Rapala DT Series and line?

[JCrzy4Bass]

Hey guys... just curious what kind of line you guys use to throw these.  I throw all my other cranks and rat l traps on 10lb suffix line (superior) and have no issues.  I know these are a bit bigger and heavier so is there any issue with them coming off or breaking off if you throw a hard cast?  

The only other pole I have is my jig/plastics pole braided with 20lb line (suffix high performance) so I could use that if it's not a good idea to throw them on lighter line.  Let me know, cause I picked a couple up and have heard of people losing them and knots breaking and stuff when throwing them.  Just curious for ya'lls input.

I typically used an improved clinch knot for all of my cranks and am most comfortable with that.  

Oh yea... would a snap swivel help at all if there is an issue with the line?  Cause I could pick up some of those need be.

[dumb_dog11]

always use mono for cranks, you need the strecth

your suffix should suffice

swivels could potentially help w/ that prob

i would maybe recommend getting some 12-15lb line, thats what i throw all my cranks on. im also starting to expirament with flouro for cranks

[Guest muddy]

Snap swivels are really not too good for attaching cranks, many threads here have argued the point.They mess with the actions too much. here is what I have used for a long time with no issues:

Just snaps, clinch or poymar knot to it and you can switch baits with ease also. It is still important to check both the knot and line for frays and knicks as always.

This is a link to the Cabelas duo lock, BPS has them also either brnd works fine.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/pod/standard-pod-wrapped.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/pod-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat20166-cat20293&rid=&indexId=cat20293&navAction=push&masterpathid=&navCount=1&parentType=index&parentId=cat20293&id=0011850

[GobbleDog]

A lot of people use mono with cranks for the stretch, but I stick with good ole 10 lb power pro.

One thing about those Rapala DT lures... they definately catch fish, but I've now had 2 DT lures break a different places along the plastic bill.  The first one broke after getting hung up and jerking it back too hard, but the other one broke by just slapping the lure in the water trying to get some grass off.  

They might get a little brittle after sitting in my box under the hot Florida sun for a year or so, but I've never had that happen with any other crankbaits.  Maybe it was just a fluke, who knows.

[tyrius.]

You should be just fine with your standard mono for throwing DT's.  They aren't that big.  I'm currently using 10lb mono on my cranking rod (am considering switching it up to 12 lb though).

I used to use the clinch too, but have since moved onto the palomar.  It seems to be superior in all the tests that I have seen.

Don't use snap swivels with cranks.  I use the Norman speed clips but Duolock snaps (no swivel) are good too.  

To the guy who broke a couple DT's, that was a problem reported with some of the older versions.  The new ones should not have the same issue.  Also, how difficult is it to pick the weeds off with your hands?  

[Nwfisher]

With all the crankbait tips saying use the crank in 1/2-3/4 of its diving depth, I could see you getting it snagged or broken on a rock before I could see it snapping off because of line size. However, those DT's are thick, so i dont see really any problems.

I use 10lb. P-Line CX for all my cranks. I use those snaps that Muddy linked on a few hard-baits that came bare.

[Sam]

I tie on a snap swivel with a Palamor knot.

Makes changing cranks a lot faster and easier.  Just be sure to double check that knot from time to time.

I use 12 or 14 pound Extra Tough Trileen if there is a lot of cover or structure on the bottom.

I usually use 12 pound line when there is little or no structure on the bottom or messy cover.

I tried P-Line and like it; the YoZuri is excellent; Vanish is great.

A lot of guys get all contorted about mono vs fluro but it I usually go with fluro most of the time, anyway.

[JCrzy4Bass]

So Muddy, the crank can go directly onto the snaps?  I like the quick change of lures with them if that is the case, no need to retie knots.

Yea I know a lot of guys that catch on these DTs so I'm just looking for a sure fire way to use em'.  I don't want to switch to 12lb line just because I found 10lb Suffix is ideal for my reel and I really like the way it handles on it and the strength it has.  No need to go heavier, my lures run at perfect depths for the use.  I know it would help with the strength issue but I just wanted alternatives aside from switching line.  But thanks for the idea.

I will pick some of these up tonight if that's the case as I'm hitting the lake in the morning and plan on hitting some deeper water as temps at this lake are only in the high 40's.  They probably won't be staging yet, but still on a winter/deep water bite.  Thank god for depth finders .

If I can't find the snaps I supposse I'll just cast lighter this weekend with them, cast with the wind, and be anal about checking my line and knots.

[GobbleDog]

Also, how difficult is it to pick the weeds off with your hands?

Funny, I asked myself that same question right after I broke it.

Doh!  

[Raul]

So Muddy, the crank can go directly onto the snaps? I like the quick change of lures with them if that is the case, no need to retie knots.

.

It takes you 30 seconds to tie a knot and check your line for nicks, cuts, abrassion and signs of wear. The snap may be ok, the knot may be ok but what about the line above the snap ? that may and will certainly not be ok after a while.

And there you are at the lake, you make a cast and since you think your time is too precious ( 30 sec to 1 minute ) to waste it retie a knot you don 't do it, then your bait hangs up and prack ! the line breaks and you loose your bait or you hook the fish of a lifetime ( did I mention it took away the lure with it ? ) just to have it break the line simply because you were too lazy to check your line and retie as needed.

Snaps are not bad if you are purchasing good quality snaps

Snaps are not bad if you check your line above the snap frequently

But if snaps are an excuse for you being lazy then don 't be surprised when you loose a bait or the bait and the fish.

[Guest muddy]

Yes the cranks go right onto the snaps. I have just changed up all my cranks that came with split rings over to snaps also. I have the same cranks for a while and I am confident it will not hurt them

For guys who use spinning gear, good wy to avoid twist. On the tag end of your line put a good quality barrel swivel ( NOT A SNAP SWIVEL) 8 to 10 inches of leader then a snap, really helps keep out the twist while crankin.

[tyrius.]

Snaps are not bad if you are purchasing good quality snaps

Snaps are not bad if you check your line above the snap frequently

But if snaps are an excuse for you being lazy then don 't be surprised when you loose a bait or the bait and the fish.

Good advice!!  I do not necessarily find that snaps/speed clips save me a lot of time.  I am still retieing regularly.  However, the use of the snap has been shown to allow the crankbait to have more action.   In my opinion, this is the main purpose of using a snap.

[JCrzy4Bass]

Wow dude. Maybe I didn't specify... I do check the knots and line regularly and do not use lures often due to knot strength or quality, what I am saying is that I HAVE HEARD that this happens with these cranks since they are a bit heavier. I am talking more of a weight issue per test weight. So I figure if they are on the snap then there is less pressure directly on the lure instead of just a knot holding it in place. There is actually room for some give and take as far as the pressure put on the lure, no?  Like if I'm going to cast the thing a mile and heave with all I got is the pressure on the lure going to cause it to fly right off my knot? Like when you actually HEAR it snap, if anyone has heard this before and seen it happen they know what I'm talking about.

I then have the snap, then the knot above it to help the issue. I will still check my knots and line. I'm just saying whether or not a snap might help a little if at all.

I don't normally have issues with line twist unless I use a spook on my spinning gear.

So do you remove the ring that is on the crankbait before putting the snap on or do you put the snap through that?

[Guest muddy]

I did that today, and I just realized it was a waste of time, I did it because I was putting a snap onto a spilt ring, now I am just gtoing to put a snap onto a sanp: NOT ONE OF MY BETTER IDEAS!!!!!

[Joel W]

I mostly throw DT 10 & 16s with a dedicated baitcaster setup: Med Med action. My reel is spooled with 30 lb Power Pro and a 3 ft leader. I tend to keep the drag on the loose side.  I use a Palomar knot to attach the crank.

I use to use a snap since I changed crankbaits a lot, and every once in a while the snap would fail, and the crankbait was history.

[Guest muddy]

tHATS WHAT YOU GET FROM PULLING ALL THOSE BODIES UP IN PROSPECT PARK LAKE

[FishTank]

I use 12lb Berkley Fluorocarbon and no snaps.  IMHO, it can change how the lure works.  I have used them in the past but after failing to check my line and losing one of my favorite lures, I will always tie directly to the lure.

If you want to see the difference in how it effects a lure, take a Manns -1 and tie it directly to the lure and then try it with a snap.  This lure runs shallow enough that you should see the difference.  Will it cause you to catch more fish?  >>I have on idea but it will help the lure run as it was intended.