Do you always stay within the suggested lure weight range of a rod??

[The Rooster]

If a rod says 3/8 - 1 oz., do you pick baits that fall in that category only, or would you consider using a 1/4 oz. bait with it?? How about exceeding the range, by maybe 1/2 oz. over the range, as in 1 1/2 oz.??

One reason I ask is because the suggested range on a crankbait rod I want is 3/8 - 1, it's a Shimano Compre medium heavy rod. I would be sold on it if I though it would do a decent job of casting 1/4 oz. baits also. But I think that a rod's range has to do with how well it will load and cast light baits as well as not to exceed its tip breaking point by casting heavier baits. If it was rated at 3/8 as the light end, then 1/4's aren't going to go very far I would think?? Could adding a higher quality reel that's capable of casting light baits help this, such as a Curado E5, cause that's the reel I was thinking of pairing with it??

By the way, I am aware they make a crank rod for 1/4 - 3/4 range, but I've handled it and it's too limber for my liking, and some of the crankbaits I want to use are up in the 7/8 range. 

[BASSclary]

Throwing baits 1/8 ounce +/- of your rods rating certainly will be fine. The distance will be miniscule at best.

1/4 ounce would be the most +/- I would go, but you will see the casting distance drop. Anything over 1/4 ounce is a no-no IMO.

[Big Tom]

I think you will be fine. I have a medium heavy cranking rod that is rated for .5 - 1.5 oz baits and it slings lures much lighter (~1/4 oz.) than its minimum suggested rating pretty decently (and thats with a Quantum Energy which does not excel with the light stuff).  I think cranking rods are a little more forgiving on the low end of the weight spectrum because of how the tips are designed.

I rarely go over a rods maximum weight rating though.  Just to be safe.

[K_Mac]

I think it depends on the rod. I have a 7' MHF rod rated at 3/8-1oz. It will easily handle 1 1/2 oz baits, but 1/4 not so much. I have a 7' MXF rated1/4-5/8 oz with a soft tip that loads quickly. With light line it will work fine with less than 1/4. I would not go over 5/8 with it though. Good luck.

[Sam]

Yes.

Plus the line test, too.

The specs are there for a reason so if you want to get the maximum performance from your rod balance the reel, rod and bait. 

[Grey Wolf]

Yes.

Plus the line test, too.

The specs are there for a reason so if you want to get the maximum performance from your rod balance the reel, rod and bait.

X2.

[RandySBreth]

I think you'll find that much like spinnerbaits, if you want to throw big deep diving cranks and lighter shallow ones, you'll need a couple of different set-ups.

The tackle monkey wins again. ;D

[SirSnookalot]

Many times I don't.  The times I don't apply to other types of fish, not bass.  That said I've never encountered a problem tossing a 1-2 oz lure on rod rated at max 1 oz., actually been doing more of it as I am wanting to use lighter rods for bigger fish.

[northern basser]

I think you'll find that much like spinnerbaits, if you want to throw big deep diving cranks and lighter shallow ones, you'll need a couple of different set-ups.

The tackle monkey wins again. ;D

It always does   

[deaknh03]

its only there for maximum performance

[grimlin]

I do....no matter what.

I seem to cast like crap when i go under the lure rating. Most of my rods are 3/8oz-1oz like yours,last year i brought one rod that does much better in the 1/4oz-5/8oz department.

If your tossing lures over the weight limit,if you break that rod you got nobody but yourself to blame.

Bait monkey loves these rating....you'll be hearing him soon now.

[Shane J]

I'll go under a bit, but never over. By the way, I have the same action Compre as you speak of, and it handles 1/4 oz baits just fine.

[Wayne P.]

I don't and also don't stay within the line strength range either.

My choice is based on where I fish and how.

[Jaheff]

Just this Sunday I saw in add in the paper for Okuma Inshore rods on sale at a local sporting goods store (reg 139.95 for 39.95). The reason why they were on sale was because they built the rods with the wrong rod number and line - lure rating. I picked up two, and was able to cross them over on their web site to the correct ratings of that rod.

I do have rods that are labeled wrong in my opinion. An older quantum rod that is labeled MH,but compared to other MH, the blank is really a heavy. Another is a Shimano rod that is way over powered, but is labeled 1\2- 1 1\2  10-25 line. This rod can handle 2 ounces easily.

So my answer is No, I don't stay within the suggested weight ratings all the time.

[Senkoman12]

I think you'll find that much like spinnerbaits, if you want to throw big deep diving cranks and lighter shallow ones, you'll need a couple of different set-ups.

The tackle monkey wins again. ;D

It always does

i see when the evil monkey left chris' closet he went to your tackle box

[J Francho]

I'll have to admit, I don't generally even look at those ratings.  I use the rod, and through time fishing with it, a range of baits turn out to work better than others.  I'd have to look to see if they align with ratings, but I'm sure I'm not overtaxing the gear.

[Raul]

Yes.

Plus the line test, too.

The specs are there for a reason so if you want to get the maximum performance from your rod balance the reel, rod and bait.

My same thoughts.

[steezy]

I might go a lttle over but not much.

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

If it was rated at 3/8 as the light end, then 1/4's aren't going to go very far I would think?? Could adding a higher quality reel that's capable of casting light baits help this, such as a Curado E5, cause that's the reel I was thinking of pairing with it??

If your budget allows guess that reel is fine. Ill just put out there that I have a 7 year old $70 Pinnacle baitcaster that I still use and use 1/8th oz jigs with it just fine. So basically saying that a $150plus reel isnt necessary if the funds arent there.

[basscrusher]

Yes.

Plus the line test, too.

The specs are there for a reason so if you want to get the maximum performance from your rod balance the reel, rod and bait.

I used to buy into this notion, but not anymore. Those ratings are more to give the shopper an idea of what sort of rod they're buying. We've all handled rods that could throw lures far exceeding the rod's suggested limits.

As for the line ratings...if these were absolutes, then why does Shimano post two COMPLETELY DIFFERENT line ratings on their website for the Cumaras (and other series) based on using mono and braid? For example, my MH Cumara is rated 12-20 lb if using mono, but 20-50 lb if using braid. Think about that for a second. Obviously, IF Shimano is being sincere with their info, then the rod isn't built in such a way that too strong a line will break the rod. either my rod maxes out at 20 lb line or it doesn't, regardless of braid/mono. My guess is that the line diameter and the guide size affect optimal casting performance, and that's where the crux of the rating truly lies.

[The Rooster]

Yes.

Plus the line test, too.

The specs are there for a reason so if you want to get the maximum performance from your rod balance the reel, rod and bait.

I used to buy into this notion, but not anymore. Those ratings are more to give the shopper an idea of what sort of rod they're buying. We've all handled rods that could throw lures far exceeding the rod's suggested limits.

As for the line ratings...if these were absolutes, then why does Shimano post two COMPLETELY DIFFERENT line ratings on their website for the Cumaras (and other series) based on using mono and braid? For example, my MH Cumara is rated 12-20 lb if using mono, but 20-50 lb if using braid. Think about that for a second. Obviously, IF Shimano is being sincere with their info, then the rod isn't built in such a way that too strong a line will break the rod. either my rod maxes out at 20 lb line or it doesn't, regardless of braid/mono. My guess is that the line diameter and the guide size affect optimal casting performance, and that's where the crux of the rating truly lies.

I've had that same thought for that very same reason.  I'm fairly certain that the line size compared to guides is responsible for the ratings so you get the best cast.  And that's probably also got something to do with the lure weight range too. 

[Muad Dib]

what i want to know to is if when they mean 3/8oz to 1 oz. does that mean total lure weight. cause as most of us know when a lure says its a 1/2 oz means thats the just the weight they use on the head not the total. for example a 1/2 oz jig. you have to total the skirt, trailer and so forth. same thing for a spinner bait. my 3/8 oz terminator weighs with everything on it more like a 3/4 oz spinnerbait. go figure.

[J Francho]

You got to bust out those triple beam scales and get some exact mass!

They're mostly a suggested range.  You should be able to tell when your outside the real range of the rod with just a few casts.

[The Rooster]

T-rage

I did some weight tests some time back on spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, and jigs.  Also plastics and crankbaits too.

What I found out was only the crankbaits and various other hardbaits with treble hooks actually weigh what they say they do, and without exception ALL spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, and jigs that I tested weigh more than their rated weight.  Most bladed baits were nearly double what they were rated at, and almost all jigs were at least 1/8 oz. heavier than they were rated as well.  I keep this in mind when rigging up too.  Say a 3/8 spinnerbait with a 4 inch grub for a trailer, I'll have nearly a full ounce on once I'm finished with it.