INbassMAN Posted November 15, 2009 Posted November 15, 2009 I'm relatively new to bass fishing (about 2 yrs) and new to bass resource. I am very impressed with all of the helpful information and friendly discussions on this forum. I know I will be a regular visitor to here as I have been "hooked" on bass fishing and want to learn as much as I can. So, here goes my first question. What is everyone prefered fishing line? Whats the differnece between mono and flourocarbon. I've seen clear, red and green line. Is one better than another for different water clarities. Quote
Needemp Posted November 15, 2009 Posted November 15, 2009 If you have the money, buy good stuff and check it for knicks all the time. Mono is a more stretchy line, softer and usually thicker in diameter than fluoro. It is easier suseptible to abrasions. Fluoro sinks faster, is more abrasion resistant and after its first initial stretch, it doesn't stretch as much as mono. Fluoro has its place and mono has its. Then there is braid... I love Suffix mono and Seaguar Fluorocarbon. They are the best I have found out of the ones I have tried. Quote
Super User 5bass Posted November 15, 2009 Super User Posted November 15, 2009 [movedhere] General Bass Fishing Forum [move by] five.bass.limit. Quote
Super User KYntucky Warmouth Posted November 15, 2009 Super User Posted November 15, 2009 you always hear about flourocarbon being more abrasion resistant than mono but that's not been my experience at all. When I tried it, it seemed to break all the time when it shouldn't have and felt weaker than other lines of the same rating. I prefer copolymer to everything else and really like P-Line and Yo-Zuri Hybrid. Quote
WoolleyBass Posted November 15, 2009 Posted November 15, 2009 P-Line is what i use and i really like it. Roby Quote
Super User RoLo Posted November 15, 2009 Super User Posted November 15, 2009 SPINNING: Berkley Fireline Braid (polyethylene) CASTING: Sufix Elite Copolymer (nylon + fluorocarbon) In my opinion, line color is of trivial importance (monkey and a dartboard). Roger Quote
The_Natural Posted November 15, 2009 Posted November 15, 2009 I think clear line color is the best and most versatile; It is the hardest for me to see in any water I put it in. As far as which brand of line; I like Pline, which is a high quality Japanese line. The CX premium is a fluorocarbon coated line that is very user friendly. It is extremely thin, and the 12lb would be great on your spinning rig or 15lb on your baitcasting. Quote
fmoore Posted November 15, 2009 Posted November 15, 2009 If you ask 10 different guys what kind of line they like, you'll most likely get 10 different answers. I use Power Pro for all my heavy flipping/pitching needs and Seaguar fluoro for everything else. Fluorocarbon's refractive index is closer to that of water's than mono, thus making it less visible than mono when in the water. Personally I feel red line is a gimmick and I like clear over any other color. Quote
Super User Catt Posted November 15, 2009 Super User Posted November 15, 2009 Heavy cover: Braid Sparse cover: Berkley Big Game My thoughts on line color, I change line color depending on water clarity not because I think the bass can see it but I can see it better which equates to more hook ups. Quote
Super User retiredbosn Posted November 15, 2009 Super User Posted November 15, 2009 This response may end up as a long read, I did a lot of research on fishing line last year. What follows is a condensed versions of what I have learned. First of all lets break down line into a few categories that will enable an easier comparison of the available fishing lines. There are braids, monos, floros, copolymers, and hybrids. These lines are all manufactured for different applications, and in all honesty for most weekend anglers all we need is mono. But lets take each and break down the benefits and drawbacks. I will start with Monofilament line. This is the line most of us grew up with, it is the one we know the most about and have the most experience with. All mono is is a single type of nylon compressed into a thread. What many people do not know about mono is that it has an open cell construction, meaning that the line will absorb water, as it absorbs water the line weakens as much as 30 percent. This is best illustrated by watching you line, rig up a senko on mono cast it out and watch the line, the first few casts the line sinks slowly, with each consecutive cast the line sinks a little faster, the more water it absorbs the faster it sinks. The more it absorbs the more it stretches. Higher grade mono stretches less than cheap mono, but it all absorbs water, this can be offset by using a line conditioner. Another negative to the open cell construction is sensitivity, closed cell construction aids in sensitvity as the vibrations are not as suseptible to be lost to the water column. Next is Copolymer lines, which typically is not a nylon floro blend but rather a blend of two or more different types of nylon. The manufacturers can specialize a nylon line that is more abrasion resistant, less memory, smaller diameter, etc, by manipulating the types of nylon. In the end though you have a line that is the same as mono, it has open celled construction, absorbs water, weakens with use, the wetter it is the more it stretches, and will break down in uv light. Hybrid lines are just that a hybrid of nylon and most of the time floro. IMO these are the lines you want. Floro is basically the same thing as teflon, so it is slick, which is why floro has such bad knot strength. Anyway back to hybrid lines, all hybrid lines are not equal, many manufacturers just coat there basic mono with floro and call it a hybrid. This does nothing to enhance the quality of line other than make it closed cell so it will not absorb water. IMO true hybrids actually intermix the nylon and floro on a molecular basis, such as yo-zuri, the benefits of this are numerous. You get all the benefits of mono and most of the benefits of floro. Examples include, superior knot strength (especially when compared to floro), better abrasion resistance, lower visibility than regular mono (although not the same refractive index of regular floro), does not break down in uv light, better sensitivity, closed cell construction, etc Now for straight floro, the first myth that needs dispelled right away is the floro doesn't stretch. Floro stretches as much as mono, sometimes more according to test conducted by the tackletour guys. The main benefit to floro is increased sensitivity and a refractive index almost the same as water. All that means is that floro almost disappears in the water. The main drawbacks to floro are lots of memory, poor knot strength, poor performance in cold water and cost. If you get a bird's nest in floro and the line kinks any at all, it must be stripped and replaced, this is the biggest issue I have with hybrid lines and floros, and nest that would not affect mono destroys the strength of floro. The memory issue can be controlled by using a line conditioner. The final line is braid, braid is extremely strong for its diameter, it does float however which makes it a poor choice some topwater applications, as many people report an issue with the line fouling in the hooks. Braid is solid and IMO stands out in the water like a sore thumb. Tackletour also did some research on this issue and fish would routinely avoid the braid and swim into floro line, the hypothesis is that the fish could see the braid and avoid it and could not see the floro and hit it. Braid has less stretch than anyother line, is abrasion resistant, but cuts easily on sharp objects like rocks, shell banks, etc, but is superior in wood. Braid is extremely sensitive, unaffected by uv light, and does not absorb water as readily as other lines. So in short after considering all of this what is an angler to do? Many on this forum swear by yo-zuri hybrid line (I'm one of them), it gives you all the benefits of floro and mono at reasonable prices. It is extremely strong for its diameter, 6lb (.01) test average break strength is 11.9, 12lb (.013) test average strength is 20lbs. Is virtually invisible underwater, has closed cell construction, very sensitive, many report memory issues with this line, I treat mine with KVD line conditioner and have no issues. It is a great product and the best part is one line covers all applications. Good luck to ya Quote
Super User Hammer 4 Posted November 15, 2009 Super User Posted November 15, 2009 For a good all around line..YoZuri Hybrid Ultrasoft is hard to beat..but as was said, ask 10 different guys, you get 10 different answers. I found that it's best to pick a few brands and try them, you'll find the one you like.. Quote
Super User Sam Posted November 16, 2009 Super User Posted November 16, 2009 All the lines are acceptable. Look for the smallest diameter in each test strength and you will have to figure out the memory as to which line forgets the fastest. Use Kevin VanDam's Lure and Line Conditioner, Reel Magic or pure silicone sprayed on a washcloth to create a "wet spot" and run your line through this wet spot when spooling your reels. Also, spray the line on the reels every now and then when spooling to soak the line with the material. If the line gets twisted, tie the end to a pole or tree, back off the line while on the rod and reel by walking away, stretch it tight a few times, and then use the "wet spot" method to rewind the line back onto your reel. To simplify your query, which has a very complex answer, here is what Mike Iaconelli says about which lines to use: Mono for treble hook baits. Fluorocarbon and copoly for anything. Super lines and braid for heavy cover and deep water. Lines are a personal choice. What you love is another guy's poison. This winter invest in some DVDs, Bassin' Magazine, join B.A.S.S. and a receive their magazine, and check out he pros' websites plus Bassmaster.com and start learning. Also, Kevin VanDam's two books are excellent and anything by Iaconelli is fantastic. Good luck and please let us know which lines you select and which ones you like and do not like and why after using them next year. Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted November 16, 2009 Super User Posted November 16, 2009 Try a few and you will find a brand you like. My preference is #6 Yo-Zuri Hybrid or Hybrid Ultra Soft for spinning tackle, #12 for baitcasting. Other popular brands are Trilene XL for spinning gear and Trilene XT or Big Game for baitcasters. P-Line is very popular, too. 8-) Quote
INbassMAN Posted November 16, 2009 Author Posted November 16, 2009 Thanks everyone!! This is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. I will experiment with the different lines that you guys recommended. I think you gave me a good starting point. Thanks again. Quote
FordNFishinLover Posted November 16, 2009 Posted November 16, 2009 Love using Yo-zuri lines. Cast great and very strong. If i dont use that than its either Trilene or Braid Quote
jbtcardfan Posted November 16, 2009 Posted November 16, 2009 When my son and I decided we were serious enough about fishing that we wanted to invest in baitcasting combos, we went to a great local tackle shop to ask for advice and suggestions. The guys who worked there were great people who loved to fish. To a man, they told us that, while they didn't agree on much, the one thing they did agree on was which fishing line to use....Triple Fish Camo-Escent. They sold it, they highly recommended it, and the 10 lb. test is what we've used to this day. We still use the cheap, clear stuff on our spincasters (2 Zebco 33's and one 808), but we use only the Triple Fish on our baitcasters. It's made from something called Perlon, which is supposed to be superior to other nylon monfiliments. I don't know for sure if it is or not, but, like I said, we still use it every time out. Quote
drop-shot fool Posted November 17, 2009 Posted November 17, 2009 From my personal experience you can't beat flourocarbon. You get more bites, it is very strong, and it rarely breaks. Last spring i was using 15lb 100% flourocarbon and caught 82 bass in one day, all of them were between2-4lbs. I only retied one time all day. Thats making a statement!!! I like both seagar and trilene 100% flouro. The only difference is seagar has a smaller diameter, which i think makes it a little better in really clear water. I would give the strength factor to trilene though. Quote
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