JiggaMan512 Posted June 18, 2006 Posted June 18, 2006 This seems to be my biggest problem in learning the art of bassfishing. Latley i have been using finnesse jigs with pigs, tubes, senkos or brush hogs on em. I have noticed since switching to the jigs with the brushguards (as opposed to a fluke or worm with an open hook) that its essential that i learn the proper technique in a good, solid hookset. it seems everytime i try to mimick a bassmasters television hookset, it just yanks the lure away from the fish! fishing weedless rigs at the moment is out of the question for right now due to the fact that i cant set a hook. this is becoming frustrating. please shed some light guys Quote
Super User 5bass Posted June 18, 2006 Super User Posted June 18, 2006 As you feel the bite or notice your line moving off,start lowering your rod, aiming the tip at the fish,reel up ALL slack,let the rod load up slightly and lay it on 'em.....HARD AND FAST. Quote
Super User KU_Bassmaster. Posted June 18, 2006 Super User Posted June 18, 2006 Make sure you reel down so that your rod is pointing at your bait before setting the hook. Also you say you are having particular problems with the jig. Make sure you trim the weed guard so that the guard does not extend past the point of the hook. Quote
Guest ouachitabassangler Posted June 18, 2006 Posted June 18, 2006 A well designed jig that doesn't interfere with a hook penetrating is what you need to use. Sonme have line eyes that stick out too far, holding the mouth open. Some let the hook lay too flat and won't turn to grab flesh. Some have the weed guard at a poor angle (too steep), literally wedging a mouth open. But maybe a bigger problem is not setting quickly enough. You can't mess around delaying a jig hookset. You might be "setting" right after the jig is spit out. If you are using wood or grass jigs they most likely have a very heavy hook that absolutely demands a heavy line and heavy power rod to drive the hook home. Swim type jigs should have a thinner wire hook that a medium rod and 10-12# line can handle. The hook needs to be needle sharp. If you can't hook a bass on a jig no matter what, toss it. I've found a bunch of them that are duds, including many I made trying to find the right design for me. I have a bucket of big name jigs that will be melted down and recycled into new ones someday. When you find a good one you'll know it pretty quickly. For rock use a football jig. For weeds use a grass jig. Wood needs a wood jig. Open water calls for a swim jig, and fishing a clean bottom is best using a standup jig. But just because a company names their jigs those words doesn't always mean they put a lot of research and testing into the truth of the names and their effectiveness. I'd recommend my favorites but since so many folks can't yet fish even the best jigs, I end up making folks mad for getting involved in that. Buy one or two of several brands and you'll find some favorites that work. Whan I find a great design I set to work making copies. Jim Quote
Super User RoLo Posted June 18, 2006 Super User Posted June 18, 2006 But maybe a bigger problem is not setting quickly enough. You can't mess around delaying a jig hookset. You might be "setting" right after the jig is spit out. That sounds like the most likely scenario. A bass will normally eject a jig faster than a plastic worm, so a prompt hook-set is very important. When using stretchy nylon monofilament, valuable time is wasted trying to cross the fish's eyes, but with PowerPro you can break his jaw with a much shorter striking arc. I fish a jig differently than most fishermen. On feeling or seeing a pickup, I'll drop the rod-tip "immediately" but just a short distance, (i.e. 11 to 9 o'clock), then bring the rod back up just as quickly. This produces just enough slack to deliver a crack-the-whip hook-set like driving a nail. There's no need to retrieve excess slack because there is no excess slack. If I'm not satisfied with the initial quick-set, I'll simply hitem again. Roger Quote
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