Which mono sinks faster, 8 or 12 lb test??

[The Rooster]

Strictly talking monofilament line, does heavier line sink faster or tend to float more than light line??

Say I'm using 8 pound line on one rod and 12 or 14 on another.  Which will sink faster with the same lure on them??

[Wildbillb]

I would have to think that the larger line would sink slower as it would have more resistance in the water.

[basspro96]

8 pound mono will sink faster. The larger the mono the more it floats.

[The Rooster]

Thaaank you.

That will help me to make a decision of which line to use for what bait now.  Weightless plastics that I want to slowly sink that is.  Sometimes I use a larger hook to get 'em down faster, but usually I use 8 pound test so they sink pretty well anyway.  Was thinking of going to 10 pound though cause my buddy thinks 8 is pretty thin and weak.  Until recently it's never failed me but the last trip out I set the hook on a bass and snapped the line at the knot.  

[Still a Bigbuckifan]

The thiner the mono the faster it sinks.

[Just_Old_Fisherman]

If you are looking to get a faster sink rate, why not try some Fluorocarbon line.  It sinks, does not float.  Cranks go deeper and weightless worms will sink slightly faster.

[islandbass]

Thaaank you.

That will help me to make a decision of which line to use for what bait now. Weightless plastics that I want to slowly sink that is. Sometimes I use a larger hook to get 'em down faster, but usually I use 8 pound test so they sink pretty well anyway. Was thinking of going to 10 pound though cause my buddy thinks 8 is pretty thin and weak. Until recently it's never failed me but the last trip out I set the hook on a bass and snapped the line at the knot.

8# if the cover permits, is more than sufficient.  You mentioned that it did break at the knot and that seems to be a good indicator the knot was the culprit vs. the line.

People in my area target King Salmon on as little as 6# mono.  If 6# mono can handle 30+ King Salmon, 8# mono ought to easily handle any sub 10 lb. bass in little to no cover.

I too think that the smaller diameter mono would also sink faster.

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

Thaaank you.

That will help me to make a decision of which line to use for what bait now.  Weightless plastics that I want to slowly sink that is.  Sometimes I use a larger hook to get 'em down faster, but usually I use 8 pound test so they sink pretty well anyway.  Was thinking of going to 10 pound though cause my buddy thinks 8 is pretty thin and weak.  Until recently it's never failed me but the last trip out I set the hook on a bass and snapped the line at the knot.  

Nothing personal, but it is often the driver, not the car in these situations

Had your drag been set properly, you could have had a banner fight on your hands.  I use 6,8 and 10 exclusively, very clear water, lots of finesse fishing.  Adjust your drag properly and you should NEVER have your line snap.  If anything, you won't be able to "turn" the head of a bigger fish but if you're in a boat, you can always chase 'em down

Also, check your line for chaffing,...often.  Re-tie,...often

ps- I have a 6 lb line class record, 16.6 lb northern, no leader  Light line angling,........It CAN be done, it's just a slightly fairer fight.

pss- you gotta lose a few to learn sometimes, keeps us coming back for more

[The Rooster]

Well to be honest, it might have been the knot. I had caught several bass back to back on the same hook and only had to put on a new worm everytime I caught one, but still used the same hook and knot. The knot might have gotten weak from all those fish. All I know is I set the hook and SNAP! Reeled it in and could tell by the curvature on the end of the line that it had broken at the knot. No frays that I could see there, just snapped clean it looked like. I used an improved clinch knot to tie with. Should have use a palomar maybe??

Also if you don't have the remains of the knot still on the line, then how can you tell if that's indeed where it did snap at?? I "assumed" that was where it snapped cause of how the line looked. Didn't look stretched on the end, or frayed, just clean but slightly curved and reminded me of times when I tie on and pull down to tighten the knot and have it snap like that before even casting. The line looked just like when that happens.

I really love my 8 lb. line and don't really want to go up in size.  Feels like I'll lose some castability and distance that way.  I've used 10 before and can tell a difference in even that, have it on one rod right now and don't care for it that much.  My buddy uses 12 which I think is too stiff for the spinning rods we use.  He likes it though.  But I seen it smoke him while fishing the same lure as me.  Sink rate had to be it.  I fished my 8 lb with a weightless worm, and he fished 12 lb.  I caught probably 8 bass in an hour and he didn't catch any using the same worm as me.  

[Willzx225]

The "hook" on the end of your line is about the only way to know it was your knot that I am aware of. Often when you catch a few fish (especially on your lighter lines) the fishes teeth will rough the knot up just enough where it is maybe 4lb strength instead of 8lb.

On line diameters- I would focus more so on the line diameter than I would on the pound test rating. For instance 10lb Berkley Big Game has a larger diameter than 10lb Berkley Sensation. Also, not saying that it isn't the sink rate, the smaller the diameter line you use, the more action your baits tend to have because thicker line is more restrictive to your lures.

I think a small diameter line, like Berkley Sensation, is the best of both worlds in light cover or open water since you have a higher breaking strength but a smaller diameter.