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  • Super User
Posted

Maintain contact with your lure at all times, allow the lure to free-fall unrestricted, but without letting slack form in the line; follow your lures down with your rod tip.

Pay close attention to the depth you're flipping, any sudden change in the amount of line you're using could mean you've been bit. For instance, if you're flipping 6 feet of water and the lure suddenly stops at the 3 depth, it's possible a bass has taken the bait. If you're flipping 3 feet of water and 6 feet of line sinks beneath the mat, chances are good a bass is traveling with the bait. This is extremely true on the initial flip when no line movement maybe noticed.

Strikes will sometimes so subtle with no line movement that they can go unnoticed if you feel is a spongy sensation, as if the line suddenly got heavy set the hook.

Flipping matted cover requires compact lures which means worms with no curl tails that can wrap grass stems. Craw worms or creature baits are excellent choices, for worms use straight tails or paddle tails, for jigs any will work but obviously not football heads. In grass shorted is better than longer, I stay 6 or less.

Weights vary according to density of the vegetation, bottom contact is critical

Keep it vertical with flips approximately 8 to 10 feet away max, the farther away the better the odds of hanging in the grass.

Equipment is personal with many opting for high speed reels for taking up line faster while I opt for lower speeds and more power since I don't have that much line out to start with. I use my rod to move line since it will do it faster than any reel.

Posted

Catt, thanks for the tips man.  I'm just learning pitching and flipping now and practicing like crazy.  I practice in my sleep.  I fish a lot of grass so this is gonna come in very helpful when I'm out on the water tommorrow.  Thanks a lot bud.

Posted

Thanks for the tips. I too am new to flipping and pitching. Although I have benn doing more and more pitching. I like to pitch both my 5'6" UL spinning setup the most.

  • Super User
Posted

What shape head on the jig do you think is best? What about the eye of that jig? What does it look like?

Posted
Thanks, Catt.

What line do you use? Braid, mono, fluoro?

Probably what he uses for everything else.

Berkley Big Game 15#

Correct Catt?  ;)   ;D

  • Super User
Posted

For isolated clumps & sparse grass flats I use my Worm rod which is a Shimano Crucial CRC-X610MH teamed with a Calcutta CT100A spooled with Berkeley Big Game 15# test; with this setup to throw ¼-3/8 oz jigs.

For thick, matted, or deep grass I use a Daiwa TD-V701MHRB teamed with a Calcutta CT100A spooled with Power Pro 65# test; with this setup I throw 3/8-3/4 oz jigs.

I have experimented with close to every name brand jig on the market and had success with all of them even Wal/Marts Renegade Jigs. But in my option there are none better than Oldham's Lures Trailer Hitch Jig; it comes through the grass cleanly and has the absolute stoutest hook on the market which is an essential for jig fishing.

I play around with many different trailers as well be when there's money on the line it's Gene Larew Salty Hawg Craws all the way; which by the way are killer Texas Rigged as well, again they come through the grass cleanly and are a bulky piece of plastic.

This is a picture of an 1 oz Oldham's Max Eye Jig since I done have one of the smaller jig that shows the hook.

TerryOldhamsEyeMax.jpg

Gene Larew Salty Hawg Craw

HawgCraw.jpg

  • Super User
Posted

A couple of good grass jigs are the Bass Stalker "Grass Stalker" jig and the Gerkin Lures jig. Both jigs have the eye more recessed than most brands.

With mono lines, to minimize the grass picked up when retrieving, use a knot that leaves the tag end next to the eye instead of away from the eye such as the Clinch knot and Trilene knot.

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