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Posted

Haven't tried dropshotting yet so was reading up on it. The article I was reading talked about using a pegged worm weight at the end of the line to keep from losing the whole rig. Those of you that use dropshotting, does this make any sense or does this just set you up to lose a lot of worm weights ;D? Also, the depth you are fishing determines how much weight you use. Is there an average weight for fishing say 15' or 20'? Thanks for any help ;)!!!

                                As Ever,

                                 skillet

  • Super User
Posted
Haven't tried dropshotting yet so was reading up on it. The article I was reading talked about using a pegged worm weight at the end of the line to keep from losing the whole rig. Those of you that use dropshotting, does this make any sense or does this just set you up to lose a lot of worm weights ;D? Also, the depth you are fishing determines how much weight you use. Is there an average weight for fishing say 15' or 20'? Thanks for any help ;)!!!

                              As Ever,

                              skillet

A pegged worm weight would work in a pinch.  The casting sinkers with the brass loop will also work.  You do want to use something that will allow you to retrieve the hook and lose the weight if necessary.

I fish the rig from 1' to 30', usually use either a 1/8 or 1/4.  I base the weight on what I'm doing with the rig.  If I want it to stay on bottom, I'll go with a heavier weight.  If I'm fishing it horizontally, I'll go with a lighter weight.

Sometimes I'll fish the rig on a straight bluff wall.  When doing that, I tend it fish it more like a jig and vary my sinker weights to change the rate of fall.  I was fishing a tournament last summer on Douglas in Dandridge.  The fish only wanted a finesse worm and a 3/16 oz. weight.  1/8 was too slow, 1/4 was too fast.  I found that out pretty quick when I ran out of 3/16 weights.

Posted

If you were asking for burley's opinion specifically, I apologize in advance.

I like the "specialized" weights that have a clip on them, similar to this.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_37406____SearchResults

They make one that is cylindrical. Two purposes: It leaves just the weight in a snag, as mentioned, and the cylindrical shape slides through rocky bottoms better.

Posted

Also I'd like to ask how far do you guys suspend the weight below the hook?  Most everyone I have seen using the drop shot let the weight hang a little lower than the end of the worm they are using.

When looking at the weights someone recommended on the BPS site, they had they had pre rigged hooks on a 6 ft. line.  

cwb60

Posted

inbetween my weight and hook, i usually leave 8 inches. i never use it out of the range of 6-14 inches though. a couple of people i have fished with have used four inches and caught fish and i saw a diagram just the other day that showed 36 inches of space

as for sinkers, you want the ones that have the......(i dont know what you call it but is a piece of metal that sticks straight up) so that your line will break right at the sinker should you get hung up in rocks. The cylindrical weights come through the rock the best, as the others have mentioned. i use 1/8 and 3/16 only, but heavier weights will be necessary for deeper presentations. For fifteen to twenty feet, i would use 1/8, but i tend to go light. i use my 3/16 oz for only 30+

For hooks, use anywhere from a size 4-1/0, but i like to use size 2

Bait wise, i use the Roboworm 4" sculpins in various colors. i pretty much use this exclusively but several other things work. tubes lizards, anything your crazy enough to put on, just have fun with it

The best price i have found on drop shot weights like the ones described above were at handpoured worms. I just ordered a one hundred pack a couple days ago and am waiting for shipment, ill let you guys know how they do. As for price on the hooks, you cant beat hookerz tackle. i will be placing an order for those once i run out of my expensive gammys. on that site they are called octopus hooks.

I find that dragging the dropshot produces best, but is also the costliest. I think i lost about ten rigs and 15 sinkers in two days of fishing

Remember to not set the hook to hard as well, its almost a reel set. No crossed eyes, just lift your rod straight up and start reeling the fish.

sorry about the length

now go get some fish

Posted
So in your opinion are the specialized dropshot weights worth the money? I also would like to try drop shotting soon.

I used to use a split shot on the end of the line, But I started using the drop shot weights and I really like them.  Easier to use.  I started pouring my own, so I am well stocked up on them.

  • Super User
Posted
So in your opinion are the specialized dropshot weights worth the money? I also would like to try drop shotting soon.

Not in my opinion, but I'm not much interested in dropshotting. I've spent maybe 20 hours dropshotting over the last two years, and have half a dozen dinks to show for my time. Not the most productive technique I've ever used.

I don't understand the idea of buying those special weights, with the clips. Spend a buck fifty for a weight to save a 15 cent hook? Makes no sense to me.

Posted
Quote
Quote
So in your opinion are the specialized dropshot weights worth the money? I also would like to try drop shotting soon.

Not in my opinion, but I'm not much interested in dropshotting. I've spent maybe 20 hours dropshotting over the last two years, and have half a dozen dinks to show for my time. Not the most productive technique I've ever used.

I don't understand the idea of buying those special weights, with the clips. Spend a buck fifty for a weight to save a 15 cent hook? Makes no sense to me.

where do you get your weights?

besides, its either lose your weight, or lose your hook weight and bait, you take the pick

 

  • Super User
Posted
So in your opinion are the specialized dropshot weights worth the money? I also would like to try drop shotting soon.

Not in my opinion? Like someone mentioned I like those brass eyed bank sinkers in 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4. So far I have not found any reason for heavier sinkers. Drop Shot is a dink and panfish magnet but will also catch bigger fish.

Allen

  • Super User
Posted

Try the Kut Tail Worms by GY, too.

The *** and Slider worms work good, too.

I also like the #2 hook although a gold #1 works great.

Be sure to run the line back through the hook's eye from the front of the hook so the hook will stand straight out.

I usually put hook 8 to 12 inches above sinker.

Lots of fun to fish.  And you will be surprised at the types of fish that will hit the rig, too.  ;)

Posted

First off, Thanks Everyone, for your responses :)! Second, have not heard that before "dink magnet". I was under the impression that it is a pretty poplular tactic ;)...

                         As Ever,

                          skillet

BTW don't think I could ever be a trophy fisherman only (not enough patience) but I catch enough small fish with BIG fish attitude ;). Don't need to target them ;D...

Posted

Another thing:

I've noticed that the strikes are different in that sometimes you never really feel a strike. Sometimes, all you'll see is the line slack on the surface. The fish will sometimes hit it from below and you get a push effect rather than a pull. No ticks, or bumps, just surface slack.

Posted

Lots of fun to fish. And you will be surprised at the types of fish that will hit the rig, too. ;)

X2! I've caught a lot of catfish on this rig.

Don't forget to NOT set the hook; just reel and let the rod load.

Posted

A clip-on ball weight is the best since the cylindrical weight will most likely get caught especially when you need to cast out a little and retrieve back ever so slowly to find the fish instead of dropping vertically down.

Drop-shotting should be presented as natural as possible so the predator fish in this case bass cannot tell the difference from an unaware bait fish or your lure.

The ideal drop-shot rig would be a light enough line (no more than 10lb test) with small profile clip-on ball weight heavy enough to get to the bottom without spooking the fish with a Gamakatsu bait hook size 6 or 8 nose hooking a 3.5" Fishbelly Hawg Shad with 12 to 18 inches apart from the weight. This allow you to adjust if the fish are closer to the bottom. Of course, the rod and reel system needs to match with this outfit. This means a heavy-medium rod is not recommended.

The rod and reel system along with this rig should do the job without having you to do most of the work.

You will catch many fish - big and small.

Go and enjoy catching more fish...  ;)

Posted

I drop shot a bunch during the summer months. I usually power fish until I locate a bite. At that point I attempt to comb the area with whatever approach is best for that particular spot. More often than not, I pick up my drop shot rig.

I prefer to use the clip on weights, although any of the methods mentioned above will certainly work.

I base my tag length on the type of bottom I'm fishing. For small rock/gravel, I keep it around 10-12 inches. For grassy types, I may choose a tag upwards of 20 inches.

In my opinion, drop shotting is a great technique. Its a technique that can potentially catch any fish in the presentation area. That means you stand to coax both "dinks" and the pigs, into taking the bait. While I do catch some smaller fish, I've caught several largemouth over 6lbs this summer, all on a drop shot.

  • Super User
Posted

I can only add a few things here.

Although DS is most often associated with light finesse tackle, I have caught fish using anything from 4# FC and a specialized "DS spinning rod" to 65# braid, a heavy weight, and a flipping stick.

There are two key attributes that make up a DS rig.  First, the weight is on the bottom.  Second, the hook is in direct connection with the rod tip, unlike a Carolina or Texas rig.

The purpose of the rig is to hold ANY soft plastic bait in the strike zone longer to entice a strike, even if you are not fishing vertically.  It can also be used when drifting, to keep the bait just above nasty cover, such as zebra mussels in the Great Lakes.  You can also do a vertical version of "poofing" by dropping the weight repeatedly to the bottom, kicking up bottom debris like a C-rig.

Use a hook that is appropriate to the bait and cover you are fishing.  I like lite wire Owner Downshot Offset hooks for weedless, and Owner Mosquito hooks for nose hooking.  I've even used 7/0 jerkbait hooks when using the magnum flipping rig for "cannonballing" pads with big flukes.

Use line that's appropriat for cover.  Braid for weeds, FC rocks. Mono works well too, but not as well for deep presentations.  FC shines for this since it sinks, and allows you to use the smallest possible weight.

Speaking of weight, bigger is not better.  Use the smallest possible - just enough to get the bait down, and hold it in place.  I like pencil weights for current and round weights everywhere else.  

The point of the specialized clip on weights is not to clear out your wallet, but to make the rig QUICKLY adjustable.  

Many times a 6" adjustment in the length of the drop line has meant the difference between fish on or skunked.  

I also like tungsten due to its smaller profile, which allows it to get down even faster than other alternative weights, like steel or tin (I'm in NY - not much lead to be found).

Finally, experiment.  Floating type, "shaky head" type baits don't sing, and therefore just shake.  Salty baits sink (some pretty quickly, too) and allow you to work the tip.  Shake soft and slow, twitch like you are on your first date.  The fish will tell you what they want.

Posted

GREAT replies everyone! Thanks ever so much! Definitely got enough info for a good running start ...

                         As Ever,

                          skillet

Posted

I can't believe that some people do not catch nice fish on the DS.  I use it a lot, and catch a lot of fish on this.  Today I was using a T-rig with no success, swapped to a DS and caught some fish.  It is a wonderful technique.  I have used finesse worms, centipedes, 4in lizards, trick sticks, and other things on the DS with success.

  • Super User
Posted
Another thing:

I've noticed that the strikes are different in that sometimes you never really feel a strike. Sometimes, all you'll see is the line slack on the surface. The fish will sometimes hit it from below and you get a push effect rather than a pull. No ticks, or bumps, just surface slack.

I think the rod, whose hands the rod is in, and the type of line used can make a difference in improving what you have experienced.

I almost always feel the nibble, take, or tug.

If I don't, and it is super rare, I feel the vibration that gets transmitted through my line. This is more subtle than the other scenarios previously listed.

When I feel that vibration, I know it has to be a fish because I know I didn't cause it.

Posted
Another thing:

I've noticed that the strikes are different in that sometimes you never really feel a strike. Sometimes, all you'll see is the line slack on the surface. The fish will sometimes hit it from below and you get a push effect rather than a pull. No ticks, or bumps, just surface slack.

I think the rod, whose hands the rod is in, and the type of line used can make a difference in improving what you have experienced.

I almost always feel the nibble, take, or tug.

If I don't, and it is super rare, I feel the vibration that gets transmitted through my line. This is more subtle than the other scenarios previously listed.

When I feel that vibration, I know it has to be a fish because I know I didn't cause it.

I use a 6'9 avid dropshot rod, and 6# or 8# berkley 100% fluoro.

I guess it must be my hand. They don't have any new ones to replace it with at BPS or *** though. I'll guess I'll just have to make due with these old meathooks. ;)

  • Super User
Posted
Another thing:

I've noticed that the strikes are different in that sometimes you never really feel a strike. Sometimes, all you'll see is the line slack on the surface. The fish will sometimes hit it from below and you get a push effect rather than a pull. No ticks, or bumps, just surface slack.

I think the rod, whose hands the rod is in, and the type of line used can make a difference in improving what you have experienced.

I almost always feel the nibble, take, or tug.

If I don't, and it is super rare, I feel the vibration that gets transmitted through my line. This is more subtle than the other scenarios previously listed.

When I feel that vibration, I know it has to be a fish because I know I didn't cause it.

I use a 6'9 avid dropshot rod, and 6# or 8# berkley 100% fluoro.

I guess it must be my hand. They don't have any new ones to replace it with at BPS or *** though. I'll guess I'll just have to make due with these old meathooks. ;)

Dang, that is a sweet rod and line choice for sure! Well, don't feel too bad. I have mentioned this before, but even an ugly stik is sensitive in my hands. ;D

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