Guest muddy Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 Hey Fellas: On my Trions I have 4 of the six brakes engaged, does it benifit to start loosing them 2 at a time, or since I am doing fine the way they are should I stay pat?What are the benefits of loosing all the brakes ? Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted February 5, 2008 Super User Posted February 5, 2008 You just have to play with it, but you will notice greater distance with fewer brakes. Someone will have to correct my terminology, but I have two breaking systems on my reels. For me it varies among the models. The outside adjustment on Shimanos affects the smoothness of the retrieve. I have that system almost turned off; on my round reels (CTE200GT) they are completely off. So, my main adjustment for eliminating backlash are the internal pins. On three reels (Calais, Metanium and Chronarch) I only have two brakes on. On my round reels I have four on. 8-) Quote
Super User islandbass Posted February 5, 2008 Super User Posted February 5, 2008 Unless you are dissatisfied with their performance as is, I would leave them because you are already accustomed to how they are currently set. I too have a trion and I use a 3 off and 3 on setting. I've tried 2 on and 4 off, and the casts were a bit farther, but the potential for a overrun increased as did management with the thumb. The extra 3-7' just wasn't worth the increase in management. If you are willing to change settings, try 3 off and on. It will not be much different from 4 on and 2 off and if islandbass can do 3 off and on, anyone can too. ;D Quote
Guest muddy Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 You could not be 1/2 as clumsy as me ;D Quote
Super User dodgeguy Posted February 5, 2008 Super User Posted February 5, 2008 less centrifugal brakes = possible backlash at front of cast.if you want more distance loosen the spool tension and use more thmb as needed.the pfluegers generally need more centrifugal brake than a shimano ime. Quote
Super User Alpster Posted February 5, 2008 Super User Posted February 5, 2008 I think it's most important to be accurate and confident. When I get a new reel, I start with all the brakes on and try to work toward turning them all off. I think brakes are great for reducing backlash but they also hinder the performance of the reel. I probably get more overruns than I should, but I also feel I get all the performance out of the reel. Besides, I have caught a few nice fish while picking out a backlash. Turn them off one at a time and see where it becomes difficult to cast and turn it back on. You are the only one who can find what you are comfortable with. Experiment and have fun! Ronnie Quote
Guest muddy Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 My Distance is fine; I am actually where i want to be. My accuracy, while not up to where it was after years of spiing rods and reels, keeps improving with each trip.dg. I DON'T KNOW ABOUT SHIMANOS, I DO KNOW THERE IS A BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MY TRIONS AND THE BPS ABD CABELAS BRANDED REELS! TAHNKS TO ALL YOU FELLAS Quote
Super User islandbass Posted February 5, 2008 Super User Posted February 5, 2008 the pfluegers generally need more centrifugal brake than a shimano ime. I concur 100% Muddy, If you've seen how clumsy I can be, you'd consider yourself lucky! ;D Quote
sal669 Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 I do not own BC reels with centrifugal breaking system. I own only reels with magnetic break and here is what I do with the ones I have: >I take advantage of a day with some wind (say 5-10mph) and and find the "comfort zone" of that reel(good distance, no nests). I start out with the break at maximum, make a couple casts accross and in the wind (I use something fairly aerodynamic,with some weight to it, like a T-rigged worm). >Than turn the break off one "click", and repeat the procedure.When "professional overruns " apear frequently, I make a note of the setting. That is my staring point. >Depending on conditions (increase in wind speed, lighter lure, different lure profile, etc) I will increase the breakig setting, or decrease it( heavier lure, less windy,etc). I adjust the settings as often as needed during a day of fishing. That's why I chose to stick with reels that have external spool breaking adjustment (mostly Daiwa) Iff you found your "comfort zone", stick with it Hope it helps Quote
Guest muddy Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 The reels I use are centrafugal brakes only. Sorry but that info doesn't help but it will help others with those kind of breaks,you never know who can use what 8-) Quote
Super User grimlin Posted February 5, 2008 Super User Posted February 5, 2008 I usually have 3 on 3 off,i did however try the 2 on 4 off,i started to notice small backlashes every other cast...i turn up the cast control knob as it did help...but it seems like i was getting the same distant as 3 on 3 off.So i went back and left it as 3 on 3 off with fewer backlashes.So i say leave it to what you are comfortable with.I'm completely happy with my casts and don't see a reason to change it. I guess you can take this advice with a grain of salt...it's all my opinion and my experience with the shimano one. Quote
sal669 Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 Muddy, the only reason I posted is that I know you are a "floogr" fan, and the Supreme and the Summit have the UBS breaking system: a combination of centrifugal and magnetic, wich is adjustable. Anyhow, there might be somebody "out there" who could use the info... Quote
Pencil Pusher Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 I have and use both types. Here is what works for me after a number of years of experience. On magnetic brakes, I set it in the middle, on centrifugal with 6 pins, three on. I have some reels with 4 pins, I have all 4 on (I am thinking about trying 2 on and 2 off this year). Then I adjust the cast control so that when I am holding the rod out straight and release the reel spool, the bait falls slowly to the ground and the spool will make 1 or 2 revolutions after the bait hits the ground. I adjust the cast control whenever I change baits if the new bait is different type or weight. I know many people adjust the brakes all the time to get maximum distance, but this works for me. Quote
dave Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 You just have to play with it, but you will notice greater distance with fewer brakes.Someone will have to correct my terminology, but I have two breaking systems on my reels. For me it varies among the models. The outside adjustment on Shimanos affects the smoothness of the retrieve. I have that system almost turned off; on my round reels (CTE200GT) they are completely off. So, my main adjustment for eliminating backlash are the internal pins. On three reels (Calais, Metanium and Chronarch) I only have two brakes on. On my round reels I have four on. 8-) From what I understand by reading the paperwork with my Shimanos, pin brakes on the side opposite the handle, control the spool at the beginning of the cast. The centrifugal brakes control the end of the cast. Check this out www.japantackle.com/Topics/brake_system.htm Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted February 5, 2008 Super User Posted February 5, 2008 No. The ouside adjusment (cast control cap) is on the same side as the handle. The other side opens up. Quote
dave Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 Yes, on the side that you have to open, those pin brakes control the beginning of the cast. Knob under the handle control the end of the cast. Quote
Guest muddy Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 Muddy, the only reason I posted is that I know you are a "floogr" fan, and the Supreme and the Summit have the UBS breaking system: a combination of centrifugal and magnetic, wich is adjustable.Anyhow, there might be somebody "out there" who could use the info... THANKS EVERY LIT BIT OF INFO CAN HELP SOMEONE OUT THERE: SOMEDAY A SUMMIT MIGHT FIND IT"S WAY TO MY HOUES ;D Quote
Guest muddy Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 I have and use both types. Here is what works for me after a number of years of experience. On magnetic brakes, I set it in the middle, on centrifugal with 6 pins, three on. I have some reels with 4 pins, I have all 4 on (I am thinking about trying 2 on and 2 off this year). Then I adjust the cast control so that when I am holding the rod out straight and release the reel spool, the bait falls slowly to the ground and the spool will make 1 or 2 revolutions after the bait hits the ground. I adjust the cast control whenever I change baits if the new bait is different type or weight. I know many people adjust the brakes all the time to get maximum distance, but this works for me. Hey Pencil Pusher: the cast control know is way more important for me than the brakes right now, thanks for the reply Quote
Pencil Pusher Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 Simplified explanation. The cast control knob (on the handle side) applies constant pressure to the spool. The centrifugal brakes apply pressure to the spool at speed; the faster the spool is spinning, the more pressure is applied. There is no pressure at rest. Magnetic brakes apply braking constantly regardless of speed, except for Daiwa Magforce V which is proportional. Quote
Guest muddy Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 SIMPLIFIED: Just mess with the little knurled knob next to the handle and i should keep my hands off dem brakes Quote
Super User Raul Posted February 5, 2008 Super User Posted February 5, 2008 . I DON'T KNOW ABOUT SHIMANOS, I DO KNOW THERE IS A BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MY TRIONS AND THE BPS ABD CABELAS BRANDED REELS! TAHNKS TO ALL YOU FELLAS Dom, brand has absolutely nothing to do, every reel brand is different, you might expect that within a particular brand which uses the same type of braking system on it 's reel there should be a fair ammont of similarities between model A and Model B, in many cases it is true, in many cases it is not. This brings us to the following: Model A behaves similar to model B but between Model A and Model X from the same manufacturer there are significant differences when it comes to how the brakes should be set just because one has spool type A and the other one has spool type B. The only way to know which one is adjusted one way and another one in a different way is by trying out each one with different configurations, that way you can know which one does better with a type of setting than the other. Pretty much what Ronnie explained. Quote
Guest muddy Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 THANK YOU FOR THE REPLYS< the information available here is staggering! Words from my Uncle Tony: Always pay attention to the new guy on the block, he has ideas from not around here 8-) Quote
ILfisherman Posted February 5, 2008 Posted February 5, 2008 Muddy, here's a little tutorial that really improved my casting exponentially. http://reviews.ebay.com/Learning-to-use-a-Baitcasting-or-Casting-reel_W0QQugidZ10000000002050667?ssPageName=BUYGD:CAT:-1:SEARCH:1 Quote
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