I cant fish deep! am i missing out.....

[NJfishinGuy]

this ones easier to read and also a lake i have a tuff time on. this lake is 550 acres

[roadwarrior]

I ALWAYS have better luck on steeply sloped points surrounded by much deeper water.

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

These are the areas I would start off in, especially the one with the arrow.

[NJfishinGuy]

LBH, alot of those spots have shallow water hazards why would you choose them?

[Brian_Reeves]

I had problems fishing deep water off the start too.  What I did was gradually go deeper and let my baits get heavier and more specialized.  Senkos are probably not the best bet for water deeper than 10 or 15ft because they take awhile to get to the bottem.  Often, bass will get really close to the structure or cover on the bottem and something weightless is just too hard to control at greater depths.  This is where your bigger jigs, spinnerbaits, and carolina rigs pay off big time.  Don't discount deep diving crankbaits.  Though I really, really don't like this tactic, I've seen it pay off more than once.  Find a good point in a lake and start working it into deeper water.  Cast to deep water and keep moving with the point then go around it and back up to shallow.  If you do this a few times with a C-Rig, then you should be able to pick up a few.

[hamer08]

dont laugh......

i fish a little inflatable row-boat......no electronics whatsoever.......

just me and my little anchor that doesnt even make it too the bottom in some spots.....

I do most of my fishing in a canoe and use portable electronics, I have this one,   http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_75236_200001001_200000000_200001000_200-1-1

I made a small mount for the sensor using a 8" piece of 1/2" copper  pipe and pieces of a swimming noodle to make it float. It runs of 8 AA batteries so you can take it anywhere. They also have castable ones, but I've generally heard compliants about them.

I'm still learning to fish the deep water myself.

Good luck

[Catt]

LBH, alot of those spots have shallow water hazards why would you choose them?

You would choose those spots because of the shallow water hazards which are probably rocks or stumps.

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

LBH, alot of those spots have shallow water hazards why would you choose them?

The areas I chose have 3 things all in very close proximity to each other.  shallow water, deep water and a flat.  (the arrow is a BEAUTIFUL point).  Start around 5-8 ft and work your way out to the deep stuff.  A tapering point that starts off shallow and runs out to a 40 ft depth just makes me want to cast at the picture alone!!

in Borat's words,...veddy niiiice!

[senile1]

Shallow water hazards are not hazards when you've shut down the outboard and you're running your trolling motor.  They are fish attractors.  I fish one lake that is covered with trees and stumps over 60 percent of its 7200 acres.  If I'm not scratching up the gelcoat on the bottom of my boat, I'm not fishing where the fish are.  My boat is a tool just like everything else and I use it like one.  

[NJfishinGuy]

LBH, alot of those spots have shallow water hazards why would you choose them?

The areas I chose have 3 things all in very close proximity to each other.  shallow water, deep water and a flat.  (the arrow is a BEAUTIFUL point).  Start around 5-8 ft and work your way out to the deep stuff.  A tapering point that starts off shallow and runs out to a 40 ft depth just makes me want to cast at the picture alone!!

in Borat's words,...veddy niiiice!

ive actually tried to find that big point with no luck i guess i gotto try again

[gatrboy53]

i liken structure fishin to settin up a deer stand.you dont just go out into the woods and put up a stand .you look for their migration routes.something that is different in the surroundings.fish are the same they travel by the contour of the bottom structure.i always try and find their bedding areas first,then their staging or transition areas next which will always lead to their deep water sanctuaries.and deep is relative to conditions.bass are going to relate to 3 things mostly.food,cover and comfort.you dont have to find all 3 w/ food being the LEAST of these necessities.bass only feed 4 times in 24 hrs. 2 major feeds 12 hrs. apart and 2 minor feeds 12 hrs. apart the rest of the time they are neutral or inactive-not feeding.that leaves cover ,which is dictated by the elements and comfort which is the primary objective of all bass.find his comfort zone and you'll find bass.this is where structure comes in.depth of a bass is where the temp and oxygen is the most comfortable to the bass.bass move up and down on structure to find that zone.for most of us myself included this is trial and error but if you find 1 fish at a particular spot you can bet that where ever you go on that body of water there will be other bass in that same zone.

where im at in structure fishin is how to approach that structure.the angle in which you fish it will determine if you get bit at all or how many you'll be able to catch off of it w/o messin it up.for me there are two search baits for structure hunting crankbaits cant be beat.they'll locate structure bass faster than any other bait,and a drop shot for deeper structure water(more than 20'),some like c-rigs but its to slow for me.once i find structure holding fish i'll fish a c-rig if necessary.

[ffmedic147]

What about wind direction vs. lure presentation. In the past few replys to this topic it was mentioned that the shad will hold on these points. How should we present our lure, for example crankbait, to mimic the bait fish.

Alos it was mentioned about electronics. I have a 520c and am trying to learn how to read it and set it. Sometimes structure is hard to tell what it is. Also sensitivity plays a role in reading these structures. Any suggestions on how to read and set sensitivity.

[Tpayneful]

The map breakdown by LBH was one of the coolest and nicest things I think I have seen anybody do online