Changing rod action

[GAJ]

This months Bassmaster has a how-to tip on changing the action of a rod by using duct tape between guides. Anyone ever try this? Also, it talks about changing "action" from M to MH, but that sounds like "power" not "action". (i.e. Fast, XF, Mod vs. H, MH, M, ML). Sounds like confusion in terms.

[Sam]

GAJ, do what the article says and let us know what happens and how many rods you break in the process.  ;D   ;D   ;D

[Boogey Man]

I read that too. I've got an old Bass Pro Bionic Blade that I may try it on just to see.

[Grey Wolf]

Duct tape ??????????????? I don't care what they say but that is funny.

[KYntucky Warmouth]

I saw that too and really have no idea how that would work, just doesn't make sense to me.  They didnt really explain what it did, but just how to do it.

[Big Tom]

It actually sounds pretty stupid.  I don't know why they would put something like that in their magazine.

[Boogey Man]

It was a tip from a "developer and engineer" at

All Pro rods. It says to wrap a 2 X 1/4 inch strip between guides #'s 3,4,5 and 6, with the tip guide being #0. He says that's one of the tricks they use to stiffen a rod when they're still designing it. That's the cool thing about fishing, always experimenting and tinkering.

[bigfruits]

ive noticed that if you cut your rod in half, the tip will be alot stiffer.

[scbassin]

From a post by R/W

Much of the confusion has to do with terminology. Let's define "power" and "action" first.

Power

The power of a rod is simply a rating, which describes the overall stiffness of the blank. Power categories include Ultra-Light (UL), Light(L), Medium-Light(ML), Medium(M), Medium-Heavy(MH) , Heavy(H) and Extra Heavy(XH)

Action

The action of a rod is a rating, which describes the amount of curvature that occurs in the blank due to loading with weight. The faster the action, the further towards the tip the rod bends. The slower the action, the further towards the middle of the rod and so on.

Action categories include:

Extra-Fast:  Bend very near the top of the blank.

Fast: Bend in the upper 25-30%.

Moderate: Bend near the middle.

Slow: Parabolic curvature throughout the entire length of the rod.

Action is important because it determines, in part, how much control you have over the fish. The faster the action, the more pressure you can put on the fish (and vice-versa). Many crankbait anglers want more moderate action so that the fish cannot shake free as easily. Another important consideration of rod action is casting distance. The slower the action the better the rod will cast. Rods that have a slower action have a wider curve on their parabolic bend, and therefore can store more potential energy when casting. This is called "rod loading." In effect, the more the rod loads, the more of the rod you use to cast. Fast action rods bend closer to the tip, using less of the rod to cast.

Other rod characteristics to note are recovery, sensitivity and brittleness. Recovery is a measure of the time it takes the rod to recover after a cast. When you impart energy to a rod upon casting, it vibrates. You can see the tip shaking. That shaking bats the line as it leaves the top guide, causing friction. That friction reduces casting distance. Faster action rods tend to recover faster, but do not load up as well. More moderate action rods tend to recover poorly, but load up better. If you can find a moderate action rod with fast recovery, it will outcast everything else if the rest of the playing field is equal.

Sensitivity is obviously important. You want a rod to be able to transmit the feelings you experience when your lure moves underwater, where you can't see it. Higher modulus graphite is more sensitive, although it may be a case of diminishing returns as you get higher and higher up the modulus rating scale.

Brittleness is how easily the rod will break. Most high end rods are brittle, as brittleness and sensitivity tend to be indirectly proportional. That's where a lifetime warranty comes into play!

So, all things are not created equal and if you think a $50 rod is just as good as a $300 rod, you're wrong! Buy the best equipment you can afford and focus on quality, not quantity.

For an all around rod I recommend 6 1/2' or 7' Medium Power/ Fast Action. More than 90% of all the bass fishing you will ever do can be done with this rod. Rod power is more about the weight of the lures you use than the fish you might catch. A Medium Power rod will handle most of the lures you will fish and the fight will be much more fun.

Now for the details. I'll list the Power and Action and a specific rod:

If I were to fish one rod only: 7" M/F spinning.  G.Loomis GLX PR844S

If I can fish two, my other rod would be: 7' H/F baitcasting.  G.Loomis GLX MBR844C

For technique specific applications:

Light fishing: 6 1/2' ML/F spinning

Soft plastics: 7' M/F spinning

Crankbaits, jerkbaits and topwater: 7' M or MH/M baitcasting

Spinnerbaits and buzzbaits: 7' M or MH/F  baitcasting

Jigs, C-rigs and heavy and/or deep running lures: 7' H/F baitcasting

And to break it down just a little further, I fish a Heavy Power/ Slow Action glass rod for big, treble hook lures.

From me

The tape is changing the point where the blank is flexing under load therefore changing the action. Remember that you have rod that the guides were placed on the blank according design so the blank will flex properly. Changing that could mean a change in guide location. Be Careful 

[basscrusher]

I love semantic arguments.