Need help in understanding how to set up a baitcast reel

[Clark Stewart]

I've been fishing them for years and am pretty proficient at avoiding backlashes but upon studying them the other day I noticed that nearly all of them are dialed around 9 or 10 on the side control. I guess I need help in 1) understanding what dials do what 2) what they're really called 3) how to properly set drag and 4) how to get the most distance without backlashes

I've got a spot in a pond that is across some deeper water to another bank where the bass get 0 fishing pressure. It kills me to hump it in my spot and watch bass kill anything that moves on the surface of the other bank. The bank is impossible to fish on that side because it is incredibly steep and covered with trees and brush. To make it worse there's even exposed brush and cover all over this bank that I can't reach. I need another 20 yards or so!

[Raul]

Palming side cover:

Magnetic break control dial

or

Centrifugal brake escape hatch

Mangetic break control reels are normally adjusted on the oustide via a dial which may or may not have numbers.

Centrifugal break reels are most commonly adjusted by removing the palming side plate to access the brake system weights.

Some manufcturers have a hybrid system ( magnetic + centrifugal ) so in order to adjust the braking sytem you do as you do with either of the previous.

Handle side plate:

Tension adjust or cast control cap ( behind the handle ), applies pressure to the spool 's shaft and tightens or loosens the amount of rotation the spool can spin.

Drag star:

Has absolutely nothing to do with the cast, how far the bait can fly, how easy or how fast the spool spins, the drag only works when the spool is engaged ( when you cast the spool is disengaged ), it 's function is to protect the line transfering the pressure from the line to the drag pads and washers.

How to get the most distance without backlashing ?

The tension and the braking are meant to reduce the speed at which the spool rotates while mainting control of the spool as it spins, exactly the opposite of what you need to achieve more distance, so in order to gain more distance you have to loosen both to allow the spool to rotate more easily, so there is no other way. In order to obtain more distance what you do is to control the spool 's rotation with the thumb.

Obtaining good casting distance with a BC reel is game played with the thumb, balancing the amount of tension and braking plus a lot of practice and practice and more practice, plus a good casting technique.

Of course when you have reached the point where all your braking is almost zero, you have only enough tension to avoid the spool to move sideways, when your thumb has been "educated" and practically don 't backlash be pretty careful because if you happen to backlash ( and it will happen ocasionally ) the backlash will be something you 've never seen ---> phenomenal backlash.  

[Clark Stewart]

Thanks! I've had some of those phenomenal backlashes! Kinda reminds of when that computer sucks that lady in and makes her a robot in Superman 3! They have a tendency to grab the reel handle that way.

Now that I know that where should i start? Dial down to 7 and start working my thumb? Where are you at? And how far are you casting now with a decent sized worm or whatever? In yards not feet! I played football not model airplanes!

[Raul]

Now that I know that where should i start? Dial down to 7 and start working my thumb? Where are you at? And how far are you casting now with a decent sized worm or whatever? In yards not feet! I played football not model airplanes!

Dial down and practice until you can control the rotation

Reduce the tension and practice until you can cotrol the rotation

Dial down again, practice

Reduce the tension, practice

and so on.

How low I am ? magnetic reels 1-2 ( when casting into the wind ), centrifugal 1-2 brakes on ( depends on the reel ), tension, just enough to avoid the spool to move sideways. Takes a lot of time and practice to reach that level.

Unweighted Zoom finesse worm ( which doesn 't weight a lot but has a little bit of wind resistance ) ---> 25-30 yards depending upon the reel, the line and the rod power and length ( 8-12 lbs test )

Weightless 4" grub ( better aerodynamic than the worm ) ---> 30-35 yards depending upon the reel, line and rod power.

Weightless Fat Ika ---> 50-60 yards depending upon reel, line and rod power, if I cast with the Pixy I almost empty the spool with 8 lbs test.

[steezy]

Raul is correct!

Keep adjusting and practicing until you achieve the desired distance but always remember there is a very fine line between a great long cast and an eagles nest.

When I get a new reel, even if I already own the same model, I still step into the backyard and do a few test casts just to make sure Ive got'er dialed in right.

Mag setting = 3 no wind or 5 with wind

Centrifugal brakes = 2 always

Adjust Tension based up tackle

NOTHING beats practice!

[Dan:]

Dude, this is yet another topic that is covered by a "sticky"...Read through them!!! They are useful!

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1151590913