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Posted

All other factors being equal, should a lighter spool help manage backlash?

My hypothesis is that the lighter spool has less mass and therefore less momentum than a heavy spool. Thus, as the bait slows down towards the end of the cast, the lighter spool will have less momentum to cause the spool to feed out extra line.

Posted

I think your theory would apply to backlash resulting from spool inertia, but backlash can happen at the beginning or end of a cast. A lighter spool will start up quicker so may be a little more prone to backlash if the spool turns faster than the bait pulls off line. This is where your centrifugal brake comes into play.

Posted
I think your theory would apply to backlash resulting from spool inertia, but backlash can happen at the beginning or end of a cast. A lighter spool will start up quicker so may be a little more prone to backlash if the spool turns faster than the bait pulls off line. This is where your centrifugal brake comes into play.

I'm assuming the backlash that occur at the beginning of the cast are the ones that I discover deep in the spool.  Those are the ones that give me the most trouble... ;)  Thanks

  • Super User
Posted

How would a backlash occurring at the BEGINNING of a cast result in snarls deep in the spool? Think about it.  Then work on training your thumb.  No magic bullet here.

  • Super User
Posted
How would a backlash occurring at the BEGINNING of a cast result in snarls deep in the spool? Think about it. Then work on training your thumb. No magic bullet here.

that's easy.a reel set totaly wrong and an uneducated thumb will do it.if you are shore fishing a backlash from snagging a tree without knowing it or just not realizing you are backlashing and not doing anything about it.beginners can make some terrible backlashes that you and i just shake our heads at.

Posted
How would a backlash occurring at the BEGINNING of a cast result in snarls deep in the spool? Think about it. Then work on training your thumb. No magic bullet here.

There is no substitute for an educated thumb.

I think the lighter spools will work better with lighter baits because it takes less force to get them going. And it seems to me that an average weight bait casts farther with less effort. That is just opinion I haven't tried to quantify. In any case your thumb is needed when bait casting. ;)

Posted

I see your point, but after what I thought were great casts without tangles on the top (while bait is still out), I can still find overruns deep in the spool. I had been thinking that if once some tension is eased of the line, the spool could spin faster than the mass of line that is still wrapped around the spool. Maybe I still need to work on finishing my casts :-[:)

Even though I like to analyze things now, I couldn't stand my science & math classes...

I'm working on my thumb, but my life situation allows me only about 2-3 hours per week, about 20 weeks a year at the water (or any where that I could practice casting). So, I'm trying to get a better understanding so that I can educate my thumb in the most efficient manner :)

I can make time for Bassresource, because I usually sure the web in between sets during my morning workout. If I spent less time on BR and more effort on my sets, I'd probably be both lean & buff, instead of being..... ;):o

Posted
How would a backlash occurring at the BEGINNING of a cast result in snarls deep in the spool? Think about it. Then work on training your thumb. No magic bullet here.

that's easy.a reel set totaly wrong and an uneducated thumb will do it.if you are shore fishing a backlash from snagging a tree without knowing it or just not realizing you are backlashing and not doing anything about it.beginners can make some terrible backlashes that you and i just shake our heads at.

I hope I'm getting a bit beyond that point, but... ;)  I tend to make the most mistakes when I get over confident. 

BTW, The reason I'm questioning the spool weight is because I am most consistent with my Chronarch Mg vs. my other reels with centrifugal brakes

  • Super User
Posted

Being over confident or trying to get just little more distance has caused many a backlash. I don't know what your other reels are, but the mg50 casts like a dream. Most reels will take a little more energy to cast and that is where your trouble starts I think. Don't be afraid to set an extra brake or two on those other reels until you get comfortable with them. Having the tension control set properly is another key. As everyone else has said an educated thumb final part of the equation and it just takes practice. Good luck.

One other thing: :;) Line is a major factor as well. Stiffer lines require more attention than limp ones.  :o

Posted

The problem I had with backlash was from trying to cast farther by force. Now, I just turn the spool tension  knob all the way back and control the distance with my thumb. Casting like your trying to crack a whip will backlash instantly.

None of my reels use the tension knob anymore and its even easier to switch between reels since I dont rely on them to control the cast.

  • Super User
Posted
How would a backlash occurring at the BEGINNING of a cast result in snarls deep in the spool? Think about it. Then work on training your thumb. No magic bullet here.

that's easy.a reel set totaly wrong and an uneducated thumb will do it.if you are shore fishing a backlash from snagging a tree without knowing it or just not realizing you are backlashing and not doing anything about it.beginners can make some terrible backlashes that you and i just shake our heads at.

if you that bad at it, then pull off 50 yards or so of line, tape the spool, and reel up over the tape.  No more terminal backlashes.  PRACTICE!!!

;)

Posted

I get what your saying but I don't think it matters.  True you have more mass to essentially lead the front end of the spinning spool downward but that same amount of mass is also holding it back on the rear end.  Think about it in terms of the light spool, you have less mass to help counter / slow the spool down.

Basically its a circle so any weight differences are cancelled or offset by an identical weight difference on the other side of the spool.  Thats my theory and I'm sticking to it  ;)

Posted

There isn't a correct answer to your question.  I've seen the same question asked about casting distance.  Keep in mind that inertia would be effected by the mass of the spool AND the shape of the spool.  The physics answer is that you could calculate an ideal spool inertia for a particular set of circumstances (rod, lure weight, casting technique, wind resistance, etc).

The basic real world answer is that a lighter spool will work better for lighter baits, or baits that tend to slow down quickly when cast.  A heavier spool will work a little better with bigger, heavier baits.  But in the end, the real difference maker is practice & technique.

  • Super User
Posted

Here's my take.  While a heavier spool has more static inertia, once spinning it has more rotational inertia.

A light spool will accelerate more quickly, and will also achieve higher rpms.  However, it is also easier for the braking system to slow down.

Nothing beats an educated thumb.  Problem is, not all thumbs are created equal.  Every time a lure, or bait is changed, the reel should be adjusted.  Even baits of the same weight cast differently due to aerodynamic considerations.

What I have noticed is that I can cast without problems, not using my thumb, until, I try to put more oomph into the cast to get the bait further out. 

To do that, without backlash/over run, I need to use my thumb, or set the reel with a bit more braking.

Posted

Thanks all for the physics refresher and the inspiration to continue my "education" ;)

Leon

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