Siebert Outdoors Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 To fullfill RW request here is my most current jig fishing version. The bass jig is one of my go to baits. I throw a finesse jig approx 90% of the time. I wrote this article awhile back but it might help some with their jig fishing. Here is how I fish jigs. Set up #1 Rod 854 GLX BCR Reel chronarch sf line 15lb fluro cabelas Set up #2 Rod 853 BCR glx Reel chronarch sf 10-12lb flouro cabelas/triple fish Setup #3 Rod BCR855 Reel Chronarch 100 Line 30lb braid Jigs, I make all of mine. Finesse(eakins round head style) 5/16,3/8,7/16. Poison Jig head (like pj's widegap jig). Sizes 1/8,1/4,3/8,1/2,3/4,1oz The Jig, There are several things I look for in a Jig. Not all of them are created equal. Weedguard I like the limper fibers because it bends easier and I feel it gives me a higher hook up percentage. Does hang up more but in the long run its worth it. Hook A good quality hook Gamakatsu, needlepoint, owner to name a few Skirt quality just because the skirt looks good some brands dont have alot of strands most production skirts are 40-44 strands I like about 55-65. Gives a fuller skirt and better presentation. Trailers I use mostly Joes trailers then some eakens craws, zoom lil critters, and make some of my own now. Techniques I very rarely cast a jig. When casting these types focus totally on the target intended. Pitch, Holding the lure in one hand and the rod in the other lower the rod tip and as you are raising the rod tip let go of the lure. This will cause a pendelum action and the lure will go out, faster the coordination between the two the farther the cast. After practice you can pitch with very minimum splash and effort. Under hand roll cast Pretty much self explanatory. Basically its holding the rod almost straight out and making a 1/2-3/4 circle with the lure and at the precise second when the lure starts to come back up from the bottom of the circle you release it and the lure goes. Distance all comes from the whip and angle the lure is released. (Watch out for the Trolling motor) Flippin dont do this much either. This is basically done by holding line in one hand and useing the lure weight and line in your hand to cast by moving the rod slightly. Usually a very dense or muddy water tactic. Presentation I never use the reel to move the jig always use the rod and the length of the rod effects how much the jig will move. Shorter the rod the more tip movement needed to move the jig. I use 3 forms of presentation. Dragging basically drag the jig across the bottom. this doesnt work well in chunk rock because of hangups. Very small hops. Remember go very slow in cold water(less then 50deg). Swimming, cast out and swim the jig back. Finesse Jig Usually setup #2 This is best in cold water or finiky bite. Size varies but my favorites are 5/16-3/8. 2" trailer. I will also trim the excess off the jig for a spider jig look. It takes out alot of the bulk. Keeping it small. Bigger Jigs, Setup #1 or #3 Works better for more agressive fish. The sizes I prefer are 1/2-3/4 I tend to upsize the trailer about mid May to a 3" and go through about September/October. Fishing thick weeds will require a heavier jig to punch through the top. Most of the time I will throw a 3/4 but some times it requires 1oz. Also a minimum of 17lb but after fishing braid for this I would fish braid no leader. A stout rod is also recommended like a flipping stick. Hit the edges, and pockets, or if your jig will punch through try punching through. I always fish outside to the center. Clear water I will throw lighter line and typically a finesse jig due to skittish fish. My favorite colors are browns or greens. Stained water usually a jig 3/8-1/2 is prefered gives a bit more water displacement. Sometimes add rattles colors are browns, greens, blk/blue,black. Work an area more because the fish cant see as well. Muddy water usually throw 3/8-1/2oz and add rattles. colors blk/blue,black Fish the area extremely well, I have fished trees about 10-15 casts before finally pulling out a fish. Depth and wind can effect the weight of jig needed. Typically deeper or with the presence of more wind a heavier jig is needed. Good luck and hope this helps some. Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted December 28, 2006 Super User Posted December 28, 2006 Excellent! Thank you GMAN. Quote
Deuceu72 Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Great informative post Gman! This site is so killer for this kind of stuff! ;D ;D ;D Quote
docav Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 everyone can learn from a post like that. doug Quote
Guest the_muddy_man Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 Hey G man Thanks it is my personal goal to learn how to use jigs this year and this article is great, im printing thjis out! 8-) Quote
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 Excellent info GMAN. I am the other end of the spectrum as far as jig fishing goes. Light jigs, spinning gear and long casts. I'll write a segment on my techniques which will compliment GMAN's input quite nicely. Off to work for now, I'll do somthing with it this weekend. Quote
Fishing Doug Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 GMAN, Excellent stuff. the jig is on my "what to learn in 2007 list"........this is info I need! LBH, looking forward to reading about your techniques as well. Quote
Super User SPEEDBEAD. Posted December 29, 2006 Super User Posted December 29, 2006 Great info. Being new to the jig game, this will be more than helpful Thanks Wayne Quote
RiskKid. Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 Thank you Gman....this will be very helpful to me. I fish a small lake just outside Nashville where jigs are supposed to be best. I just never have used them much......will be trying it more this year though. Quote
The_Natural Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 I'll add how to properly set up your casting reel to pitch, which is something that I rarely see mentioned. First, your magnetic or centrifugal braking system should be completely off. Next, you need to tighten down your spool tension knob to the point where you can disengage your reel, and your jig falls and hits the floor without your spool backlashing at all. A good pitch should hover a foot or two above the water without getting lift before it drops on your target. Lift will cause your bait to splash down and ruin your quiet entry. A good reference point to gauge how much line you should have out to start your pitch is for your bait to be about even with the wrist of your hand that is gripping the rod. If your bait is gaining altitude when your pitch, you need to inch down your bait a little bit before you swing it out. I, like most others, practiced nearly every day after school with a coffee can in my living room to master the technique. A quiet, splashless entry can be the difference in whether your bait sneaks up on a bass or scares it away. Quote
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