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Posted

Getting ready for another season, and noticed major differences between rod manufactures.

Shimano Crucial Heavy 12-25lb line

Shimano Crucial MH 10-20lb line

Fenwich Techna AV MH 12-25lb line

Fenwich HMG Medium 8-20lb line

Cabelas XML Medium Heavy Pitching 12-30lb line

It's no wonder people have a tough time picking a rod. >:)

  • Super User
Posted

There is no standard for power and action on rods. That is why its best to go to a place to hold and review a rod before buying something new. Once you have a preferred brand you get used to how they are made and buy accordingly. Also why different people like different brands.

I do not see this as a bad thing, just a means to give anglers options to find what they like.

Posted

I should have been more specific, these are some of the rods I own. The MH XML is a pool Q, the Crucial MH is a wimp and a GLX 803 seems to have more backbone but lesser line rating then the Shimano.

Posted

It's all subjective as already stated, but IMO the line rating is the least useful of all the rod markings except maybe for a surf rod. There is a standard beginning to gain acceptance called CCS (Common Cents System). It's still going to a while before manufacturers adopt it, if ever. In the meantime all you can do is handle rods in person and inquire here for other's experience.

  • Super User
Posted

I agree that line rating is the least useful rating. I should also mention that there is nothing wrong with using a line that is mucher heavier than the line rating on the rod If You Set Your Brake Properly. !!

The most important issue with a rod that is to be used for casting is for that rod to load properly for the lure weight you will be using. A properly loading rod will come from the proper power and action. If the rod overpowers the lure, it's like a broomstick (exaggerated, I know). If the lure overpowers the rod it would be like casting a 5/8 lure with a 3 weight fly rod (exaggerated again, of course). A properly loading rod will cast effortlessly using the energy of the loaded rod to propel the lure, like a properly lined fly rod.

The trick is to get this outfit balanced properly in the store. (If they have a casting tank, or will allow you to cast in the parking lot, you can take a lure and reel to the store with you and try it out-that's the best!) Since this is rare, and I enjoy building rods, is why I build my own with blanks from companies that I understand. I think the lure weight recommendations are fairly accurate for zeroing in on a rod. Most choose an action that is too fast for proper casting/loading. IMHO. The right rod for casting will be much different than the right rod for jigging. In both, the weight of the lure is very important, because even in most jigging, you do have to cast the jig out. But you can compromise a bit to get the right action for jigging.

Posted

I like when they give me a weight rating. For example: 1/4 oz to 1/2 oz. That gives me a better idea of what techniques it would be good for as you are right a MH may be a H by a different brand. But if the rod is slated for 1-2 oz and it says MH, you know that's one stiff MH!

Posted

Consistency between rod manufacturers is a rarity.  Even the same rod model from one year to the next can be hugely different (Kistler has this problem).

Manufacturers use different production techniques, graphite and action measurement which is why you get a 7 MH that is ultra stiff and another 7MH that is a wet noodle.

Your best option is to pick one manufacturer and stick with them if you like the quality and consistency of their product.

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