best subwoofers?

[rocknfish9001]

I am looking for the best all around sounding subwoofers. I want a 12-15 inch with around 2000+ watts of power each. I also dont want to spend too much. Id like something that operates around 1000 watts. Also, im looking for something that has bass to rattle your roof, yet plays rock songs well. Does such a speaker exist?

[fourbizz]

As a total rock/metal junkie, I would HAVE to recommend that you not get 12's or 15's. I think that the best sub for this music is a 10" Sub.

I run 3 Memphis 10's in a sealed box. The sealed box really helps keep it tight and crisp. But you lose some volume.

I also run Memphis components in my doors and pillars. Zapco amp. Kenwood deck.

PLEASE PLEASE don't run 15's if you want to listen to rock. 12's can sound OK but generally are better suited for music with a slower, deeper, bass line.

You might look into a JL Audio W7. Just one will FREAKING pound!

[tipptruck1]

Man its not watts that matter. Its the dbs that matter. If you don't belive me ask lbh when he gets back. He builds systems for a living. But i have had small subs and large subs. For me the large 15 in subs works better for metal and rock. But you can go wrong with jls amps and subs. But if you want a system that runs at 2000 watts its going to cost you more then you planed. Just the subs and amps are going to be from 4000-8000 dollers. Your going to need at least two subs any were from 1000-2000 dollers. The same gos for subs. Then you have to replace all the speakers in your car. There gos at lest 1000 more. Then your going to need at least two extra battries in the trunk. So have fun/

[rocknfish9001]

I would like to get 12 or 15's to hit the bass notes and really bump. I already have 4 6x9's so i got the tweeners covered. So its db's that matter. Ive got to check that out. What is in a reasonable price range that really bumps and plays well?

[tipptruck1]

Well you can always buy my subs iam trying to sell to you. They sound great but they can't beat my jls I have now. But a set of subs and amp will run you any were from a few hundard dollers to a grand. But If you plan on having a system for a while I would go with a good system. Don't go and buy a 300 doller syetem and expect it to sound good or last as long as the bigger names in the sound world. But there one you should never get sony. I have had sony subs and have sounded like crap.

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

I would like to get 12 or 15's to hit the bass notes and really bump. I already have 4 6x9's so i got the tweeners covered. So its db's that matter. Ive got to check that out. What is in a reasonable price range that really bumps and plays well?

Nothing that is 15" with four 6x9's trying to cover the bass,mids and highs.

If you insist on running 6x9's, definately go with 10's.  IMO, you think you want db's but what you really want is loud music.  DB's are established through playing loud bass tones (single frequencies)(Burps), not music.

This isn't saying Db's can be established with 10's, not at all.  Three ten's (30 inches of surface space), sealed. can pound pretty nicely when matched with the right amp and head unit.

If you want loud music, I suggest losing the 6x9's and replacing with components.  Run 2-3 tens, sealed or 1-2 12's DEFINATELY sealed, and most importantly look into a high output Head unit (4v and up)

Why 2000 watts?  This is not directly related to loudness.  I'll show you plenty of 3-5000 watt systems that when matched against a single w7 with a 6v head unit and a 1000w amp will get stomped on before the knob hits 1/2 way.

Remember that installation is 60% of your sound.  Dampner like brown bread or Dynamat are priceless if you want a car to hit stiff.  All the bass in the world is no good of you don't harness it.

I don't use any but I've installed plenty of sony products to know that like most all manufacturers, with proper installation and forthought to sound dynamics, a sony system pounds like the rest of 'em.  JMO

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

Man its not watts that matter. Its the dbs that matter. If you don't belive me ask lbh when he gets back. He builds systems for a living. But i have had small subs and large subs. For me the large 15 in subs works better for metal and rock. But you can go wrong with jls amps and subs. But if you want a system that runs at 2000 watts its going to cost you more then you planed. Just the subs and amps are going to be from 4000-8000 dollers. Your going to need at least two subs any were from 1000-2000 dollers. The same gos for subs. Then you have to replace all the speakers in your car. There gos at lest 1000 more. Then your going to need at least two extra battries in the trunk. So have fun/

Tipp is reffering to true wattage, not the watts that are supposedly in amps like pymarid, pyle, boss, legacy, etc.  If you see a 2000w amp for $100, realize it's just a number printed on the box to help sell amps seeing as how there is no accurate way to measure the wattage of a system.

I have an MA Audio 2502 that runs 2 twelves (12's because the front stage is heavily loaded with mid bass and bass speakers that carry right up to the low frewuencies and then some,slight overlap on the crossover slope)  The amp is advertised as a 2000w, 2 channel amp when run at 1ohm (which is like driving your car with the pedal floored without ever letting up, car is only gonna last so long)  Anyway, the amp probab;y puts out between 900 and 980 true watts.  Plenty.  If you think that can't get it done, come sit in the passengers seat and I'll play a test tone that will bring your lunch up.....literally.  And on top of that, there are 2 subs so when run in parallel, they run at a cool 1.5 ohms.  

As for the batteries, that's old school.  Add a capacitor.   The general rule is .5 farad of back up per 500 watts.  My current system is 3300 watts (not using all that power, gains are very low to allow for frequency head room) and I run a 5 farad block.  What a capacitor does is when the bass amp draws power from your car, it hit's the capacitor for power instead of straining your alternator/battery.  This is the one thing I would not skimp on if you truly want to get the most out of your products.  Will save you money in the future, alternators don't like car audio.   Alternator upgrades are a must if you plan to run anything over 500 true watts without a capacitor.  I run a 200amp alternator made by Ohio Generator.  My headlights DO NOT dim or flicker

If you really want to learn about this stuff, go to sounddomain.com and get on the forum.  Lots of guys will help but there are lots of folks that think they know it all.  For help, PM "Old man Zif" or "Domain Diva".  Top notch advice, always

[5bass]

Best subwoofers?  I'll go old school on you fellas and suggest CERWIN VEGA subs, if they even make them anymore. Many a competition has been won with the CV's poundin'......

[Ghost Rider]

.02 $ worth

You know being a hot roder and hot boater I have my own ideas also but like everyone else it is totally up to you .

I am a Punch fan for speakers esp subs.. my last hot boat i had 2 10" driven by a 400 Rockford Fosgate amp and a 200 pushing 200watt 6X9 my subs had a remote adjustment knob and the use of a good deck you can control any range of music. Its not how loud you can get it ...its how clear it is. No one wants to hear your trunk or the rest of your car make noise as you jam... So go with quality and my 2 cents is drop 2 10" and 1 12" the 12 will cover the longer base notes. Oh watch for peak watts there is no such thing, it is just Distortion of the wave form. Which means crap through your speakers. ,

Have a good deck some on earlier pointed out a deck and i agree with him on that

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

DO NOT MIX SUB SIZES.

A "longer" note has nothing to do with cone size.  If "deeper" was the intended word, the amount of travel the motor has on the pole will determine how low of a frequency you will hit.  Go with a good SQ sub and you'll cover the whole range and believe me, don't be fooled,....they can hit quite hard.

For high quality sound, concentrate an bass and mid-bass.  Sub and high are just the edges of the envelope.

8" drivers, 4-8 of them, 2 tweets, and a couple subs, sealed.  Headunit with 4+ volts and you'll have sound that hit's you in the chest and presses you to the seat.  I promise.

[rocknfish9001]

I think that you have just about talked me into a completley different system. Thinking about something with two 10's and maybe a 12 depending on my budget. My car is wired to hook up multiple amps. Would that be necessary? And finally, what amp would you recommend (brand/make) to power a system like that? I am looking into either audiobahn or alpine 10's, and i like the pyle 12". Hows that sound?

[fourbizz]

Like LBH said DO NOT MIX SUB SIZES!!!!!! You really will regret it. Sounds janky.

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

Especially with a Pyle product in the mix. You get what you pay for.

[Aaron]

can't really help you on the technical part of it but I had 2 memphis 12's in my maxima and I really liked them, not as much THUMP but good quality.

I also had 2 bazooka 12's in my chevelle that sounded pretty good for what they cost, but they were in a custom sealed box.