Need some help with method

[Koop]

I'm just starting out with fishing and a little confused.  I got into it pretty heavily about 2 weeks ago, and since have caught everything from rock bass to walleye to northern.  I do a lot of fishing near some locks out on a pier that's about 5-10 ft drop with a gradual decline after that.  

I have been using rapala husky jerks and originals.  What I don't seem to understand is the method I'm using and why the lures are doing what they are.  

The husky jerks are fine that is what I'm catching everything with I read up on methods here and articles.  The originals are what I'm not understanding, I'm not sure what method I should be using as the lure never goes to the depth it is advertised to go to (3-5ft)  it usually stays about 1-2ft then if I stop reeling or dragging it, it comes right up to the surface and wont go back under... what am I doing wrong?

[jesse-c]

your husky jerk is a suspending jerkbait which means when you jerk it down and pause it, it stays at that depth without rising. The original rapala is made of balsa and is a floating jerkbait. First thing you should nderstand is that not all baits will go the depth they say they can achieve. 1-2 feet for an original rapala sounds pretty normal to me. The lighter line you fish with the deeper your lure will go. Also if you use a flourocarbon line you get more depth because it sinks whereas mono will tend to float. Also the 3-5 feet is based on a steady retrieve. So you may try to downsize line as much as you can get away with and make as long of casts as you can and with the right retrieve you should obtain max depth with the lure. As always good luck and dont be afraid to ask questions. None of us have it all figured out!

[Crestliner2008]

The depth level at which any crankbait runs is usually advertised as the "running" depth, using a pre-determined line diameter. This is usually (not always) 10# test monofilament. And when I say running, I'm talking about a sustained run, as in a trolling run, not a cast. When I buy a lure that says it will run 10' deep, I always assume this reduced by 30% on the cast. Deep diving (long bill) cranks get to their designed depth range a lot faster than the shallower diving models, such as the original Rapala. You can get this lure down 3' - 5' only if you use a light line and either troll, or crank really fast on long cast. JMO.

[Tom Bass]

KingKoopa,

Your not doing anything wrong. The lures are doing what they are designed to do. The Rapala "Original" is made of balsa and it floats. The diving action is caused when it retrieved and the spoon under the lip helps to drag it down into the water. In my opinion the "Original" is best fished with a wounded minnow retrieve. Cast it and leave it float on the water a while then twitch it....leave it alone....twitch it again. Reel a bit...leave it...twitch it....leave it alone....twitch it....reel it.....

You get the idea?

The Original can be used as a regular crank lure but you are right. It does not get the depth advertised with heavier line. I have found that the lesser pound test line helps it get deeper but fighting a several pound fish on 4# test line might get interesting.

I read an article that was done in either Field and Stream or Outdoor Life where the author tested crank baits for advertised depths. Only the Rapala DT lures seemed to be most accurate. The term Rapala uses "DT" means Dives To.

[WRB]

The original Rapala comes in 2 models; floating and sinking or CD series called count down; sinks 1 foot each second.

The key the original Rapalas is the line size and type you are using, most of the floaters require spinning tackle to cast any distance and light line; 6 to 10 lb mono or fluorocarbon.

The Husky Jerks are heavier and made to cast with line up to 15 lb test on both spinning or bait casting tackle.

WRB

PS; also try the Fat Rap diving series in perch or fire tiger for your area.

[farmpond1]

To add to what's already been said, balsa floating lures (ones that rise back up to the surface when paused) are good for fishing over heavy submerged vegitation where you can pause or slow down the lure long enough for it to rise above the stuff, than crank 'er back down once you pass over it.  They generally don't go super deep to begin with.  They are good in some applications (such as the aforementioned) and crummy in others.

[Koop]

Thanks everyone for all the help.  That certainly clears things up.  I'll give the fat rap diving series a shot, I am assuming by diving series you mean DT.  I actually haven't tried any of the RAPS or SHADS yet, I just bought a few today.  I bought the SR-5 Shad Rap deep runner in fire tiger and the XRSH shad shallow slash bait in silver.  I will have to go get a fat rap DT to try out, what depth DT should I try as you suggested in my area?  

The store had a great sale today so a lot was gone... all rapala lures were 25% off and yamamoto seiko's were buy one get one, so I grabbed a few bags of those to try out also.

Anyhow tomorrow will get to test all of the new toys, I'll report back.  Last night wasn't great just got 3x 14-16" northern on my FT husky jerk and silly me being new didn't have my landing net with.  Make a mistake every day, learn something new ;-)