVER LB LINE YOU USE , SET THE DRAG AT EITHER 1/4 TO 1/3 OF ITS BREAKING POINT.

[SoFl-native]

I pull out some drag several times during a trip just to check. It is just habit now.

[Paul Roberts]

Drag is a drag

I assume you are using casting gear with your cranks, so you're having to set drag and are pretty much stuck with that setting, even if your line gets weakened from use, the line contacts a hard obstruction during the fight, or you didn't re-tie when you should have and hooked the big one. >

With casting gear you get a great torque advantage (over spinning) in being able to winch fish the only thing better for this is centerpin or fly-tackle, believe it or not. Set the drag loose with casting gear and you lose that great winching power. But...with casting gear you are relying on your line and knot being in the same condition it was when you set the drag.

Here are a few things to think about:

-Set your drag appropriately, the keep the line in top condition. Check your line regularly as you fish, cut back, and re-tie knots. This is priority one.

-Use appropriate lines, esp abrasion resistant stuff if you are in coarse cover. If you can get away with it presentation wise, you also might wish to go a bit heavier in line strength than you might need otherwise, simply bc it requires a bit less maintenance.

-Buy a reel with a strong drag (appropriate for the line strength you're using) so it doesn't have to be torqued down and then is tough to back off accurately, if you need to.

With spinning tackle there is an alternative to drag back-reeling. I've been a back-reeler since day one from the old Fishing Facts days. I've NEVER used drag with spinning tackle in my entire life! Why would I want a mindless set of washers left to control the fight? I decide how and when to put on the pressure, or back off. If my line gets compromised during the fight, I can adjust instantly. Granted spinning reel drag is more easily adjusted then casting, the reason for the rear drags out there. But why bother?

Don't get me wrong, I love casting gear. In fact I'd rather hook a truly big fish on a casting rig, bc of that smooth winching ability it offers. But drag is definitely something to understand with this type of gear. Wish I could have the best of both worlds, that winching power and backreeling without the risk of terminal backlash. Could you imagine your thumb slipping with the rod fully loaded? :'(

[ib_of_the_damned]

Thanks for all the answers everyone! I just remembered that when I tried to set the hook line got taken out, so the bass probably spat out the crankbait.  So I have to remember to set my drag right and check it.

[J Francho]

Just set the drag to 1/3 the breaking strength of the line, or the rod line rating, whichever is lower.  You should not have to set the hook on a crankbait.

[Paul Roberts]

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You should not have to set the hook on a crankbait.

mmmmmmm..... another topic perhaps.

[WRB]

You pay a premium price for a reel (spinning or casting) with a good drag, use it.

The 1/3 line strength is a good ball park for all fishing reels. 8 lbs is about the maximum a fresh water bass rod can handle without breaking and most fresh water reel drags can hold.

You can use your thumb to stop a casting reel spool or your index finger to stop a spinning reel spool, if needed.

Use a scale to set your drag, then pull off some line to "feel" what a set tension is like. 4 lbs of drag tension is a lot more force then you might believe without testing it. Don't have a scale; use 1/2 gallon jug of water and try lifting it.

WRB

[steezy]

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Just set the drag to 1/3 the breaking strength of the line, or the rod line rating, whichever is lower. You should not have to set the hook on a crankbait.

So is it a bad idea to jerk the rod a bit in a hookset motion when a fish hits a crankbait ?  I know Ive seen the pros do that.

[J Francho]

To each their own, I guess. Its not really necessary, especially with a moderate action rod, and sharp hooks. I've seen pros do it my way, which is just reel into the fish, and put side pressure on. There isn't really any reason to use a hookset for bass, they have soft fleshy jaws, and the hooks are small enough and sharp enough to penetrate on their own.

Now, you want to talk other species, like large trout, or pike and musky, with tough jaws, and huge hooks, that's another story.

[FordNFishinLover]

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Just set the drag to 1/3 the breaking strength of the line, or the rod line rating, whichever is lower. You should not have to set the hook on a crankbait.

So is it a bad idea to jerk the rod a bit in a hookset motion when a fish hits a crankbait ? I know Ive seen the pros do that.

I've always heard/ and have used just  a quick wrist snap motion. I dont use much of a jerk at all when fishing cranks.

But when im fishing a jig or worm on bottom im one of those guys who will rip the lips off a bass.

[Bass_Akwards]

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tighten your drag.check it before you cast.you aren't getting that fish again.

Why on Earth do you say he isn't getting that bass again?  Don't listen to him kid, you might not know it when you do it, but you'll catch that bass again if you keep fishing and keep learning.

[nUgZ]

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tighten your drag.check it before you cast.you aren't getting that fish again.

Why on Earth do you say he isn't getting that bass again? Don't listen to him kid, you might not know it when you do it, but you'll catch that bass again if you keep fishing and keep learning.

I think he meant you won't get that fish to bite again right away if you kept casting to the same spot. The chances of the fish going back for the crankbait right away are slim, especially if he felt a hook.  I'd keep casting there though on the chance that there are some other bass schooling in the same spot.  You never know...

[Fat-G]

Tighten it.

[crw]

I back my drag off when I am finished for the day.  Before the first cast, I set my drag on the light side, but before I set a hook, I put my thumb on the spool (bait caster).  If the fish takes off, I adjust the star drag.

[tnhiker44]

I think I keep my drag looser than most folks do. For the average fish I catch (one, two, up to five pounds) I do not mind some slippage on their power runs. If I do hook a larger fish I thumb the spool some and tighten if necessary (that line gets real hot against your thumb!).

And I am not so sure I agree with soft mouth comment made about bass earlier. A six, seven, ten pound bass around these parts have a tough, hard mouth. I do not know how many times I have hooked a bass on a Rattle Trap and reached into her mouth to unhook only to see that the hooks had not penetrated to the barbs. Sharp hooks too. The Rattle Trap almost falls out of her mouth.

(But just try to get that out of your box with two other Traps sitting next to it... those things grab onto each other and almost never let go.)

[J Francho]

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And I am not so sure I agree with soft mouth comment made about bass earlier.

Its relative.  You took my comment out of context.  A bass's mouth is much softer and fleshy that pike, trout and salmon.

I do agree, many have their drag set more than necessary.  The exception is when I fish heavy cover, and I have it set to slip just enough to prevent rod breakage.

[D4u2s0t]

I always keep my drag set to where I can pull on it fairly easily, but not easily enough it's going to let out slack every time I give my bait a good tug.  If I need more force, i'll use my thumb to feather the line.

You should make a habit of checking your drag every time you head down to the water.  Takes 2 seconds, and you won't have to worry about losing any fish. (because of the drag at least lol)

[done]

I feel your pain. As to what you do, whenever that has happened to me, I work REAL hard at not pitching the entire rod/reel out into the lake.

Like these guys said, check it before you set out, and another be careful of how you sent the rod down on the deck. Do NOT ask me how but i managed to knock my drag on one of my spinning reals once when I set it down. The result was is lowered my drag just enough to cost me my next fish.

Just part of fishing I guess. In general once you flip that fish...you ain't gonna see it again. I would say 99% of the time that has held true for me with BASS. Now sunfish, you can catch the same fish all day long and as my oldest showed me once, you can do it with just an empty hook.

[dman]

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Just set the drag to 1/3 the breaking strength of the line

How do you do this and know it is set at 1/3.....I dont think ive lost many if any fish due to my drag but i would like to know how to set it correctly

[roadwarrior]

Method #1:

String your rod and tie the line to a fixed scale

or you will need another person to hold the scale.

Back way and adjust your drag so that it begins

to release at the desired weight.

Method #2:

Load free weights or know weights, like a bag of flour

or just water, in a plastic grocery bag. Tie your line

to the bag. GENTLY begin to lift your rod tip and adjust

your drag so that it releases at the desired weight.

For me, the drag is set at 25% of the line's breaking

strength or 4 lbs, whichever is less.

8-)