shootermcbob Posted December 21, 2008 Posted December 21, 2008 What makes a rod sensitive? is the graphite,? is it the guides? or is it the line? I tried some Roadwarrior brand fishing line (yo-zuri ultra soft) and I liked it and noticed a difference over the trilene xl I was fishing. I also tried some Bass PRo Shops xps flourocarbon and really could tell a difference with it. I used them on the some different rods and was really wondering if was the type line that mattered more so than the rod. thanks for your input Quote
Pantera61 Posted December 21, 2008 Posted December 21, 2008 Sensitivity has multiple parts, the line, the rod and components and the angler's own sense of touch. Line is an obvious part of the equation, as you have noticed. The rod and components? Definitely. Finally, just like some guys will never throw a 100 mph fast ball, some guys will never feel a bass pick up a bait and some guys will be able to feel a bass glance at it. It is, what it is. Quote
Super User Grey Wolf Posted December 21, 2008 Super User Posted December 21, 2008 All three go into the equation. Quote
bigfruits Posted December 22, 2008 Posted December 22, 2008 I used them on the some different rods and was really wondering if was the type line that mattered more so than the rod. id say a good quality graphite rod matters more than the line. Quote
The Rooster Posted December 22, 2008 Posted December 22, 2008 I have a cheap IM6 $20 graphite rod from Walmart, the Quantum Torsion, and it fishes like a club with original Stren mono on it but when I put some Berkley Transitions fluorocarbon on it then it got a bit better. So the line made a difference there. The rod still sucks though. I have another rod from Dick's that was also cheap at about $25, an IM7 graphite rod and it's a lot better mainly because it's a lot lighter weight. Put some fluorocarbon line on it and it's wonderfully sensitive. But it was even better with mono on it than the Quantum rod was with fluorocarbon, so I'd say the rod made a big difference there just cause it was so much lighter weight. Then the fluorocarbon improved it again. So for me, so far I've learned that line and the rod's weight add to the sensitivity factor. Not sure about line guides but I'd bet they do too since they directly contact the line itself. How else can it transmit sensations and vibrations from the line to the rod to your hand except through the line guides?? All I know is that I won't buy rods with cheap line guides anymore, but that's mainly cause I don't want to have to worry about them breaking or the inserts falling out of them. Quote
Tokyo Tony Posted December 22, 2008 Posted December 22, 2008 IMO, line is the most important factor, only if you're talking the difference between mono/flouro and braid. A $40 rod with Power Pro is more sensitive than a $400 rod with mono. Other than that, what they said 8-) Quote
Super User Jig Man Posted December 22, 2008 Super User Posted December 22, 2008 IMO, line is the most important factor, only if you're talking the difference between mono/flouro and braid. A $40 rod with Power Pro is more sensitive than a $400 rod with mono. Other than that, what they said 8-) X2 Quote
Matt 825 Posted December 22, 2008 Posted December 22, 2008 IMO, line is the most important factor, only if you're talking the difference between mono/flouro and braid. A $40 rod with Power Pro is more sensitive than a $400 rod with mono. Other than that, what they said 8-) X3 Also there are many things that can make a blank more sensitive as the rod is being built: Keeping the overall weight of the rod to a minimum is essential. Using light (titanium) guides, thin epoxy finish, proper guide spacing, and a split grip handle will all increase the sensitivity of the blank. All blanks are not created equal however and there is a gigantic difference in high end blanks made by companies like G Loomis, Rainshadow, CTS, St Croix versus the low end blanks on less expensive rods. Quote
BARON49_Northern NY Posted December 22, 2008 Posted December 22, 2008 The number one thing I have done to help fisherman gain sensitivity for fishing jigs and worms is to get them set up with braided line. You can have a fairly inexpensive rod and with braided line get an amazing amount of feel and sensitivity with braid. The drawback is a cheap reel well be torn apart quickly by a good fish and the drag tightened too much with braided line. Now for a good fisherman with a high quality rod and reel you add braid to this setup and most can actually feel a Bass that is just thinking about hitting a worm. Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted December 23, 2008 Super User Posted December 23, 2008 The number one thing I have done to help fisherman gain sensitivity for fishing jigs and worms is to get them set up with braided line. You can have a fairly inexpensive rod and with braided line get an amazing amount of feel and sensitivity with braid. The drawback is a cheap reel well be torn apart quickly by a good fish and the drag tightened too much with braided line.Now for a good fisherman with a high quality rod and reel you add braid to this setup and most can actually feel a Bass that is just thinking about hitting a worm. Do you direct tie or use a leader? Quote
BARON49_Northern NY Posted December 23, 2008 Posted December 23, 2008 I very rarely use a leader and normally direct tie. One thing I experimented with this past year is using fluoro when fishing around a lot of zebra mussels. To my surprise the 15 to 17 lb fluoro held up longer and better then braid in the 30 to 50 lb range when fishing worms and jigs. I may need to rethink using a leader, but only in this situation with zebra mussels. I fish crytal clear waters here in NY as well as down in Florida and have not seen a lot of diffence in fish catching using braid direct tied. Quote
flatbass Posted December 23, 2008 Posted December 23, 2008 One other thing that adds to the sensitivity is the lure/weight you are using. Brass is more sensitive than lead and tungsten is more sensitive than brass. Quote
tyrius. Posted December 23, 2008 Posted December 23, 2008 One thing I experimented with this past year is using fluoro when fishing around a lot of zebra mussels. To my surprise the 15 to 17 lb fluoro held up longer and better then braid in the 30 to 50 lb range when fishing worms and jigs. Braid and zebra mussels, sharp rocks, etc do NOT mix well. Those cut through braid like a knife through butter. You'll get much better results with a leader when fishing braid around sharp objects. Line rating doesn't have much to do with it as the line gets cut and not snapped. Quote
TruiteBR Posted December 23, 2008 Posted December 23, 2008 I use braid with a fluorocarbon leader. Some people here say I would have a more sensitive setup using fluorocarbon as the main line. What is more sensitive? Quote
Super User dodgeguy Posted December 24, 2008 Super User Posted December 24, 2008 the difference between braid and flouro is double the difference between flouro and mono. Quote
Super User Muddy Posted December 24, 2008 Super User Posted December 24, 2008 I have nothing to add here. I opened the thread because it was titled SENSITIVITY and I saw DODGEGUY answered it, thought that was weird Quote
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