Reelmech - Rod Repair or Trash?

[noxpertjim]

David, I have a rod that requires repair, but I see on your site you require walk-in service for rods.  I was wondering what you would suggest for an adequate repair in this situation, if any.

The reel seat lock (?) has cracked and been repaired with glue and some slight melting, only to crack again.  The photo shows the area involved (I can get a better photo later if needed).  Is this something that can be repaired properly or replaced, or does this look like a dead rod?  If it can be repaired or replaced, what should I expect to pay for either option?  For reference, the rod is a Team Daiwa S-B 6'3" topwater model.

Your professional opinion is appreciated.  Thanks for the great service earlier this year on my Chronarch SF, too!

[Guest DavidGreen]

Jim,

The only way that break could be repaired the right way would be to remove all guides and replace the hooded forgrip, they are available.

I don't know how old the rod, is but I would contact Daiwa and query them as to what action you should take, to either replace the rod, or have them repair it.

The reason I do only walk-ins is that it runs around 17.00 to ship a rod to me, then the repair charges and then shipping back, and many times it just isn't worth the money.

Thanks.

Tight Lines!!!

[flechero]

Jim,

I have fixed a couple reel seats with an epoxy called "Plastic Welder" that is available at Lowe's (I think).  If you can open the crack just enough to get the epoxy inside (without breaking the collar), it will most likely hold.  This stuff will adhere to most anything that resembles plastic, nylon, any of the poly materials and some other stuff... I have been 100% with it so far.  

Certainly worth the $3 cost of the epoxy to try and save the rod.  If that doesn't work you can still have the rod rebuilt as ReelMech suggested.

[Guest DavidGreen]

I have heard of that stuff.

But I would warn now if you do try it, that you don't want any to get on the threads..

Good Luck..

Tight Lines!!!

[noxpertjim]

I know a certain person who's going to Lowe's tonight....!  Seriously, you're right.  It is worth a shot one last time.  I talked to Daiwa yesterday; they want the rod sent in to determine what can be done.  What is there to lose when it is already broken?  Nothing.  I can still send it in.  Speaking of which, does anyone have experience with sending rods back to Daiwa for repair?  Curious to hear about any experience, good, bad or expensive.  I'm trying to come to grips with the fact that the rod was $120 new 3 or 4 years ago and it may cost that much or more to fix it.  Seems dumb, but when you've found that one rod that speaks to you....

I'll watch the threads.  I think if I wrapped them with aluminum foil underneath the foregrip and up the shaft I could safely apply the compound.  I can tighten it down to get the crack to open up some without fear of a full split and apply the goop, then back it off to allow it to pull together.  

If it works, I'll have a green-handle TD-S rod for sale stat.  Count on that.

Thanks to you both for the insight and advice.  I really appreciate it.

[flechero]

But I would warn now if you do try it, that you don't want any to get on the threads..

 That would be an "ender" for sure!!

[Guest DavidGreen]

I would remove the foregrip altogether (should be able to unscrew it and move it forward onto the rod blank away from the threads), and then try to find a way to pry the break open slightly to apply the welder.

Only if I couldn't get the foregrip away from the threads would I even consider trying to wrap them, and do the job.

Good Luck...

Tight Lines!!!  

[fish-fighting-illini]

If you can't move the grip, rather than wrap the threads you might consider a small amount of some brg grease or poss oil. That is what we used in the motor repair industry to keep flanges from having varnish stick to them or nameplates, holes etc. You could put it on with a tooth brush or a too pick.

Just a thought.