Super User David P Posted June 19, 2007 Super User Posted June 19, 2007 Ok guys, I know this has been posted a MILLION times, but I can't find the d**n threads and I'm getting very frustrated.. I need a no memory, very sensitive line, so I'm going to try braid. I just got a stradic 2500 with a BPS Extreme rod so I'm ready to spool this bad boy up. It came with two spools, I was going to put braid with a fluoro or Mono Leader (WHICH ONE SHOULD I USE?) and the second spool I was going to put just 8 or 10lb XL mono. Please let me know if that sounds appropriate and what type of leader should I use? Anyone with that Gary Yamamoto write up about using a leader on braid could you please post it, I had it saved and lost it! Thanks guys. Quote
AlanM85 Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 Tough call, but I'm partial to fluorocarbon. So I'll just give some info... Flouro sinks faster, is imo more sensitive, invisible , abrasion resistant, waterproof, doesn't stretch, and stronger than most mono. However, from reading some of your other posts, you like the wacky rigs, so you might just be better off with the slower falling mono for a leader. Best advice I can give, since all but 2 of my rods are spooled with flouro is to try both, and see which one suits you better. Quote
AlanM85 Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 Oh yeah, and congrats on the new rod and reel! Bet you're itching to use 'em huh? Quote
Super User David P Posted June 19, 2007 Author Super User Posted June 19, 2007 Oh yeah, and congrats on the new rod and reel! Bet you're itching to use 'em huh? Man, if you only knew! I'm going out tomorrow to beat the bank at a local reservoir. I got Pline CX in 10lb and Power Pro in 20lb I'm going to spool one line of just Pline CX 10lb (I wish I had got 8lb just rushed the decision), and the other is going to be 20lb power pro but with a the CX leader. How long of a leader would be good? Quote
Fullwood Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 Oh yeah, and congrats on the new rod and reel! Bet you're itching to use 'em huh? How long of a leader would be good? I was kinda looking for the same info. What's average length for a leader, and with the knot, you don't reel it into the first eye do you? Quote
Super User dodgeguy Posted June 19, 2007 Super User Posted June 19, 2007 Tough call, but I'm partial to fluorocarbon. So I'll just give some info... Flouro sinks faster, is imo more sensitive, invisible , abrasion resistant, waterproof, doesn't stretch, and stronger than most mono. However, from reading some of your other posts, you like the wacky rigs, so you might just be better off with the slower falling mono for a leader. Best advice I can give, since all but 2 of my rods are spooled with flouro is to try both, and see which one suits you better. i am also using flouro but let's get some things straight.it has as much or more stretch than mono.tests have proven it.it is not invisible in all circumstances.it is less visisble than most mono.it is not stronger than a good mono and once stretched to it's max it does not recover where as mono does.tests have proven this also.it is abrasion resistant and much more sensitve than mono due to increased density which is why it sinks. Quote
RiskKid. Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 Alot of folks don't use a leader and tie straight to the braid. Just another option to try and see how it works for you. Quote
AlanM85 Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 Tough call, but I'm partial to fluorocarbon. So I'll just give some info... Flouro sinks faster, is imo more sensitive, invisible , abrasion resistant, waterproof, doesn't stretch, and stronger than most mono. However, from reading some of your other posts, you like the wacky rigs, so you might just be better off with the slower falling mono for a leader. Best advice I can give, since all but 2 of my rods are spooled with flouro is to try both, and see which one suits you better. i am also using flouro but let's get some things straight.it has as much or more stretch than mono.tests have proven it.it is not invisible in all circumstances.it is less visisble than most mono.it is not stronger than a good mono and once stretched to it's max it does not recover where as mono does.tests have proven this also.it is abrasion resistant and much more sensitve than mono due to increased density which is why it sinks. I was just stating my opinion based on use of both types. I would really like to know what mono this is you're comparing to fluorocarbon and what # it was, cause I've never seen these characteristics myself. Mono from my experience is more prone to breaks, stretch stress (although every time I've seen mono stretched to it's 'max' it was followed by a snap), and memory problems. I use P-Line Halo fluoro exclusively, I have not seen any stretch problems, and it seems pretty darn invisible. I'm basing this off of use, nothing more. I don't mean to argue, I'm really just curious what mono and fluoro these tests were done with. Maybe I had been using some really crappy mono. > Quote
surfer Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 I use Floro leader based on what everyone here and the tackle tour test says. Abrasion resistance, More sensitive, and usually less visible. I am not experienced enough to know any better and I don't feel like reinventing the wheel so I use Floro. The fact that it stretches as much as mono and doesn't recoil fully doesn't necessarily weaken it's break strength. It may though. So I don't consider this a huge drawback. Alan, This link will give you lots to read about a test that Tackle Tour did with floro. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1180621267 Broke I think this is the write up you are talking about. It helped me lots and i was already using the backer-braid-leader system for two months. http://www.insideline.net/articles/spooling-spinning.htm Quote
Super User dodgeguy Posted June 19, 2007 Super User Posted June 19, 2007 Tough call, but I'm partial to fluorocarbon. So I'll just give some info... Flouro sinks faster, is imo more sensitive, invisible , abrasion resistant, waterproof, doesn't stretch, and stronger than most mono. However, from reading some of your other posts, you like the wacky rigs, so you might just be better off with the slower falling mono for a leader. Best advice I can give, since all but 2 of my rods are spooled with flouro is to try both, and see which one suits you better. i am also using flouro but let's get some things straight.it has as much or more stretch than mono.tests have proven it.it is not invisible in all circumstances.it is less visisble than most mono.it is not stronger than a good mono and once stretched to it's max it does not recover where as mono does.tests have proven this also.it is abrasion resistant and much more sensitve than mono due to increased density which is why it sinks. I was just stating my opinion based on use of both types. I would really like to know what mono this is you're comparing to fluorocarbon and what # it was, cause I've never seen these characteristics myself. Mono from my experience is more prone to breaks, stretch stress (although every time I've seen mono stretched to it's 'max' it was followed by a snap), and memory problems. I use P-Line Halo fluoro exclusively, I have not seen any stretch problems, and it seems pretty darn invisible. I'm basing this off of use, nothing more. I don't mean to argue, I'm really just curious what mono and fluoro these tests were done with. Maybe I had been using some really crappy mono. > go to tackle tour.com and check out there tests.there are also other tests if you google search.i still prefer the flouro because it's more sensative than mono but it does have it's drawbacks and weaknesses. Quote
AlanM85 Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 Yeah, heh. I've read through the tackle tour test 2 times now. Kinda surprised at the knot strength test mainly, would have thought fluoro would hold up a little better. Thanks for the info dodgeguy and surfer. Maybe I'm just biased, when I switched to fluoro I was hooked on it, just gave me a better feel overall, pitching a jig for the first time with it felt like I was under the water with it. Seemed to improve my presentation greatly being able to feel everything so well. Quote
Stringjam Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 Oh yeah, and congrats on the new rod and reel! Bet you're itching to use 'em huh? How long of a leader would be good? I was kinda looking for the same info. What's average length for a leader, and with the knot, you don't reel it into the first eye do you? I usually go from 6' to 8' or so - - - a well tied Albright or blood knot makes a very tidy little connection, and it will barely be noticed going through the guides. Quote
Super User David P Posted June 19, 2007 Author Super User Posted June 19, 2007 Oh yeah, and congrats on the new rod and reel! Bet you're itching to use 'em huh? How long of a leader would be good? I was kinda looking for the same info. What's average length for a leader, and with the knot, you don't reel it into the first eye do you? I usually go from 6' to 8' or so - - - a well tied Albright or blood knot makes a very tidy little connection, and it will barely be noticed going through the guides. I used a uni to uni knot. I put 2ft but I'll trim it down a bit. Quote
Super User RoLo Posted June 20, 2007 Super User Posted June 20, 2007 It came with two spools, I was going to put braid with a fluoro or Mono Leader (WHICH ONE SHOULD I USE?) Just break down each leader material, then decide what leader-properties are most important to you: Lack of Memory: Nylon Abrasion-Resistance: Fluorocarbon Invisibility: Fluorocarbon I wouldn't get too excited about stretch-resistance or sensitivity. When you're using a 2-foot leader and make a 50-foot cast, the leader contributes only 4% to the stretch property! Also consider using no leader at all. I used to use a leader with braid but with my wife's cooperation, we found that the leader made no discernible difference in our catch rates. Bass accept the sight of three gaudy treble hooks dangling from a lure, so it's not likely that they'd flee from one fine filament ;D Roger Quote
Stringjam Posted June 20, 2007 Posted June 20, 2007 Oh yeah, and congrats on the new rod and reel! Bet you're itching to use 'em huh? How long of a leader would be good? I was kinda looking for the same info. What's average length for a leader, and with the knot, you don't reel it into the first eye do you? I usually go from 6' to 8' or so - - - a well tied Albright or blood knot makes a very tidy little connection, and it will barely be noticed going through the guides. I used a uni to uni knot. I put 2ft but I'll trim it down a bit. BTW.....that was 6 to 8 feet.......just in case of misunderstanding. It's just personal preference. I fish some water with up to 20' visibility, and I have experienced some instant feedback from the fish concerning line shyness. There are simply situations that the braid's visibility deterred strikes.......I've been fishing with this stuff since before SpiderWire even hit the shelves at BPS, and that has just been my personal experience in high pressure/high clarity conditions. Your mileage may vary. Quote
LAO162 Posted June 20, 2007 Posted June 20, 2007 Congrats on the new setup I've been enjoying mine this spring. Quote
surfer Posted June 21, 2007 Posted June 21, 2007 I just remember a trip to Garcia Reservoir back in January that consolidated my belief in Floro. Bait: live shiners Conditions: Cold and windy after a strong cold front. Water: clear Bite: stubborn My Braid w/ 3ft Floro leader: 4 bass His mono with no leader: 0 bass I am sold that mono can make the difference in some cases. I have also never heard that it deters bites in any cases. How will you predetermine when it will and it won't help? You won't. So always use it. Quote
Juskikn Posted June 21, 2007 Posted June 21, 2007 I use 20lb power pro on my spinning gear with about 3ft of fluoro leader tied up with a uni to uni. I have tired different knots and found the uni -uni to be the strongest as long as it is tied correctly. I use it for bass and saltwater it works great! Quote
captbob Posted June 23, 2007 Posted June 23, 2007 Fluoro is a must if you want max advantage. Never have your knot chaffing in the guides, this takes 15-20' of leader, remember that knot is the weakest point in your line and when the fish is at the side of the boat ready to land you want the knot on the reel plus several wraps over it. On a spinning reel knot should lay at the back of the spool so line going off at the cast does not hit it. If you want to fish top-waters and not have the leader sink the fly fishing floating line dressing will float it, get the kit with the cleaning pad. Quote
CyBasser Posted June 23, 2007 Posted June 23, 2007 It really depends on what you need the leader for. At the reservoirs I regularly fish line visibility is not a factor. I tie all lures direct to braid, except when I'm fishing soft plastics. If I want to fish soft plastics I will tie a 15" leader of 20lb mono (I might use 20lb fluoro only in the very rare occasions that I encounter really clear water). My main reason for attaching the leader is that is far easier with mono or fluoro to change quickly bullet weights (or peg / unpeg them as required) as braid tends to break apart at the very end and occasionally can be a hussle to thread it through the tiny holes of the bullets, and I use about 15" which allows me to change the lure several times before it becomes too short (I change the leader when it gets smaller than 6" or so)... Other than this reason, I usually tie the lures direct to braid and have had no problems with it... Quote
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