Taxas rig presentations

[Vyron]

Could the experience guys here give a detail explanation on how they fish the texas rig?

I m really good with texas rig but I want 2 get even better.

So guys... share ur secrets  ;D

[Matt Fly]

I always hand paint my bullets,   white, red, greens, blues, black, yellows, camo.

I cut colored sponges into tiny squares and add them to the back part of the hook so I can apply a scent like lunker sauce and others.   Holds the scent in the pores longer.

Either match the sponge color or dye it.

[FlyRod]

I still get creative, now and then, and paint my weights. I mostly use the little cans of Testor's spray enamels intended for model builders. (Speakin' of model building, does anyone have the blueprints for oh, say, one of these ?  I mean the voice-controlled fully functional version.)

I believe , however that our friend is inquiring re presenting the lure to the lil' green fish. So...

I fish a lot of T-rigged worms. Most of my hits occur on the initial fall once the worm (or Senko-type, lizard, soft craw, etc.) hits the water. Ergo, my "presentation" revolves around "target acquisition and identification" and  accurate placement. There are times, more than one might imagine, when a "miss", by even a few inches, means no bite.  So, "FlyRod's First Law of Presentation" is "Select the target. Hit the target", and there ain't no substitute for practice.

"FlyRods Second Law of Presentation" is "Rig it right." If using a worm with a curly or ribbon tail I want the worm to fall so slowly as possible consistent with attractive "live" tail action. I usually want so slow a fall as possible but one must make sure that the weight used will cause sufficient fall speed to activate the tail.

Many times I've watched a worm fall with the tail inert, not fluttering at all, because the weight is not sufficient. Therefore, I make an effort to select the right weight, still seeking to keep it so light as possible, given the "Flutter Factor", wind (control!), etc.

Still within the bounds of The Second Law is hook size. Consistent with having enough hook to engage the fish I want so much of the worm as possible free to wiggle, squiggle, writhe seductively, etc., and that refers to the portion of the worm past the point of hook insertion. Remember that the worm is virtually stiff between the eye of the hook and the point of insertion.

I note that some bassers use so much as a 4/0 hook on a 6 inch worm. Well, I rarely, if ever, use more than a 2/0 and I'll bet that I get more hits during periods when "Wiggle" is critical and I'll further wager that I miss very few hookups using a 2/0. That said, a curly-tailed worm is more forgiving of over-hooking so long as the tail still flutters or oscillates on the fall.

With a straight-tailed worm tail action is mostly imparted by the angler. Consider the technique called "Shaking" and you get the idea. However, shaking is not the only application for the straight-tailed worm and pronounced movement of the tail is not always the key. Still, even techniques such as "Do nothing" and "Dead sticking" are not necessarily devoid of tail movement.  The slightest current or, if one is fishing very shallow water, wave action, will cause movement of the straight tail. Again, smaller hook=more action.

As an example, I use a lot of ZOOM Finesse worms. These lil' jewels are only 4.75" long. All but the blindest can see that a large hook (length, not depth, EWGs are AOK in most cases,) will severely hamper tail action. My choice for the Finesse Zoomies is usually a 1/0 Gamakatsu EWG, usually in red.

I use the ZOOM Trick Worm and the Strike King 3X version when I wanna fish a weightless rig. Since the stretchy-no breaky 3X stuff floats, by the way, I sometimes carefully rubber-peg a 1/32 bullet weight with the worm so I can twitch it down a few inches. A 3/0 might be OK here, since the worms are 7 inches long, but I often use the trusty 2/0 here as well.

Before I drift off too far...Once the critter is wet, pay careful attention as it falls. Line-watching is critical, and some lines are darned hard to see, some all of the time, some some of the time. You might go to a Hi-Vis type braid and learn to attach a 5-6 foot pure fluorocarbon leader (not regular fluoro line, but something like P-Line Fluoro LEADER, which comes in little spools of about 35 meters, which also means you'll need to learn to tie the &^&*$%@! J-Knot found on the DuPont Stren website.

Any twitch in the line usually means action below. Also, it you know you're casting into 10 feet of water and the fall stops after maybe five feet of line has disappeared, guess what! Of course, touchy-feely is critical too, in that one is sometimes fortunate enough for a bass to attack the lure with enough "Ooomph" to send a little shock wave your way. (Braid, I love thee!)

If you're still awake...Let's say that cruel fate has decreed that your offering was not accepted at it's debut. OK, so now do you reel in and recast (and I often do when firing at an isolated patch of cover,) or "work it back"? Since fish will sometimes suspend OFF the cover, at times "relating" to it rather than lurking therein, you need to adjust to that. Given the bottom depth and composition, and the possiblility of unseen cover between your initial target and the boat, one needs to comb the "target to boat" line to some degree. This is where one's sense of touch often takes precedence over line-watching. This is also where high-modulus rods and light-weight reels and braid really make a difference. You get what you pay for...sometimes.

Given the depth, degree of slope, and other factors, you might make repeated casts and use various retrieves in order to cover the water column. You could swim the worm back at, say, estimated increments of 3-5 foot depths (ZOOM Finesse!), imparting a subtle shake or two...SUBTLE!  Finally, casting, letting it fall to the bottom and retrieving via a series of short or long hops (the curlies shine here), twitches, or crawls may be the key.

This could go on forever, but my monitor is running outta ink . If asked, I will elaborate further later on, perhaps via PMs in order not to clog up this board.

F.Rod

[K_Mac]

Some great ideas so far. I will sometimes add a glass bead between the weight and hook to make a little noise. I've used insert rattles, but haven't had much luck with them.

[FlyRod]

Some great ideas so far. I will sometimes add a glass bead between the weight and hook to make a little noise. I've used insert rattles, but haven't had much luck with them.

Well, I generally peg my weights (PEG-IT, available most major tackle places) and I'm convinced it reduces hang-ups. You can still use a bead, and even get some noise from it, by using a brass or tungsten($$$) weight and pegging the weight so that there is about 1/16" of play between the weight and the bead. Sharp little twitches will result in some "clacking".

Rattles, you say? Wellllllll, I'll tell you...

I use them on occasion, especially in murkier water. Most complaints re weights are either that they shake out easily or that they bulge or split the worm. Solution: Go to a hobby shop that deals in model aviation and/or railroad supplies. Select some brass tubing slightly less in diameter than the (tubular) rattles you use.

Are you paying attention? Good!

Now, using your lady's Revlon Shaping/Finishing nail file, Shaping side first, file one or both end(s) of the tubing to bevel the edge. Try to form a uniform "cone" or funnel shape. Then, use the finishing side to further hone the edges.

To use, bend the worm in a U-shape at the selected insertion point, "drill" the sharpened end of the tube into the critter, making sure you stay centered and that you dont poke through the plastic. Go about and inch, then pull the tube out very quickly. This should cause the cut part of the plastic to be visible at the opening. Grasp it between thumb and forefinger and try to stretch out and break off so much of it as you can.

You have now formed a pocket in the worm. This, if you've used the right diameter tube for the selected weight, has alleviated PART of the pop-out problem.

Step Two: Put a small drop of super glue into the pocket, then QUICKLY force the weight in so far as it will go. Wait a few moments before use. In fact, it's better to do a few the night before. You might also put a tidy drop into the "wound" after inserting the weight.

Caution: Be certain that you select the location for the weight so as not to block insertion of the hook point. While I prefer to have the weight AHEAD of the hook point, if space is limited, I'll insert it behind, given sufficiant thickness of the plastic. For instance, I'll use a 2/0 on a 7" Power Worm and place the weight behind the point. The "Breeding Ring" of the worm is usually the best place.

F. Rod

[Vyron]

Thanks for taking the time 2 answer FlyRod.

1 question:

What hook (offset ,EWG,brand etc) u use for :

7'' worm and 10'' worm

sweet beaver

brush hawg

lizard etc.

I use 2/0 offset for my worms but i m thinking 2 switch into EWG as i tend 2 lose less fish like this and i can switch 2 creature style faster. I want ur opinion or any other on that

[Matt Fly]

I follow the rule of: " if it isn't broke, don't mess with it".    My catch rates never suffered with all the new types of hooks out there.      90% of the time, I have used the standard straight shanked hook.    For 25 years before all those new fangled hooks came out, was the traditional straight shanked hook.  

The question is, When you switched, changed hook styles, has your catch rate improved?    I honestly couldn't tell.

I have asked in the past on hooks and C-rig's and swallowed hooks, one reason I didn't like c-rigs.    I will take a few recommendations and give them a thorough testing this summer.  

I use the strongest, smallest hook allowable.   7" is 2/0,   and a 10" is 4/0.  

Lots of bass records were set by crappie fishermen using soft gold hooks and crappie jigs.  

[FlyRod]

Thanks for taking the time 2 answer FlyRod.

1 question:

What hook (offset ,EWG,brand etc) u use for :

7'' worm and 10'' worm

sweet beaver

brush hawg

lizard etc.

I use 2/0 offset for my worms but i m thinking 2 switch into EWG as i tend 2 lose less fish like this and i can switch 2 creature style faster. I want ur opinion or any other on that

I'm pretty stuck on the Gamakatsu EWG hooks for most applications.

7" worm, such as Berkley Power Worm, usually 2/0, especially if inserting a rattle in the "breeding ring" of the worm. Maybe a 3/0 if water isn't too clear OR at night. 7" ZOOM Trick Worm, Strike King 3X, or similar, get a 2/0 OR 3/0 EWG,  depending on presentation.

10" worm, such as 10" Power Worm, 6/0 to 7/0 EWG Gamakatsu.

Sweet Beaver OR similar lures, such as YUM Wooly Hawg Tail or Wooly Hawg Craw: It depends on the length of the lure. I choose a hook that will allow the hook point to be so far back as possible and still have sufficient plastic present to hold it.  Examples: SUPER Brush Hog (Shorter than a Brush Hog), a 2/0 EWG. YUM 3" Wooly Hawg Tail, a #1 (NOT 1/0) EWG. Kinami/Yamamoto Skirted Grub, a 1/0 to assure having some "body" left where the point is inserted. NOTE: I often fish the skirted grub on a Spot Stalker jig head with the wire weed guard.

4" Lizard: Usually a #1. 6": 2/0 with rattle, daytime or dark; 3/0 night if no rattle.

It may seem to that I use a lot of smaller softies and I do. I fish mostly "Highland" Lakes here in Texas; Canyon, Boerne, etc, and they are pretty clear as well as not being noted as "Big Bass" lakes. I do adjust when fishing lakes such as Bastrop, Choke Canyon, etc.

Good luck and be safe!

FR

[Panamoka_Bassin]

Well, since FlyRod just wrote a very good article, I'll only speak of what I use.

I agree with the small hook idea, especially since I've been using some plastice grubs lately.

I've gone through 2 bags of Kinami 5" cinamon purple twin tail skirt grubs on a 2/0 round bend worm hook.  With a 1/8 or 1/16 oz bullet, depending on the wind, I'm getting some really nice flutter.  If those aren't working (which isn't often), I've been switching to a Venom green pumpkin tube worm, rigged the same way, but with a 2/0 circle hook instead.  

[K_Mac]

FlyRod

I really like the idea of cutting a pocket in the worm to hold a rattle. I will give that try. I am not sure it is very manly to use a lady's Revlon nail file to sharpen the punch/cutting tool though. I will probably buy a small fine file and some emery cloth to do the job. It may not work as well, but will be done using real tools. : Thanks for the input.

[skeeter944]

i like eagle claws lazer sharp hooks.i use 3/0 heavy wire for 7'' worms and 2/0 medium wire for weightless presentations on spinning rigs and for 5'' and 6'' worms. i might trie the gammy's ewg 2/0 or 3/0 sometime,but the price is a little high. i can get 25 eagle claws for $4 and 10 gammys for $4.i would rather spend my time fishing than working so i can get money to go fishing. IMO.

[Guest avid]

Quite a treatise there Mr. Flyrod.  

Very enjoyable reading.  I got a bit of a kick out of the metal tubing and filing part.  You really go through all that to put a rattle in a worm?

Well like my Grandfather used to Sauzich his own (grand ole Italian Gent)

The only information I would dispute would be the short fat gap hooks in the finesse worm.  I find that it makes the worm a little nose heavy thereby comprising the horizontal fall.  I like a light wire straight shank hook 3/0.  It gives nice weight distribution, a better horizontal drop and their is still enough free tail to wiggle.

If your fat gap isn't producing so well for you one day, try the straight shank.  It could be the difference on any given day.

[ScootZilla]

Well i can say is match the worm size to the hook size.Plus rig it right.

Scoot

[Vyron]

Great info guys .thanks

I bet lot of guys learnt new things here , including me

[FlyRod]

Quite a treatise there Mr. Flyrod.  

Very enjoyable reading.  I got a bit of a kick out of the metal tubing and filing part.  You really go through all that to put a rattle in a worm?

Well like my Grandfather used to Sauzich his own (grand ole Italian Gent)

The only information I would dispute would be the short fat gap hooks in the finesse worm.  I find that it makes the worm a little nose heavy thereby comprising the horizontal fall.  I like a light wire straight shank hook 3/0.  It gives nice weight distribution, a better horizontal drop and their is still enough free tail to wiggle.

If your fat gap isn't producing so well for you one day, try the straight shank.  It could be the difference on any given day.

I shall indeed give that a try. Thanks for the tip.

FR