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Posted

how does one tell a difference between junk and quality in the store? id love to know because i have rods i hate that draw raves from posters and i have rods i like that draw boos.

ignoring the price and the name on the rod, what should i do to find a good rod while in the store?

I determine sensitivity in the store by very lightly scraping the tip guide on the stores carpet or on a knot on the wooden floor. I have yet to find a more accurate way to judge a rods sensitivity without actually fishing with it. This might even be the best way to judge slight differences in sensitivity because it's easy to compare a bunch of rods back to back very quickly. I prefer this over putting it on someone's throat and having them hum or talk, or on a cellphone set to vibrate and placed on the floor, which some people do.

While doing this, you should also flex the upper 1/3 of the rod firmly against the floor and quickly lift it and hold it still, watching how fast the tip recovers and stops moving. A good rod will deaden almost immediately. If the rod is whippy and the tip doesn't recover very quickly, put it back on the shelf because it's junk. Imagine your rod tip badly jiggling like an Ugly Stick right after releasing the cast. The line won't flow from that tip very well, and casting distance and accuracy will suffer.

Along with judging the weight and balance of the rod with the reel on, these two quick little tests are the best way to compare rod quality in the store.

Check this out. This thread addresses that question.

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1271957550

  • Super User
Posted

i checked out the skeet rods at my local tackle store today , i don't care for the feel of them , like everybody says , they feel whippy . also the handles are very short on them .

Posted

I bought the worm/spinnerbait model for the express purpose of using it for crankbaits, specifically lipless cranks and some deeper diving models.  In that, it works very nicely, thanks.  I wouldn't own the crankbait model cuz it feels like a wet noodle, but for my intended purpose, the one I bought is fine.

  • Super User
Posted
I bought the worm/spinnerbait model for the express purpose of using it for crankbaits, specifically lipless cranks and some deeper diving models. In that, it works very nicely, thanks. I wouldn't own the crankbait model cuz it feels like a wet noodle, but for my intended purpose, the one I bought is fine.

thats what i did. the rod tosses 1/4 oz baits very well and i assume would handle #5 shad raps if i wanted it too.

the real problem i see with these rods are the rod rating doesnt meet reality. does that make them junk? couldnt tell you.

Posted
I bought the worm/spinnerbait model for the express purpose of using it for crankbaits, specifically lipless cranks and some deeper diving models. In that, it works very nicely, thanks. I wouldn't own the crankbait model cuz it feels like a wet noodle, but for my intended purpose, the one I bought is fine.

thats what i did. the rod tosses 1/4 oz baits very well and i assume would handle #5 shad raps if i wanted it too.

the real problem i see with these rods are the rod rating doesnt meet reality. does that make them junk? couldnt tell you.

That's one reason that I refuse to buy a rod sight unseen.....there's no set standard for rod ratings.  Even if the maker specifically labels them for a certain type of fishing, i.e. dropshotting, worm, etc., the action may not be what I want.  The store where I bought mine had most of the Tessera models in stock so I could see what I was getting.

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