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Posted

I have read here that if I gut-hook a bass, or it swallows the hook...  that I need to just leave the hook in and leave 12-18" of line as I release him.

leaving that amount of line, is that true?  how does that work?

how does the hook eventually come out?  and can the bass choke on the hook?

some questions that came up,

thanks

Posted

I usually cut the line as close to the hook as I can. The hook will rust out before the fish dies, unless you try to dig the hook out and injure them. I have actually caught fish with the hook still in them. It is much less traumatic to leave it in than try and perform surgery to get it out.

  • Super User
Posted

The biologist at Athens say "cut as much as you can reach without causing any further injury".  I have caught a 7lber with 4 other hooks in its mouth not counting mine.  2 were pretty much rusted out, one had began to rust,  the other one was fresh, still showed redness around the hook.  This fish was very healthy and had plenty to fight about.  

  • Super User
Posted

The last bass that I hooked deep , I was able to cut the hook off and take it out without any apparent trauma to the bass.

Posted

Bass-Brat, not to try to upset you or anything, but I have had several crappie do that to me, only to look around 30 mins later, and it be a floater.  

So, that's why I always use the policy that if it is deeper than I feel comfortable getting it from, the bass get a trophy from me, that is, the hook stays with the bass.

I would rather have the bass be in healthy conditions, than to risk the death of it.

Posted

If you have wire cutters and can cut the hook without doing further damage this is always the best.  However, cutting the line and leaving the hook intact does not keep the fish from feeding.  I have caught fish within two to three days of the time that I cut the hook and found my other hook still in 'em (I think I know cause I use Power Pro and almost no one else who fishes that pond does).  There is also a procedure for removing the hook (known as the In-Fisherman method) that has been discussed here that can work in certain circumstances, but takes a little practice to learn -- perhaps someone can post a link to the website that shows this.

  • Super User
Posted

NWGABASSMASTER............You do have to admit that it might be a little easier to remove a hook from a LARGE-MOUTH than a crappie. Now with that said , be assured if the hook is in a vital area , I just cut the line just like you.

  • Super User
Posted

I asked the Eagle Claw guys at the Classic how long does it take for a hook to rust.

I was told that the barb end and the eye can rust out in two weeks.  It takes a little longer for the shaft to rust away.

I always leave the hooks in the fish. Tonight, I caught a beautiful bream and he had swallowed the hook so I cut the line and let him go.

I kept watching for him to float to the surface but never saw him for over an hour.

Posted

What I do, is I at least try to get the hook out first, but VERY gently if it's in a vital area.  If it's not possible at all, just leave it.  A bass' blood will coagulate in the water.  Totally opposite from a human.  Meaning that our blood will coagulate in the air, but in the water it will run, and keep bleeding.  Where as a bass' blood will coagulate in the water, and keep bleeding in the air.  This means, that if you do have a bleeding bass with a deep hook, let him go as soon as possible.  Just some info I've learned over the years.  Tight Lines!

Posted

Check out the web site Reb showed - It really works great after a couple tries - also I carry a pair of diagonal cutters that have a long neck - I can cut most of the hook off if necessary.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I pulled up two different crankbaits last summer while carolina rigging...neither had its trebles left. One had obviously been down a long time, judging by the amount of algae growing on it, but the other was still pretty shiny, with no growth at all.

I've noticed, though, that alot of the red "bleeding" hooks are either nickel, or nickel alloy, or brass or brass alloy. i doubt these hooks will rust. I use a "catch and release" hook when wacky worming, which seems to have a smaller barb on it. I also use

the In-fisherman technique listed above. I've only had a couple of fish where it wouldn't release, although I generally have to use needlenose, as I have short stubby fingers. If you can't get the hook with your finger to bend it down, pull the line gently; it does the same thing. It does help to have three hands when using this technique, though.

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