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  • Super User
Posted

Yep, and in fact will ruin them.  I hate using a swivel in this application, as I feel it adds too much fuss to the rig, but if you want to use one, thread a plastic bead on the mainline before tying the swivel.  This will prevent you from reeling the swivel through your guides.

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

If you are casting the rig farther away from you, wouldn't a longer bait-to-sinker distance help to keep the bait higher in the water column at the lower angle created when the sinker is farther from your rod tip?

I hope that makes sense.

Absolutely. I too wrote an article on my take on the drop shot and I mention this. As one who is permanently shorebound, I sometimes have to make fairly long casts. I take that factor into account.

I also prefer the teardrop shaped weights when possible closely followed by the cylindrical ones. I have ball ones that I haven't gotten around to.

Drop shotting is so effective, it's almost not fair.

Great job, Fourbizz! 8-)

  • Super User
Posted

Thank you bizz. Thanks for assuring me that what I was thinking about doing is ok to do. Sometimes I need a kick in the pants.

Posted

  Good stuff man! All that you said is right on!  Although here in the Northeast when it comes to smallies, it IS a big fish tactic. It also translates well to any water color and lots of species. Last year I caught everything from perch to trout to a few Pike over 35 inches...not that I wanted to catch any of these useless fish but what the heck! lol For anyone new to drop shotting and looking to start out, follow fourbizz's advice exactly and you will be doing it right...now all you have to do is find the fish!

  • Super User
Posted
One question you said about being in clear water. Does this method also work in our murky water up here in the north?

Absolutely. My biggest fish on the dropshot came in about 2ft visibility, in the dark, during a new moon. And that was with a small 6" worm.

when you get stuck on the bottom where does the break occur?

ps. great thread

Your line will either pull through the swivel on the weight, or the swivel will cut it at that point. Assuming of course that you have no nicks in your line and and it isnt your hook that is stuck.

I tend to think of "Drop Shot" as a rig, not a presentation or style.  I'm pretty sure I've rigged it up on every rod I own.  Well, not my trout rods, LOL.  I love DS on braid as well, and 10/2 is ideal.  I've also used much heavier line and a flipping stick to cannon ball the pads.  A very deadly tactic with a 10" worm or Super Fluke.

I have punched this rig with a 1.5 ounce tungsten weight and a 15" worm and swimbaits

Great information!  I cant wait to try it!

As a side question would this work equally as well in stained water with timber?

Absolutely, if the timber is still branchy, ditch the nose hook and go texas. If they are just vertical trunks, keep to the nose hook.

Thanks all. Glad this was of some use :)

  • Super User
Posted
I have punched this rig with a 1.5 ounce tungsten weight and a 15" worm and swimbaits

Here is a nice swimbait for you:

459835606_SwMyz-M.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

I would really like to go out and get a Steelie. I went once this year and blanked epicly.

  • Super User
Posted
bizz and dropshot in the same sentence :o

I use 10lb braid and floro leader too. awesome combo for deadstickin.

hope you've been good dood, it's been awhile. 8-)

How have you been bro! Been awhile! We'll have to get out this spring. Sucks that we'll be stuck on the bank at the spot though.

Posted

Been alright. Lots of fishing and skateboarding. Been fishing a dropshot at anderson for a bunch of dinks. tons of fun though. 4" robo sculpin pattern ,straight down to 20-30 fow,  no movement.

Yeah we will. That is a BIG time bummer. Just an excuse to spend more time on the delta ;D

Good to see your still kickin.  8-)

  • 7 years later...
Posted (edited)

I realize, the posting I'm referring to is eight years old, but is one of the most astute recommendations for drop shorting.(Fourbizz) addresses every aspect of the technique from rod to weight/hook.  But the line recommendation was the one that really grabbed my attention. The reasoning and the suggestions on knot for tying fly to leader to braid.  But the use of braid to lessen line twist and lessen the bow in line,  thereby increasing sensitivity and hook sets, is greatly appreciated.

New member, this was the first post I read.  And very impressed with the forum. 

For those that want to read or re-read, it was titled "Drop shotting my way" Jan 09.

 

 

 

Edited by John McGough
Omission
  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
2 hours ago, John McGough said:

I realize, the posting I'm referring to is eight years old, but is one of the most astute recommendations for drop shorting.(Fourbizz) addresses every aspect of the technique from rod to weight/hook.  But the line recommendation was the one that really grabbed my attention. The reasoning and the suggestions on knot for tying fly to leader to braid.  But the use of braid to lessen line twist and lessen the bow in line,  thereby increasing sensitivity and hook sets, is greatly appreciated.

New member, this was the first post I read.  And very impressed with the forum. 

For those that want to read or re-read, it was titled "Drop shotting my way" Jan 09.

 

 

 

 

Hello John and Welcome to Bass Resource ~

Keep poking around, there's a ton of solid (and more current) info on not only the effective drop shot, but All Things Bass.

:smiley:

A-Jay

 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
3 hours ago, John McGough said:

I realize, the posting I'm referring to is eight years old, but is one of the most astute recommendations for drop shorting.(Fourbizz) addresses every aspect of the technique from rod to weight/hook.  But the line recommendation was the one that really grabbed my attention. The reasoning and the suggestions on knot for tying fly to leader to braid.  But the use of braid to lessen line twist and lessen the bow in line,  thereby increasing sensitivity and hook sets, is greatly appreciated.

New member, this was the first post I read.  And very impressed with the forum. 

For those that want to read or re-read, it was titled "Drop shotting my way" Jan 09.

 

Welcome aboard, John!

 

@A-Jay is right, this is one of many many good drop shot

posts on the forums.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Sadly some of bassresource's best articles are in archives!

 

Do a Google search on any subject & add bassresource to the end.

 

fourbizz is one of the guys I miss around here ;)

  • Like 1
Posted

Have to agree with all - great post from the past, but still relevant today.  One of the key components to DS, in my novice opinion, is the setting of the drag.  I was losing big fish to line breaks, and was very quick to blame line size, material and quality. Several folks, especially JFrancho, set me straight on the 'human error' involved in having the drag too tight.  It takes some time to hone in on the right setting, but that's the beauty of the technique.  I also have tried the swivel to avoid inevitable line twist, but I think I might have missed a few more hooksets than normal with an unwanted turn of the hook.   The DS technique that I enjoy the most is more of a power-finesse approach that allows me to cover more water.  Some of the most fun I've had is drawing a biting fish closer to the boat in order to subtly set the hook. Once set, the game is on.  Of course, learning to use the electronics for the vertical assault is a great time as well.  Thanks, again, for all who take the time to share.

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
7 hours ago, John McGough said:

But the use of braid to lessen line twist and lessen the bow in line,  thereby increasing sensitivity and hook sets, is greatly appreciated.

 

 

I found the part about braid interesting as well.

 

I fight line twist by using VMC spinshot hooks. I don't think they were around in 2009 when this thread was created.

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