mountain bike?

[wagn]

Hey guys.

I'm looking to getting into mountain biking and wondered if anyone here has any good advice on where to start.

I'm really looking just to ride some dirt and woods trails. I'm not looking for anything really complicated.

What's a good beginner bike to start with? And what price range am I looking at. I want to get into it as cheap as possible but I don't want a piece of junk either.

[bigfruits]

if youre not planning on spending over 1k or so DO NOT get a dual suspension. cheaper ones are heavy and not nessecary.

id spend at least $400 if you can. more if possible.

"good value" brands:

jamis

giant

specialized

trek

look for shimano parts and a total weight below 26 lbs.

i like shimano xt and xtr on my drivetrain.

PM me if you buy a frame and do a custom build.

[Root beer]

You can get a good Haro Flightline 3d or sport for $450-$520 price range. Both of those models come with disc brakes. I'll be first to tell you that disc brakes are a necessity. lol. I don't know a whole lot about hardtails for other brands. I got a Haro Flightline, but I'm currently in process of getting me a full-suspension Giant Trance.

Where do you live? I ride on average 10 miles a day with at least once a month being a 20-40 mile epic ride on trails with lot of climbing, descending, and really technical. Plus every trail I ride except for 2 are singletrack. I've only rode once all week due to downpour of rain making the trails soggy. You should also buy you nice pair of shorts with chamois lining and padding...Eventually your @$$ be chaffed.

I would love to buy a frame and do a custom build, but it way too expensive for a college student. I'm almost saved up for a good full-suspension let alone a custom build. lol

[Olebiker]

Start by going to a bike shop.  You can't get a decent bike at WalMart or Target.  As someone else mentioned, don't worry about full suspension until and unless you really get into the sport.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Prioritize your investment:

1. Drive Train

2. Brakes

3. Suspension

Do some research and get a pro shop to size the bike to you. that makes all the difference.

[Root beer]

Prioritize your investment:

1. Drive Train

2. Brakes

3. Suspension

Do some research and get a pro shop to size the bike to you. that makes all the difference.

I think this is something you ought take into account in that order when buying a bike. Especially hardtail. My drivetrain after three years already blown to crap. hahah. Every once in awhile it shifts on its own. I ride  with one of the mechanic at local bike shop and him and I spent 20 minutes fiddling with cables and stuff on my rear derailleur  one day.. It still shifts on its own when it wants too.

[wagn]

Rootbeer. I live in Peterborough NH.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

I've checked out a couple of Bike shops in my area, and truthfully the staff has been less then helpful.

I've been looking primarily specialized and Jamis. I like Giants as well but no one around here seems to sell them.

I'm also thinking of buying used on craigslist. I know I could get alot more bike for my money, but I also know that there is a risk of getting a lemon.

[bigfruits]

used is actually a good idea. find out what size top tube is good for you at a store first. im 5'10" with normal size legs and 18" is right for me.

definately check out the bike before you buy it and do alot of research.

find one with a good 3 or 4lb frame and look up reviews on it here:

mtbr.com

edit: unless youre looking to do big jumps/drops, you probably want a 'cross country' frame/bike. if you end up going full suspension, get a 'trail' type frame. theyre a little heavier but they usually have bigger and adjustable shocks and the forks are disc brake ready.

[Root beer]

edit: unless youre looking to do big jumps/drops, you probably want a 'cross country' frame/bike. if you end up going full suspension, get a 'trail' type frame. theyre a little heavier but they usually have bigger and adjustable shocks and the forks are disc brake ready.

Not true. There are plenty of full-suspension out there that are lighter than hardtail bike. You don't need to buy a full-suspension for type of riding you have described, plus full-suspension are expensive. I would wait a year or so see how you like riding before taking that plunge. Everyone I've talked too has started out on a hardtail before buying a full-suspension.

There are generally three types of mountain bikes: Cross-country bikes, Downhill, and All-Mountain. I used cross-country. The different is the geometry of the frame and such. I got a Haro Flightline Two right now, but I'm about to buy a Giant Trance x2: http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/trance.x2/3897/37061/

The best advice I can offer you is, set a budget try to spend as much as you can and test ride before you buy. Shift all the gears before you buy and see it feels for you.

[wagn]

I've also been looking at a Felt q520. It seems to be a pretty set up for a price of $400.

Still going to keep my eye on the used market as well

[Root beer]

I went and look at that Felt, it seems like a good entry level bike. I'm not so sure about the tires, but I haven't been to NH, so I'm not sure how the terrains are in that area.

A guy I ride with loves the Felt Virtue, but that all I know about Felt. lol.

[bigfruits]

edit: unless youre looking to do big jumps/drops, you probably want a 'cross country' frame/bike. if you end up going full suspension, get a 'trail' type frame. theyre a little heavier but they usually have bigger and adjustable shocks and the forks are disc brake ready.

Not true. There are plenty of full-suspension out there that are lighter than hardtail bike. You don't need to buy a full-suspension for type of riding you have described, plus full-suspension are expensive.

whats not true? that a full suspension trail bike is heavier than a cross country build? trail bikes have stronger components, and bigger shocks while not being an all out downhill bike. yes, full suspension trail bikes are heavier than cross-country hard tails.

of course one could build a super-light dual suspension cross-country that can be 8lbs lighter than a walmart hardtail bike. is that your point?

edit:

what im saying, you take a hardtail frame and a dual suspension frame. lets say they both weigh 3.5lbs. then you add the same drive train, seat post, pedals etc. even if you did not add disc brakes to the full sus bike, the only difference on the bike would be the rear shock. the rear shock does not float on air.

i have a 22lb cross country hardtail for single track, fire roads and hard gravel/dirt. when i bought my full suspension, i wanted a totally different feel for totally different trails. so i went with a few more adjustable centimeters of front and rear travel, disc brakes, and stronger rims. i estimate it at 26-27 lbs. thats what i was recommending in a full suspension trail bike.

no, i do not recommend a full suspension as a first bike unless you already love to ride, are willing to spend a few thousand, and your trails have roots and rock gardens in your path.

[Root beer]

I suppose, but it really depends...And the weight different is very minimal. Hardly noticeable.

[Jaheff]

My rear suspension locks out, meaning i can pull a little lever and make it into a hardtail. I would change that order if it were me..

1. drive train

2. suspension

3. brakes

Cheaper to upgrade your brakes to disc, then upgrade suspension.But for 400 buck, i doubt you will get disc anyway.The old style brakes are fine unless you plan on racing.

[bigfruits]

I suppose, but it really depends...And the weight different is very minimal. Hardly noticeable.

yeah sure. almost a 25% increase in weight. cant even tell.

:

[wagn]

My rear suspension locks out, meaning i can pull a little lever and make it into a hardtail. I would change that order if it were me..

1. drive train

2. suspension

3. brakes

Cheaper to upgrade your brakes to disc, then upgrade suspension.But for 400 buck, i doubt you will get disc anyway.The old style brakes are fine unless you plan on racing.

That felt bike I've been looking at has disc brakes, and a locking front shock. It's the only bike in that price range that seems to have both of those options.  I can get a specialized hardrock with disc brakes for about 460, but no lock out.....the Felt really seems to be the best deal I can find

[Root beer]

Guys that I know that race, ride hardtail because it faster and they rarely used lockout on the fork. Hardtail bikes are faster than full-suspension, but you be fine with either Specialized or Felt. Ride them both if you can then make a decision base on that. Let us know what you decide to do.

[NateFollmer]

I can't stress enough how much a good drive train is essential. I made the mistake of getting a cheap bike and sometimes when I would stand up and pedal, then shift gears, the freakin' chain would skip and I'd smash my knee off the front. That HURTS like nothing else.

I can't speak for Haro or Specialized Mt. Bikes, but they made some AWESOME BMX bikes back when I used to ride. They just built some Mt. bike trails here around Raystown Lake so I may be joining you in a search for a decent bike

[Jaheff]

www.bikeforums.net

here ya go....

[Root beer]

I'm a regular here also: http://forums.mtbr.com/

[wagn]

I'm a regular here also: http://forums.mtbr.com/

I've been reading a whole bunch on this forum. It's been very helpful.

[webertime]

I'm a regular here also: http://forums.mtbr.com/

I've been reading a whole bunch on this forum. It's been very helpful.

I'm one there a bunch too (same user name)... 

I've managed shops,designed frames for companies, raced DH and XC, I've even built wheels and worked with World Cup Pro's and Olympians. 

At this pricepoint and I am not knocking it... EVERYTHING will wear rather quickly, it is what it is.  You are just getting into it, MY #1 consideration would be FIT FIT FIT...  Sure you can get a sick bike on sale, but if it doesn't fit you will HATE it.  SO ignore the lock out vs. no lock out, SRAM vs. Shimano, Giant vs. Specialized, etc...  Fact is nearly ALL of the frames in your pricepoint are designed by a company then the design is sent to Pacific Cycles, Giant, Kinesis, or Merida to build.  Forks are all made by SR or RST regardless of the sticker.

So go test ride a TON of bikes, even ones way out of your pricepoint, get an idea of what you like and what jumping up to $600 or $800 feels like. It's just like walking into the tackle shop and looking at a CORE when you are really shopping for a Citica. 

Ask if they have demos at riding centers nearby, check out end of season rentals being sold by ski resorts or bike shops.  Don't deal with craigslist, too big a risk for stolen and just beat up stuff.  Check the VT/NH/Maine board on MTBR and ask for good shops near you.  Also check out www.bustedspoke.com it's New England riding site that might have some good advice as well.  Best of luck, if you have any questions at all shoot me a PM.

[wagn]

[webertime]

It's just like walking into the tackle shop and looking at a CORE when you are really shopping for a Citica.

[Root beer]

When you find the bike you like, wait til you get on the trails. That where it gets really fun.  I was flying through tight corners and narrow path the other day and I came around a corner only to see 4 hikers and slammed the daylight out of my brakes. Lets just say the hikers were more scared than I was and told me to "slow down." I'm still looking for speed limit sign.  ;D ;D I didn't say anything to them I just nod at them and tried regain my speed and momentum.

That the thing about riding bikes, you gotta keep your eyes fixed down the trails.