Help me choose my next rod?

[Scorcher214]

I got one 6'6MH(Bionic blade) spinning with a daiwa regal. A 7'MH(BPS graphite series) with a Daiwa Procaster. And i just got a a 7.3:1 Okuma Citrix. I would say im a good basser, but matching rod and reels to certain situations is my weakness. I was thinking of buying the E21 Wild Carrot stick, in 7'M. What situations would I use that for? I also have an extra 7'M(BPS Graphite series) rod that i used to have with my procaster. Should I swithc the MH for the M and buy a 7'MH Carrot stick?

[central.PA.bass]

For that price, a Powell Max 703c would be a better choice. 

[MMan16]

It will definately help to know what type of fishing you want to do with the next rod. Most people like high speed reels like that for flipping. I use my Stx which is a 7.1:1 gear ratio for flipping and throwing frogs. I have it paired with a 766 dobyns champion flipping stick and absolutely love it. If you have 2 MH rods already I would think about getting a M or H something different.

[Scorcher214]

Well, i used my procaster(6:1) w/ 7'MH for everything. Now that i will be adding several more rods to my collection, i want to add combos that are more specialized. I was thinking it would be for spinnerbaits or lip-less cranks. So perhaps 7'M?

@ central.PA.bass

I couldn't find a powell rod that cost $100, that is my price area for a rod, give or take  about $10.

[bassfinder]

you should check the shimano compre and the new gary loomis tfo both are about $100.00 and have lifetime warrenty.

[WanderLust]

Spend an extra $40 and get the Powell Max 683C... Mine just came in, its awesome.

I bought it as a backup of my Loomis GLX.

[deep]

Well, i used my procaster(6:1) w/ 7'MH for everything. Now that i will be adding several more rods to my collection, i want to add combos that are more specialized. I was thinking it would be for spinnerbaits or lip-less cranks. So perhaps 7'M?

@ central.PA.bass

I couldn't find a powell rod that cost $100, that is my price area for a rod, give or take about $10.

Why not a 7'6" or even a 7'10"? For techniques that don't require a tip-down presentation (jerkbaits/ topwaters etc), I'm leaning towards longer and longer rods for better casting distance and moving more line during hooksets.

Compres are good value for the money btw. The quantum-KVD composite rods are good too, but they were a bit too heavy for my liking (disclaimer: I don't own a KVD sig quantum rod).

[Fish Chris]

My best advice on buying a rod is, even if you don't buy it locally, you should go to a local tackle place, even traveling a little ways if neccessary, and check out a bunch of different rod / reel combos, until you find one that just feels right in your hand. Personally, I'd tie a lure on of the typical weight I plan on using it with too.

I'm actually not too hard to please with any medium light, to medium action, 7ft spinning rod.

My problem is, trying to find 7 1/2ft to 8ft, 1 piece, heavy action spinning rods that can handle 5 ounce swimbaits ......or 6 to 6 1/2ft, 1 piece, micro lights...... and finding either of these rods in something that isn't considered "upper range" (read: high priced).

Fish

[BASSclary]

I have a SHIMANO Crucial 7' M/XF rod that is perfect for light and weightless t-rigs, as well as finesse jigs.

If the taper is similar on the Compre, (Im assuming it is) I would look at the Compre rods. However I believe they only offer a 6'6" M/XF or a 7' MH/XF.

[dman]

You mentioned spinnerbaits so for $100 you can get the Mojo bass spinnerbait rod, i love this rod for throwing spinnerbaits and buzzbaits,  it launches them.  I've used it to throw lipless cranks as well and it performs great...plus they have a deal now where you can get a mojobass shirt and hat with purchase.........of course, its great advise to go try out rods first as mentioned,  but if you cant........now, if you need a jig or worm rod i'd look at something more sensitive than mojobass.  Maybe Veritas,  also $100

[Fish Chris]

now, if you need a jig or worm rod i'd look at something more sensitive than mojobass.

I don't believe Scorcher ever said if he was using braid, or mono ? If braid, he doesn't need anything more sensitive, if mono, then sensitivity just went right out the window anyway.

The sensitivity of a rod is about 5% or maybe less, of the rod / line combo. The sensitivity of the line is about 95% or a little more.

And this is not just my personal opinion. This is the  scientific fact of the matter.

Fish

[Bass_Fanatic]

now, if you need a jig or worm rod i'd look at something more sensitive than mojobass.

I don't believe Scorcher ever said if he was using braid, or mono ? If braid, he doesn't need anything more sensitive, if mono, then sensitivity just went right out the window anyway.

The sensitivity of a rod is about 5% or maybe less, of the rod / line combo. The sensitivity of the line is about 95% or a little more.

And this is not just my personal opinion. This is the scientific fact of the matter.

Fish

I used to use a BPS Crankin stick to flip with until last year I broke down and bought a Powell 704C.  Same line, same weight, same bait, except now I can feel the claws move on my rage craws.  The difference between the two rods was unreal.  Your 5% rod sensitivity claim is a matter of OPINION, not fact. 

[WanderLust]

Come on now...

Line choice makes up 95% of a given combo's sensitivity??  :-?

I respectfully disagree.

[northern basser]

The XML line at cabelas is on sale for $99.  I have 2 spinning and 2 casting XML's and they are great rods.  You can even get a balance system for an extra $15,  but it isn't necessary.  I've owned many different rods that cost much more than the XML and are no better.

[AbuGarcia-4-Life]

If your not gonna buy a Spinning rod for lighter baits I would suggest having a Heavy rod for big jigs,carolina rigs, light flipping  etc and a MH for Spinnerbaits and a Medium mayber for crankbaits and lighter lures.